Beyond Pho

We were fortunate enough to host a lovely cooking class teacher from Hanoi, Diep Le To, recently at In Good Taste. She taught a Vietnamese cooking class entitled "Beyond Pho". Mary Jo, Diep's friend, lives in Portland and it was she who arranged this amazing evening. Amelia Hard and Allison Bader were Diep's local chef buddies, and they organized everything from the shopping to the prep and help with the cooking.

Diep's stories of food and cooking in Vietnam were fascinating. She talked about the Yin and Yang of cooking. The Yin (female) is dark and represents things low down or underneath the water (such as fish). The Yang (male) represents the sun and it is bright. All their cooking, especially in the North of Vietnam, is balanced by the Yin and the Yang. When cooking, not only are the flavors balanced, so are the colours and appearance. As Diep told us: "In Vietnam, we cook with the tongue and the eye".

Diep also said that "Cooking is how you show your family your love". What a wonderful thought. We were totally captivated.

During the class, Diep also taught us about the spices of Vietnam, including the wondrous Saigon cinnamon. We do sell it but only in ground form; Diep brought us the raw bark and it was amazing.

At the end of the class, Diep sang us a song about her country. You can read the words of the song here. She provided us with the Vietnamese words and the English translation.

This was certainly an evening we will cherish for a long time.

-Barbara

Another connection to home- Wine and Food with Chef John Ash

As much as I've loved my culinary classes, and all the cooking we've done, the 9 week introduction is over after exams. (The week looms in front of me…. Report on that to follow shortly). Beginning on Monday, we will be in Wine Studies, which is the initial reason I wanted to come to Greystone. The class will be an intensive course on all things related to wine, including food and wine pairings. The curriculum for the class was designed in part by John Ash, who was a favorite faculty member in the wine studies program here at Greystone in the 1990s. Chef Ash has an extensive background in food, wine, and California cuisine, and has left a legacy around the valley. I regret that I won't get to take a class from him myself, but I expect a full report on the wonderful class he will teach at In Good Taste on September 29. I wish I could be there! Luckily, I'll be following a similar class at the origin of those delicious recipes here in Napa.

Don't miss this opportunity to "travel" to Napa !

-Josie

Flourless Chocolate Cake

The recipe yields 6 cakes, which should probably be cut into eight slices each. In my world, each cake would be cut into 3 slices each if I had my way. (Luckily most chocolate cakes are pre-portioned).

I love chocolate. That said, this cake is the quintessential flourless chocolate cake- chocolate, butter, eggs and sugar. It is completely unadulterated by other flavors, ingredients or decoration. I make flourless chocolate cake year round: in the summer, I serve it with lightly whipped, unsweetened whipped cream and raspberries. In the winter, it is perfect with powdered sugar, a bit of spiced whipped cream, and a nice shot of espresso.

When I was growing up, my favorite restaurant had the most amazing dessert selection. (They doubled as a wedding cake bakery). I would go there for special occasions- birthdays, anniversaries, graduation, prom, etc- and order the same thing every time. The layered, flourless chocolate cake is rich beyond belief: four layers of flourless chocolate cake, sandwiched with dark chocolate ganache. I would savor it, knowing I’d have to wait until the next big event to have another slice.

After I moved away from Seattle, my best friend (who had frequently witnessed me devouring the cake), would bring me a piece every time he visited. The cake was unbeatable. The week that I moved to Las Vegas, a whole flourless chocolate cake, packed in a refrigerated box, arrived on my doorstep as a housewarming gift.

This cake is special to me: both for the fond memories created by the events surrounding it, and the gifts of friendship that brought it to me. Plus, I just love chocolate.

-Josie

Josie's Chocolate Cake, adapted

San Francisco Farmer’s Market

Photo courtesy of Rizzo Studios

We took the most amazing field trip to the San Francisco market yesterday! I loved it, and bought so many delightful and unusual things. It was the perfect escape from the daily grind of cooking from dawn to dusk, studying and homework.

At the market, I was immediately struck by nostalgia: it was so Portland. All the people perusing the stalls and aisles, eyes wide with wonder, baskets full (or close to it), hands reaching for more. Children with sticky fingers, big smiles, and a new appreciation for a fresh peach, parents pleased with the variety and appearance of all the goods. I miss home! As much as I loved being there, I think that the Portland Farmer's Market on Saturdays is more energetic, full of conviviality and community. Portland is such a friendly city, where shopping is a social activity as much as it is a necessity. People go to the market with an agenda- meet friends, find inspiration, have lunch, gather for the evening soiree. You select what appeals to you, plan your menu from there, stop for a bottle of delicious wine at any of the local shops (boy do I miss Oregon Pinot! Napa has good wine, but their Pinots can't compare..... :-) ), and wait for your guests to arrive. I love the connection between food, friends, family and the farm. It's found worldwide, but (in my biased opinion) Portland has some of the best to offer. Keep shopping, eating and cooking.

-Josie

"From Earth to Table" with John Ash

John Ash was one of Food and Wine Magazines “hottest new chefs” in 1985. Since then, he founded a restaurant, John Ash and Company, was the culinary director for Fetzer Vineyards, and teaches wine classes at CIA Greystone (my school!). Although I haven’t had the pleasure of taking a wine class from him yet (we don’t do wine until November), I did have the opportunity to go to his restaurant for lunch and tour the store in Santa Rosa. It was a lovely afternoon, filled with delicious food and wine (amazing California cuisine- Thai style mussels, a perfectly crisp crostini, glazed salmon…. We enjoyed ourselves).

The good news is that John Ash will be a guest chef at In Good Taste on Saturday, September 29 at 6:30 pm. He’ll be demonstrating recipes from his book that showcase his creative California cuisine. While I was at the restaurant, I mentioned that I had first discovered Chef Ash at In Good Taste. The hostess knew exactly what I was talking about, and I was so proud to say that I was a part of the wonderful community that makes up the store and cooking school. :-) It almost made me feel at home.

Don’t miss the opportunity to meet John Ash and learn about his food, company and cooking style. It will be an evening to savor!
- Josie

Josie's Back!!!

Back at last! It has been an interesting two months, with high points, low points, and somewhere in between. I am about to begin my third session (called “blocks”) at the Culinary Institute of America, in St. Helena, CA. And honestly, I love it. My family and friends are dubious of my new attitude (but relieved); I have to admit that after the first week I was ready to leave. It was a rough introduction, I struggled, managed to find my way, and have fallen in love with Napa and the life of a chef (such that I am).
Rather than revisiting my failures in the kitchen, I want to share one of my successes.
At some point, I stopped being afraid of messing up, and gave it everything I could. I tried to have fun, be a good team player, and forgot about the rest. It worked.
The assignment was Truite aux Almands- a whole trout with almonds, haricot verts, and a brown butter sauce. We had a set time to prepare it, along with many other things. I finished my dish on time, plated it, garnished it, and presented it to the chef for evaluation.
She took a little bite of the flaky white fish bathed in a nutty brown butter sauce. She chewed, swallowed, and nodded. She took a bigger bite of the fish, swirling it in the pool of almonds. She nodded again, picked up a green bean and chewed thoughtfully.
“Delicious. Restaurant quality food. Well done Josie.”
Elation! Finally! After so many failures! But I learned to savor the successes; those are what matters- no one will remember the over salted pot roast, overcooked green beans or sour vinaigrette. They will remember your stunning salmon soufflé, omelet roulade, seven layer torte, or brioche sweet rolls. So don’t be afraid to open your heart and just cook. That’s my kitchen philosophy, and it seems to be working. :-)
-Josie

Vindalho

Last night, David Anderson of Vindalho taught a class at In Good Taste. As all my friends know, I love Indian food so I was naturally the first person to sign up for the class. We had a great group of people. Everyone in the group loves Indian food; they love to travel and were happy to share their experiences with everyone else.

David did a great job. He shared his passion for the food of India and it's culture, and he told us lots of stories about his time in India. We all felt like we were on our own culinary adventure to the Goan region of India. His food was bright and vivid, and oh so tasty!

Some of the things we learned included the following:

1. How to crack a fresh coconut (Hit the coconut with the back of a sturdy knife, all the way around the "equator" of the coconut, until the liquid pours out and the husk is cracked open).
   
2. The easiest way to remove the white flesh of the coconut is to bake the two halves inverted on a baking sheet (face down) for 15 – 20 minutes at 375°F.
   
3. Masala means "spice mixture".
   
4. "Garam" means "Warm" so garam masala means "warming spice mixture"
   
5. Use a coffee grinder to grind spices. Most chefs have two: one for coffee and one for spices.
   
6. Clean the spice grinder by putting some raw rice in the container and grinding it.
   
7. David finds that the Arbol chillies are the closest to the chilies he had in Goa.
   
8. He uses the Maryhill peaches from Washington to make his peach chutney as they are firm and easy to peel.
   
9. David served a dish of shredded beans which he cut in the Cuisinart with the slicing disk. It was so easy and so quick.
   

The highlight of the class was the Mussels in the most tantalizing curry sauce. David told us that the sauce works equally well for shrimp or other seafood. I can't wait for David's next class.

My Newest Toy

By “toy”, I mean “necessary kitchen tool.” (I always need another one). Last week, I finally got a kitchen torch. I've been eyeing it- every time I walk through the store, I see it sitting there and I start craving Crème Brulée. The culinary torch is primarily used for creating that perfect crunchy crust that makes Crème Brulée so special. While the juxtaposition of crackly sugar crust and an unctuous vanilla custard is enough for me to rationalize such a purchase, it is nice to know that Crème Brulée isn’t the only use for such a tool. It can also be used for browning meringues, glazing fruit tarts, baked Alaska, and working with sugar. The best part is that the torch is easy to use, doesn’t heat the custard itself, and requires very little planning. (no waiting for the broiler to preheat). It’s so easy and mess free, and Crème Brulée is so delicious. Now I have no excuse not to make it.
-Josie

Josie's Creme Brulee

One Recipe Leads to Another

After shopping at the farmer’s market on Saturday, and making Benjamin Bettinger’s Preserved Lemons last week, I was inspired to create this simple dish. (This often happens to me. I make one thing, then get an idea for another, and pretty soon.... the refrigerator is full and I have to call some friends to help me eat all of my creations.) Lemon and mint are a classic combination. The recipe highlights the delicate texture of the new potatoes, pungent flavor of the preserved lemon, and bright clean herbs from the farmer’s market. You can make the vinaigrette ahead of time, as well as the preserved lemons, and then toss it all together at the end. Serve it warm, as a side dish to grilled meat, or chilled as a salad for part of a summertime buffet. The important thing is to use baby potatoes that are small and uniform in size. If you can’t find the specified potatoes, you can always make this with larger red potatoes, cut into smaller pieces.

With the expectation of the hot weather this week, the chilled potato salad would be perfect for lunch. Now all I need is a glass of iced tea. If you decide to go for wine instead, a Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc would work nicely with the lemons.

Josie's New Potato Salad with Preserved Lemons and Mint

Inspiration: From chefs, the market and the season

Have I mentioned that I love my job? I work in a creative, exciting, food-oriented atmosphere; I get to cook, and then write about cooking. What's not to like? The other benefit to working here is that I get the chance to meet people that I admire,that inspire me to be a better chef, and that have interests similar to mine.

This week, I had the great fortune to interview Benjamin Bettinger, the chef de cuisine at Paley's Place. It was a wonderful interview; Chef Ben was so personable and kind! He was very generous with his time, and more than happy to answer my questions. I was so entertained by our conversation that I didn't want to leave. I was immediately impressed with his passion for cooking and his amazing knowledge of food. It was hard not to see the passion; his descriptions of ingredients, shopping and cooking were incredibly vivid. I could sense his excitement when he talked about the upcoming peach harvest, and the soon- to- arrive whole pig at Paley's next week. It's so much fun for me to talk to people that find as much joy in shopping for food as I do. His energy inspired me to go to the market right away and create some fabulous seasonal dish. (Or make dinner reservations at Paley's!)

The good news is that Benjamin will be back to teach another class at In Good Taste in the fall. I can't wait!

To read the full interview with Chef Bettinger, click here.

-Josie

Eat Local, Eat Well

Lately, I’ve had no problem sticking to the “eat local challenge.” It’s so easy, it’s almost hard. In fact, the most difficult part of grocery shopping lately is trying not to buy too much. There’s so much wonderful produce to choose from! Going to the farmer’s market is almost overwhelming; there are mounds of scarlet colored cherries, baskets of multicolored heirloom tomatoes, bright green snap peas, sweet onions, luscious plums, and juicy berries. Everything in the market is flavorful on its own, and hardly needs anything to transform it into a delicious meal. One of my favorite summer meals showcases all of the delightful goodies that I bought. It’s the perfect end for a day of shopping at the farmers market. I assemble a salad sliced tomatoes, shredded basil and crumbled goat cheese, all drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. I finish it with fleur de sel. Then, I serve grilled burgers with smoked bacon and grilled sweet onion, and for dessert, simple shortcake with fresh berries and lots of whipped cream. If only summer would last forever…
-Josie

What's the worst that can happen....

"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again." Everyone makes mistakes, has cooking disasters, and is intimidated by something in the kitchen. (Even those of us who have been to cooking school.) Pastry- no problem. Fish- no worries. Shellfish..... I get nervous. Not because I don't eat it frequently (it's always on my menus), but because I'm constantly afraid I'll overcook it. Too many times, I haven't cleaned the clams thoroughly enough and end up with a bowl of sand, or I overcook those delicate pieces of squid to the point where they are tennis shoe quality rubber. It's frustrating, and intimidating. But the other day, I was craving mussels to go with the lovely Abacela Rosé we just got at the store. I was bound and determined to make a perfect steamed platter of mussels. Because she always has a good answer (and is both knowledgeable and patient with me), I asked Cheryl for some advice. Of course, she knew what to do. She gave me some pointers, showed me again how to clean them properly, and sent me on my way.

Once I started cleaning them, it wasn't so hard. I reminded myself of what I'd learned reading James Beard, and what Cheryl had told me, and the recipe went find. I felt so comfortable that I even made a few of my own additions. The finished product was delicious- fragrant, redolent of garlic, with a silky butter finish. Mmmmmm….

So remember- don't let intimidating ingredients/recipes/menus stop you from trying something new. The worst possible scenario? You have to start over or order a pizza. But no matter what, you'll learn something.

-Josie

Simply Steamed Mussels

Our Philosophy

I watched another episode of the Next Food Network Star the other night. Each of the contestants was asked for their "culinary philosophy." That started me thinking..... a lot of the stories and recipes included on this blog follow the "culinary philosophy" of In Good Taste. Our goals at the cooking school, and with this blog, are to help foodies indulge in their culinary fantasies; to help cooks be successful with recipes; to encourage use of local products and ingredients; and, to generally explore the great world of food and cooking. There are excellent websites for restaurant reviews, informative websites for shopping in the Pearl, and extensive websites for ingredients, cookbooks and cookware. We want only to bring you the best information and tips that will enhance your cooking adventures.

“To invite people to dine with us is to make ourselves responsible for their well-being for as long as they are under our roofs.”
Brillat-Savarin

-Josie

Ratatouille....

…is one of my favorite dishes. I love it, mostly because it blends together some of my favorite ingredients in a culinary symphony. Eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, onion, sometimes red bell pepper (if I have one), and fresh herbs are combined in a sort of vegetable stew. It is good warm, room temperature, and even cold, in a sandwich filling or as part of an antipasto spread. I use it for filling omelets, combined with mozzarella, over pasta with feta, or plain as a side dish for sautéed chicken.

There are variations of the dish throughout the Mediterranean. But essentially, it is simply a ragout of sautéed vegetables. The flavorings can be varied to suit your preferences. Add or omit various seasonal vegetables as you see fit. I almost always deglaze the pan with white wine after I sauté the onions, but I’ve also used balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar and red wine with equal success. I like to use fresh basil and oregano to finish the dish- dried herbs will also work (just add them earlier on in the preparation to allow the flavors to develop).

There are many ways to go about making ratatouille. One begins by sautéing onions, then adding sliced eggplant and zucchini, followed by the tomatoes. That will work wonderfully, and really doesn’t take very long at all. If you’d like a deeper, more “oven roasted flavor”, or want to prepare this ahead of time, after you finish with the tomatoes and herbs, turn the mixture into a baking dish that has been coated with olive oil. Bake it for 15-30 minutes, (covered, to prevent moisture loss). An other method is more time consuming and involved, but creates deeper, caramelized undertones that I think are worth the extra trouble. Sauté the onion, eggplant, and zucchini separate. Then combine them together in a large sauce pan, deglaze with wine or vinegar and add the tomatoes and herbs that way.

Whichever way you go, make sure you season well with salt and pepper early on, and continue to taste as you go.

Josie's Efficient Ratatouille

-Josie

Little Jar, Big Flavor

When it comes to desserts, people usually (although not always) fall into categories; those who love chocolate, and those who like everything else. Of course there are overlapping situations, but I’ve found that there’s a loyalty in most people’s palates. For me- I’m on the chocolate side of the fence. If I have dessert, it’s most likely going to be something sinfully dark and rich, like a chocolate pave. In the last year or so, I’ve been experimenting a lot with “weird” chocolates in my cooking. For example, I’ve begun adding interesting spices to all chocolate cookies, crystallized ginger, black pepper, unusual liqueurs, etc.

The other day, I found new inspiration for my chocolate experiments: Controne Hot Pepper. The new spice came into the store just the other day. It has a bright flavor and lingering heat that is unique and powerful. I liked the intensity, but wasn’t reduced to tears by it.

By the end of summer, there will be six dessert-focused restaurants opening in New York City. Three of them have unique dessert offerings, including a spicy chocolate soufflé with chili pepper. I decide to try my own version, using the controne pepper. The heat is subtle, and doesn’t kick in until after you’ve savored the luscious chocolate. This recipe was particularly good with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, which cooled the tongue without smothering the flavors.

The chocolate soufflé was good enough to save the pepper for exclusive use, but I’ve also tried it in vinaigrettes, over pasta, with grains, on chicken (I’m imagining it in a spice rub on grilled pork chops right now…..). It is particularly good in a dressing for a chickpea salad with roasted red peppers. And because it’s such a versatile treat, there’s no reason not to stock up.
-Josie

Smokin’ hot

Smokin’ hot

It's Grilling Season. It started around Memorial Day (I think that that's the official kick off day), and will go strong until Labor Day. After that, the die-hard grilling fans will hover around the barbecue, wearing heavy coats and shivering, (but will be too stubborn to admit that they are cold). As much as I like grilling and the flavor of grilled food, I think that smoking is more unique and has a bigger impact. I love smoked chicken, smoked peppers, smoky bacon, smoked salmon...... The technique produces an intense flavor that adds depth to ordinary recipes, creates dimension where there is none, and generally perks up boring food. Liquid smoke just doesn’t make the cut in terms of authentic smokey flavor. To me, it tastes plastic-y and nothing like the earthy character, hearty flavor and great texture that well- smoked food has. What can you do to achieve that flavor profile if you don't have much kitchen/patio space, an arsenal of kitchen tools, or refuse to use "smoke-in-a-bottle"? The answer - the new Stove-top Kettle Smoke and Wood Roaster. The adorable red smokers arrived at In Good Taste today, much to my delight. The compact, circular kettle resembles a large covered pot, with a place for an easy- to -read thermometer right on top. Creating perfectly smoked food is easy- just spread the wood chips evenly over the bottom of the smoking pan, position the drip pan on top of the wood chips (which are included, by the way) and add water or broth, place the grill rack with food onto the smoking pan, and put the domed kettle lid onto the smoking pan. Then, place the smoker onto a stove top burner and set it to medium heat. You can also use it outside on the grill. Use the thermometer to adjust the burner to proper smoking temperature. That's it. You can smoke up to five pounds of food with this compact tool, but it's small and light enough for me to move around easily. I can definitely picture myself making a tasty smoked chicken (emulating the perfect smoked chicken from Tom Hurley's recent grilling class) and a platter of smoked salmon. Smoking beats grilling any day- especially in the winter!
-Josie

Food TV Challenge Part 2

In the second episode of the Next Food Network Star that I watched, the challenge was titled, “NBA Chocolate Challenge”. The goal was to design a stadium oriented snack that would signify the contestant’s individual style, impress sports fans, and be appropriate for a mid game treat. The winning recipe was a delicious sounding bacon-wrapped mushroom dish. As good as that sounded, I know that I’m more often than not going to choose something that combines the best of both worlds- sweet and salty. But for this challenge, I had chocolate on the brain (perhaps the title was to blame?). The Bittersweet Truffled Almonds fit the stadium bill- they are easy to make, easy to eat (unlike say, a chili cheese dog, which just screams “Tide Bleach Pen” to someone like me) and are unavoidably good.
-Josie

Bittersweet Truffled Almonds

12 oz semisweet chocolate
6 tablespoons butter
2 cups large almonds; blanched, and whole
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

In a small but heavy saucepan melt the chocolate and the butter, stirring constantly until blended and smooth. Remove from heat. Line a cookie sheet with wax paper. Dip the wide end of the almond into the chocolate mixture and place on the prepared cookie sheet. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set the chocolate. When cold and hardened, dust with cocoa powder.

Following the Food TV Star Search

I have a confession- I watch reality food TV. It's ironic, because I rarely watch TV anyway, and I never watch reality TV. But with the first season of Top Chef, I was hooked. Suddenly, I found myself planning my week around the Wednesday night episode. When the season ended, I was a bit saddened. What would I do with all that extra time? (Easy- cook!) My chef friends got into the show too, and we would have weekly Top Chef Challenges. Whatever the challenge of the week was, we would repeat it, have a cook off, and then eat.
It's not convenient to watch Top Chef this season, but I've started watching the Next Food Network Star instead. For personal entertainment, I'm going to cook along with the show. The first night challenge was a super easy grilling recipe, that explained the contestant's culinary point of view. I created the Grilled Halibut with Watermelon Salsa and Cyprus Black Sea Salt. I think that it shows my culinary point of view because I like to use local, organic and sustainable products whenever possible, highlight the unique qualities of each ingredient, and add a little bit of an unusual twist. Stay tuned for my response to next week's challenge!
-Josie

The Daughter of a Fisherman

My father is many things; brilliant, generous, kind, ethical, respected, influential…
of all the people that have influenced my life, perhaps my father has left the biggest impression. I've always looked up to him, admired and adored him, and now that I am older, we are becoming friends as well as father and daughter.

Some of my fondest memories with my dad are (ironically), of fishing. His passion for fishing supersedes his passion for all other hobbies. Although I don’t particularly love to fish, I do love to eat the rewards, and I love to be with my dad. As a kid, I was a part of most of the (weekly) fishing trips on the ocean or the river. He taught me how to fish, from baiting the hook to casting a spin real to the art of casting a fly rod. I wouldn't say that I’m an accomplished fisherman, but I can hold my own on a boat when necessary. My role most of the time was to wield the net while he pulled in the prize catch. Once the fish was in the boat, we’d measure them, to ensure that the fish were legal, ice them down, and head in to the marina. The next lesson in the world of fishing was how to clean the fish. My dad does keep his catch (as opposed to throwing it back) but he is extremely respectful of the fish. I learned a deep reverence for the earth and ocean from him. To put it simply, if you kill it, you must clean and eat it with respect, deference and purpose. I think that catching, cleaning and cooking the fish myself, from a young age, also showed me the connection between the earth and my food. I understood where the food came from, and that I was lucky to have it.
I wish there was more time to fish with him now. Even when we can’t catch the fish together, we still share the catch. My dad is an excellent cook, especially of seafood. His preparation tends to be much more simple than mine (he’s not one to create elaborate sauces, foams or emulsions), but he still listens politely as I give my suggestions. Despite his preference for minimal additions to high quality fish, he has an adventuresome palate and is willing to try most of the things I make. Although we won’t be together this Sunday, I’m going to make Pina Colada Halibut with Pineapple Salsa. I'll serve it with coconut jasmine rice and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc like Mulderbosch, from South Africa.

-Josie

Strawberries

I love strawberries. There's really nothing else that signifies the arrival of summer quite as much as a basketful of sweet strawberries, still warm from the sun. As a little girl, my mom and I would pick strawberries together. I can't say that I was much help in the grand scheme of things (most of what I picked ended up in my mouth rather than in the basket), but we still had fun. I adore strawberry shortcake (and have it for breakfast any chance I get). While I was in Napa, I was trying to get a lot accomplished, while still enjoying the sunshine. At one point, I was half lost and quite frustrated, and stumbled across a small farm stand at the corner of White Cottage road. I pulled up to the stand, which was oddly crowded for being so remote, and surveyed the display. There was much to choose from- nectarines, apricots, green beans... but I was immediately drawn to the strawberries. I bought two baskets, one for after lunch and one to take back to my hotel room for later in the day. Once I got back in the car however, I was overwhelmed by the sweet smell. I gave in, and ate one. It was perfect- juicy, warm, and quintessential summer. I ate another. And another. I was determined not to greedily eat the whole basket, or stain my white shirt. I was unsuccessful on both accounts. I devoured the basket of berries, dripping the red juicy all over my shirt and staining my hands. I felt like I was five years old again, satiated and sticky after a day in the strawberry fields.
-Josie

The Road to Napa is Paved with Good Intentions

Beringer Vineyards

When your career and your passions intersect, there are many benefits. For one thing, you can combine business with pleasure for multi-purpose travel. (While some may look at this as a drawback, I look at it as an excuse to travel more, for business purposes, of course.) I visited Napa Valley last weekend. It was beautiful- more so than I expected, and the vineyards, wineries and landscape were breathtaking. I spent most of my free time eating (always good), and accomplished very little otherwise. I had grandiose plans to buy lovely trinkets for everyone at home, visit every winery on my list, go to the museums in St. Helena, the parks, all of the big restaurants, and the significant stores (like Dean and Deluca). Unfortunately, I only had three days in which to achieve these goals, in addition to the other things I still needed to do. However, I did manage to eat at a few good restaurants, visit a winery or two, and collect tiny souvenirs for friends. I brought back pictures, lavender from COPIA, menus, brochures, and lots of ideas. The good news is that I'll be back soon, and hopefully this time I'll do better at checking things off the To Do list.

-Josie

Riesling Week

In the third annual Riesling week (sponsored by the organization The Wines of Germany), wine lovers can discover (or rediscover) the unique qualities of German Riesling. In participating restaurants in New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas, and Chicago, there will be special food and wine pairings, tasting menus, flights and by-the glass selections. Promotions also include introducing new wines and wineries.

Riesling wines are elegant, and fragrant, and are often reminiscent of peaches or apples.

I’m pretty excited, and plan on hosting my own mini-Riesling week here. Riesling is a great wine for summer; many of them have lower acidity and alcohol content, a light crisp flavor, and complement the lovely seasonal produce we’ve all been looking forward to. Riesling pairs well with goat cheese, salads, and shellfish.

To celebrate, I’m going to start the weekend with a bottle of Argyle Riesling from our cellar here, and to accompany it, I’m going to make a sun dried tomato and Chèvre tart.
-Josie

Sun Dried Tomato and Chevre Tarte

National (insert title here) Day

Everyday it seems, is a national food holiday. If not national, regional. Not that I need inspiration to think about food (it pretty much occupies my thoughts no matter what), but those little nuggets of trivia that come with each new food holiday never cease to give me more ideas. Today, for example, is particularly good in my mind: National Chocolate Ice Cream Day. Mmmmm... two of my favorite things in one cool, creamy combination. In honor of such a special day, I'll be making a dark chocolate ice cream with rum and raisins (it's worth a try). I'll let you know how it goes. And if all else fails, a new ice cream shop is opening just around the corner.....
-Josie

An Evening in Morocco

I love “theme” nights- transforming an evening and meal into a true adventure. Sometimes it works out better than others, but it’s always interesting and fun. I recently sampled lovely Moroccan mustard from Dulcet cuisine that we carry here at the store. The flavor profile is complex- deep undercurrents of curry and cumin. I created recipes and a menu to showcase the mustard. To extend the theme, I set the table with small votive candles, played Moroccan music in the background, and arranged vases with brightly colored flowers around the room. While I cooked, my guests nibbled on fried almonds and marinated olives with orange zest and red peppers.
My menu was simple, flavorful and delicious (based on the happy sounds emanating from them, my guests agreed with my opinion). The dessert was a little intense, but it’s hard to say no to chocolate.

To Drink- A rose like Penner Ash- the sweet finish stands up to spicy flavors

Salad of Arugula, Oranges and Avocado with Honey-Citrus Vinaigrette

Chicken with Moroccan Mustard

Couscous with cinnamon and dried fruit

Chilled Dark Chocolate Mousse with Fresh Strawberry Coulis

To try the chicken recipe, click here. Chicken with Moroccan Mustard

A few suggestions for the chicken recipe:
-If you’d like a smoother sauce, strain it before you serve it. It’s not necessary, but it does give a better presentation.
-You can marinate the chicken in the mustard up to an hour before, for a more intense flavor
-Use a hotel pan or a baking sheet if you don’t have a large glass baking dish
-You can also use a whole chicken, broken down into eight serving pieces. Double the mustard and sauce quantities, and cook the chicken longer, about an hour.

-Josie

Just like Winnie the Pooh

As a child, I was fascinated by bees. My neighbor had a beehive that he would collect honey from. I would watch it cautiously (from a substantial distance), mesmerized by the rhythmic buzzing. This spring, my allergies have caused me to develop a bit of a cough, but I've found that drinking tea with honey and lemon solves the problem. The husband of my friend Nancy (who happens to be a wonderful chef here at In Good Taste) sells honey from his beehives. I bought a huge gar from him. At first glance, it seemed like the jar would last forever. But there's nothing like local honey- its sweet, smooth, slightly floral, and has a color like spun gold. I shared a bit with some of my friends, had a spoonful here and there in my tea, on toast, in sauces and vinaigrette...... (just as is...). There's only a tiny bit left. I'm hoarding it until I can replenish my stash. Each honey tastes slightly different. Nancy's husband's honey is not too sweet (so I can eat more of it.) When I can't get Nancy's honey, or for a bit of variety, I like Queener Fruit Farm Honey (which we carry here at In Good Taste). It is pure, uncooked honey, from Scio, Oregon.
-Josie

Going for Bananas

Recently, Leena Ezekiel taught a wonderful class on Indian Street Foods. I love Indian foods of all kinds, but especially street foods like pakoras and samosas. India has a rich bio-diversity of banana and plantain, and is the largest producer and consumer with estimated production of 16 million tonnes of bananas annually (from http://www.foodreference.com/). India's domestic production of bananas alone exceeds the entire world trade. This neat fact started me thinking about bananas, and with the warm weather this weekend, I cranked up my ice cream maker to make Caramelized Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream. The combination of tropical flavors, hot, gooey bananas and cool, creamy ice cream was perfect for an early summer dessert after a busy day.

Caramelized Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream

For the Love of Shopping (for food)

As per usual, I went to the grocery store last evening. I go most days, partly because I'm terrible at planning ahead, but also because I love to shop for food. I like looking for interesting products, things I need, things I don't. I get ideas, learn new things..... it's like a miniature education. Most of the time, I come away with more than I planned to, but it always gets used eventually.
I rarely talk to other customers, being too engrossed in my own culinary fantasies. When I can, I do chat with the butcher, the fish guy, the baker, the cheese monger etc.
Yesterday, I was perusing the spice aisle, purposely selecting a variety of ingredients for my evening's experiment. Randomly, a man stopped me with a hesitant, "excuse me...?" I turned. I must have looked like I belonged there, because he continued; "Will you please help me find granulated mustard?" Granulated mustard? Why don't I know what that is? It occurred to me he must be following some obscure recipe; I could sense his growing stress and see the furrows in his brow. I pointed to the powdered dry mustard (assuming that's what he meant). He looked more confused. "What about pepper sauce?" I took him to the condiment aisle and showed him the many varieties of hot sauce. He seemed more confused. Finally, I asked him what he was making, hoping I could offer some "sage" advice. He handed me a crumpled recipe for Texas Barbecue Sauce, and asked me to help him find the remaining ingredients. I was so pleased and amused that he was making his own sauce (with that much stress involved, I was surprised he hadn't just grabbed a bottle off the shelf), that I agreed to help right away. (Of course, I was flattered too!) We finished the shopping list and I offered some tips for making and using barbecue sauce (don't add it until the end!). Gratefully, he thanked me, and asked if I had worked there long. I laughed, "No, I just love to shop."
I was so inspired by his dedication that particular recipe that I made my own barbecue sauce- a not quite traditional New Orleans- style, similar to one I used to get at a restaurant in the Garden District.
-Josie

Josie's Nawlin's Style Barbecue Shrimp

Food from a Farmer

Organic, sustainable and locally grown food is becoming more widely available and mainstream (finally!). Environment-, animal- and people- friendly foods are no longer just a trend- they are a chosen way of life. Sustainability has become an daily issue for chefs in regards to purchasing and menu planning; sustainable fish, produce and meat are all finding their way to restaurant tables. Restaurant menus are no longer as simple as "grilled rib-eye with smashed potatoes." Now you'll read, "Grilled Strawberry Mountain Beef Rib Eye with Organic Smashed Potatoes and Viridian Farms Greens." Local food isn't shipped across the country (or the world). It doesn't waste energy resources in transportation, and connects people to the earth. And when you buy local, you get to talk to the people that raised your food. I spent three hours at a farmer's market in the valley this weekend. It was wonderful. I met farmers, ranchers and artisan producers, sampled their yummy foods and bought two (reusable, cloth!) bags full of food. To see the people that grew those greens, and shake hands with the producers of the goat cheese I bought, was touching. I loved hearing their stories about growing food, seeing their pride in their products, and knowing that my dinner came from just down the road.
-Josie

All About Grilling

Memorial Day seems to be the official opening of Grilling Season. Everyone I know had something on the grill this weekend, whether is was steaks, burgers, chickenor bratwurst. As much as I like grilling, I don't seem to do very much of it (mostly because I don't have my own grill at the moment) and because there's always a grilling "expert" around that does it for me. But, I've learned enough through watching or doing to offer a few suggestions for better barbecue.
-Make sure to clean the grill with a wire brush before you start
-Use tongs instead of a meat fork- when you pierce the meat, you lose those precious juices
-Add the sauces at the end of cooking time- adding barbecue sauce too early causes it to burn, which is not very tasty
-If you're unsure about doneness, use a meat thermometer, and don't forget that meat will continue to cook after you take it off the heat (that means if you want it to be 150 degrees F, pull it from the heat when it's 145 F)
-Let the meat rest for about five minutes before you cut into it to let the juices settle and redistribute
-Try new flavors and combinations, including types of burgers, condiments and breads
I like all burgers- lamb burgers in pitas with tatziki sauce, chicken burgers with chipotle aioli and sliced avocado, and of course, the classic burger. Last weekend, I made a version of the All American BLT Burger. I started by seasoning the hamburger with Worcestershire sauce and minced onion. I grilled it over medium high heat, and just as it finished cooking, I grilled thick wedges of sourdough bread. I added some chopped chives to a little bit of mayonnaise, assembled the burgers; bread, mayo, crisp romaine lettuce, thick, juicy tomatoes, cooked artisan smoked bacon, the burger patty, and the top piece of bread. The weight of the burger held the bacon and vegetables in place, so that it wasn't such a challenge to eat. Mmmmmmm.....
-Josie

Chef Debates

Chefs, like most people, have firm opinions about the way things should work. There are right and wrong ways to do everything. Classic questions arise, and spark great discussion over potential answers. A few examples;
Should you season your meat before or after cooking it? Butter or shortening for pastry? Fresh herbs or dried? The last one rarely finds support in the “dried” corner; most chefs will agree that fresh herbs and spices are always better. And, most of the time, I’m of that mindset too. However, in a few cases, the dried version is more appropriate and fits the recipe better. One example is ginger. In savory recipes, where finely chopped ginger is a key ingredient, the fresh product is necessary. I would never think of adding powdered ginger to a stir fry. But when it comes to my ginger cookies, powdered ginger is ideal. The spices add a novel twist to thick, chewy chocolate chip cookies.

Crystallized ginger is also known as candied ginger; fresh ginger pieces are simmered in syrup until they are tender and then are drained and coated with granulated sugar.
Make sure your spices are fresh though- even if you don’t grind your own cinnamon or nutmeg (which is preferably), check the expiration date. Spices lose their flavor after a few months.
-Josie
Ginger Chocolate Chip Gems

Almost Pad Thai from the Pantry

You've heard it a million times- a well stocked pantry is the key to creating flavorful, enticing meals at home. With a couple of basic staples, some interesting items, condiments, and international ingredients, you can put together just about any dish you can imagine. Obviously, pasta is a great (and fairly economical) choice for quick cook meals. Pasta is filling, elegant, and comforting all at the same time. It can range from classic Italian to Thai to Chinese to American- or even a medley. Use your imagination and what's on hand. Just boil water, get a fork, and prepare to feast..... (Don't forget to pour a glass of wine- the 2005 Anne Amie Riesling from the Willamette Valley would go particularly well. )
Last night, for example, I was in the mood for Thai food. I arrived home late (as per usual) in a hungry/tired/frazzled state. After working with food all day, the last thing I wanted to do was spend hours preparing something elaborate for just me. I did a quick survey of my pantry and refrigerator: some cilantro, scallions, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, brown sugar and angel hair pasta. I even found some coconut milk leftover from a previous cooking experiment. Then the wheels started turning.....I was envisioning a version of pad Thai (one of my favorites). Making do with what I had, I made a quick pan sauce with the coconut milk, soy sauce, curry paste and chili paste. Once I boiled the noodles, it was just a matter of tossing it all together. I was so pleased at how simple, quick and fun it had been to make! Now if only cleaning up was as easy and fun. :-)
-Josie

Not Quite Pad Thai Noodles

The Great American Bake Sale

Today, May 19th, Share our Strength begins the fourth annual Great American Bake Sale. The goal this year is to raise $1 million dollars to support education about nutrition, plus school and summer meal programs. To learn how to participate or to host a bake sale, go to http://www.greatamericanbakesale.org/. I'm excited, because now I have an excuse to buy new cake pans and that lovely Guittard chocolate I've been longing for....
-Josie

Cooking is Fun (and yummy)

At least it is supposed to be. It stops being fun when there is to much pressure, too many rules, and too much stress. While reading Jacques Pepin's new book the other day, I learned a lot about him personally. He has accomplished many things in his life, from working around the world in every position imaginable, to washing dishes, to baking bread, and running world class restaurants. I always imagined that he would be very formal in the kitchen, requiring specific techniques and the utmost seriousness. Coincidentally, I saw a TV show where he was cooking with the host. The host was very concerned about formalities- the right dishes, serving spoons, food not touching, not tasting the product, details of ingredients.... Jacques just laughed and poured himself a glass of wine. With one utensil, he spooned the food onto a plate, tasting the sauce as he went and adjusting it with salt and pepper. The plate was beautiful- artfully arrange, but simple. He smiled and said, "there, you see- you should just enjoy yourself. " I wholeheartedly agree.
Play in the kitchen; change the ingredients, technique or style. The best recipes come from experimentation. Make something interesting, season as you go, adjust as necessary, and remember- you can always start over.
-Josie

Shrimp Sauté with Basil and Sambuca

Lesson of the Day Part II- even the pros make mistakes

Although I would hardly consider myself a pro, I generally think of myself as being competent in the kitchen. After all, I work with food for a living! But every now and then, I do something silly that reminds me that every day is an opportunity to learn something (even if it means learning from a mistake). The other night, I was making a Cuban black bean soup. Everything was fine, until I broke a basic kitchen rule- I added my spices to the pot right from the container. In cooking school, I was taught that whenever you add ingredients to a recipe, it’s always a good idea to measure out a certain amount (even if that amount happens to be “some”) and then add it to the rest of the recipe; lest you add more than you need. The same goes for adding eggs- crack them into a bowl rather than into your cake mix, to prevent the unwanted addition of egg shells. With my soup, I was in a rush when it was time to add the cumin (a pungent spice on its own). I shook the jar over the pot. The lid flew off. The entire contents of the jar spread across the top of the soup pot in a thick brown blanket. I attempted to salvage the soup by skimming off the patina of spices, but it had formed a lumpy paste and could not be extracted. I tasted, hopeful. Ick. I added more stock to thin it out. No change. Sigh. Alas, my soup was ruined. I chalked it up to a kitchen lesson and made a sandwich.
Feeling sorry for myself, I recounted the story for Ryan. He confessed that he too, takes kitchen shortcuts occasionally and faces the consequences. Recently, he shared, he learned that it's dangerous to add Tabasco without checking that the stopper is on tight. Even worse than the mistake of painfully hot food- cutting his finger after neglecting to put a wet towel under a cutting board to keep it from sliding (ouch!). So the Lesson of the Day is- be careful when you cut corners in the kitchen!
-Josie

Spice of the Year

Food and Wine magazine always has ideas on how to become a well traveled gourmet. Food and traveling are two of my favorite things, and it’s hard to beat the combination. In a recent issue of the magazine, there was an article about the best new products for the peripatetic epicurean. Including in the list was the spice of the year- Grains of Paradise, as melegueta pepper, Guinea grains, Guinea pepper and alligator pepper.
The spice is native to West Africa and is related to cardamom. In the past, it was an important spice in commerce, especially around the 14th and 15th centuries. Today, it is not used much outside of West and North Africa; in fact, it is one of the hardest spices to find. Imagine a cross between pepper, ginger and cardamom, Grains of Paradise are pungent and aromatic (ironically, it is not related to any of those). Often, they are used to flavor vinegars, beer and wine. Additionally, they are used in herbal remedies and in veterinary medicines. It is just one of the spices in the African collection from Vanns Spice Company. I was first introduced to the spice this spring, when it arrived at the store. I was instantly intrigued by the unique flavor profile.
To try Grains of Paradise, substitute the spice for pepper in marinades or vinaigrettes. It can also be used in the traditional Moroccan spice mix, Ras el Hanout. Ras el Hanout is a mixture of as many as 30 different spices, and is used as a spice rub. Grains of Paradise also adds a nice dimension to eggplant dishes.
-Josie
Grains of Paradise Salad.

Mother's Day

Mother’s day is a day reserved for thanking our mothers and grandmothers. Variations on the holiday are celebrated around the world. While I am grateful for my mother every day, it’s nice to do something “extra” to show her that I care. While thinking about the upcoming holiday this year, I reminisced fondly about all my has mother taught me.
My first cooking experiences happened at my mother’s feet, playing with pans and spoons as she prepared dinner. We baked cookies together for Christmas, made strawberry jam after picking berries in July, and cooked pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving. I am so thankful for all that she taught me, including a love for the kitchen. I found a hobby, a passion and a career because of her.
Once I began cooking full time, my mom allowed me full reign in the kitchen. (I gleefully accepted). A few recipes however, continued to be her specialties. No matter how hard I try, my mother still makes a better pie. My father soundly agrees that my mother’s pie crust is flawless- flaky, delicate and light. She would make Quiche Lorraine for me, with its smooth, flavorful filling and crispy crust. I’ve adapted her recipe to include red bell pepper, for a bit of color, and replaced the bacon with goat cheese for a tangy twist. This recipe is perfect for brunch, lunch or tea. It can be served warm or at room temperature, accompanied by just a fruit salad and coffee. Or, for a more elaborate repast, serve smoky bacon, berry parfaits and mimosas.
-Josie

Josie's Red Bell Pepper and Goat Cheese Quiche

Reader Recipe Request- First Edition

The first edition of our reader recipe requests! I'm very excited to share with you a recipe that I truly adore- Chocolate Chunk Cookies with Pecans, from the lovely Pearl Bakery. I have always loved the Pearl Bakery, and used to go there every Sunday. (Admittedly, I went there more than just Sundays.....) I would always treat myself to something decadent- a crunchy panini with fresh mozzarella, or a delicate croissant, or a dense slice of cornmeal pound cake. But my favorite treat was always the luscious chocolate chunk cookie; the high ratio of chocolate to cookie, the dark, rather than sweet chunks, and the crispy pecans made them irresistible. Lucky for me, they are right down the street... (or maybe unlucky?) Thanks to the wonderful people at the Pearl, you can make these delicacies at home. Now if only I had a glass of cold milk......
-Josie

More on Mushrooms

After reading my post about the morels, Pam asked, "so how do you clean morels?" Good question! I did a bit of research. http://www.foodnotes.com/ provided a lot of this information, but http://www.foodreference.com/ is another great site for food trivia. There are about 20 different species of morel mushrooms. In the wild, they can be identified by tall, pointed caps that have a honeycomb-like surface. Usually, the mushrooms are brown, yellow, or black in color, with have short, hollow stems. Morels are known for their nutty flavor and intense woodsy fragrance.
Once you are lucky enough to acquire morels, treat them carefully. Freshly picked morels can be stored in the refrigerator for two to three days. Fresh morels are difficult to find in grocery stores, as they grow only in temperate regions and appear only in the spring.
To clean them- Cheryl suggests that you place them in a paper bag and shake them to gently loosen any dirt or debris. Then, rinse the mushrooms several times quickly, without soaking them and clean the pits with a fine brush. Mushrooms should never be held under water as they are super absorbent- think of them like a tasty sponge.
Interesting trivia? Morels should always be eaten cooked, as they can irritate the stomach when eaten raw. Large morels can be stuffed, while the smaller mushrooms are ideal for sauces, soups, and stews. Simple recipes are ideal, as they showcase the distinctive morel flavor and aroma perfectly.
-Josie

Lesson of the Day

I have the good fortune of truly loving my job. Everyday, I look forward to going to work. When I'm not at work, I'm thinking about work. Food and writing are my passions- I’m so lucky that they are united in my daily projects. One of the best things about being at In Good Taste is the wealth of information that I’m surrounded by. Foodies are known for their interesting trivia collections, and my wonderful coworkers are no exception. I learn something new everyday. Yesterday for example, we were reflecting on the delicious morel mushrooms that we found in the Farmer’s Market over the weekend. I commented that they were uniquely beautiful. Cheryl pointed out that explained that there are “false morels,” that are lighter in color, with a grayish tint and a less intense flavor. In fact, some of the false morels even cause allergic reactions in some individuals. I had no idea there was such a thing! I can’t wait to see what I learn tomorrow.
-Josie

A Taste of South Africa

On Good Morning America this past Friday, Matt Lauer had a taste of South Africa. He had the good fortune of talking with Giada Delaurentis, who was full of ideas for enjoying the delicious wines from the region. South African wine is becoming quite popular these days. The wines are interesting, flavorful and unique. I've found the wines to be particularly food-friendly, and a nice addition to the wine menu. I recently tried a Pinotage that I liked quite a bit; it's a light red that has just enough spice, without being over powering. If you're interested in trying some of the South African wines, you're in luck. We carry a selection of many South African wines. Barbara is originially from South Africa, so she has first hand experience pairing the wines with native flavors. Whether you are looking for something for a special occasion, or just a weeknight dinner, we can help you pick one that complement your menu perfectly. Cheers!
-Josie

A Sense of Whereverness

It seems like today, any cuisine that you crave is available. It's easy to find Thai, Vietnamese, Spanish, Mexican, Japanese, Mediterranean and Italian restaurants everywhere you go. Portland is lucky to have such a diverse collection of ethnic restaurants. And it's become far easier to find ingredients to prepare those exotic dishes at home. Even average grocery stores have fish sauce, interesting cheeses, rice paper, spices and more. But once you've found those ingredients, what do you do with them? It can be intimidating to peruse the aisle of the store, even more so once you get home. I can't tell you how many times I've gone shopping with lofty plans in mind, bought fun items, and then end up lost as to what to do with all my goodies. It's nice to be able to travel anywhere you want to go in your kitchen, as long as you have a map of some kind. For all that we celebrate Oregon's Bounty here at In Good Taste, we also attempt to offer a world of cuisine that is accessible and fun. In a way, we try to "travel the world for you," bringing back ideas and recipes. We strive to approach those exotic flavors with a relaxed, can-do attitude. That way, you can see how much fun it is to experiment with new ingredients and recipes, and your kitchen can be a gateway to the world.
I think that cooking should always be about new ideas and fun projects- it should never be stressful or intimidating. If you want to try some new flavors and cuisines, here's a small sampling of what's coming up this month. For more ideas, check our website for the full
calendar.
-Josie
May 12 -Italian Vegetarian with Michele Knaus
May 19- Hawaiian Feast
May 30- Indian Street Foods with Leena Ezekiel

A Return to Roots, Rhubarb and Perfect Pie

I recently returned to Portland after several years of working and eating around the world. I’ve had the good fortune of living in cities known for their food (New Orleans and Florence to name a few). Although there are parts of the other cities that I miss, it’s nice to be back in Portland. Our city has so much to offer in the way of food. The city is so in line with my own values; local, sustainable, organic. I love how easy (and delicious) it is “eating local.” Everywhere I go, I find beautiful food, made by artisans or produced by local farmers. The weekday farmers markets are about to open, giving food lovers the chance to shop for edibles almost daily. (I can’t wait! Most recently at the market, I found baby artichokes, baby carrots and radishes. Rhubarb is also in season, and can offer so much more than just a filling for pie. If you’re looking for a quick, seasonal dessert that has maximum flavor, try a crumble. It’s like a crisp, but has oats in the topping for added texture. Don’t forget the vanilla ice cream for serving! The ice cream will melt into a semi sauce that makes this a perfect end to a spring meal. But, if nothing will be as satisfying as a rhubarb pie, learn perfect pie technique from Tim Helea of the Pearl Bakery. Tim will be here tonight to give tips and techniques for flaky pastry that is irresistible.
-Josie

Link to Josie's rhubarb crumble

Guilty Pleasures

Everyone has a comfort food- something they crave when they have a bad day or are under the weather. "Guilty pleasure" foods are entirely different; guilty pleasures are foods you love, but may not readily admit to. Chefs often consider their childhood favorites as such. They secretly love things foods like Marshmallow fluff, Wonder bread and Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. Prompted by the recent question about comfort food, I asked our staff about the foods they eat behind closed doors. Reluctant to share at first, it took a bit of persistence to finally get them to confess. I have to admit that as much as I love innovative culinary creations and interesting condiments, there's nothing like ketchup. French fries aren't complete without ketchup, and I can't do without it for my scrambled eggs. But don't tell.
-Josie

Ryan- "Spam. In a Fritatta, with melted cheddar cheese."
Rachel-"Biscuits with lots of honey.
Sue- "Chocolate chip cookie dough."
Pam-" Crunchy peanut butter."
Barbara-" Cream scones with jam."
Rodrigo- "Hostess cupcakes."

Comfort me with.....

Even if spring is here and the flowers are blooming, the sniffles still linger. For those days when you’re feeling slightly under the weather, comfort food is on the menu. I think that soft white foods in general are soothing. For me, the foods of my childhood are mashed potatoes, preferably served in a conical mound with a pat of butter oozing down the sides like lava from a volcano. Or really fluffy buttermilk biscuits and lots of good jam and honey. Our staff members wanted to share some of their favorite comfort foods. I’m hungry just writing this…..
-Josie

Pam- “Ice cream. Any flavor.”
Melanie- “Cinnamon toast and hot cocoa.”
Joseph- “A grilled roast beef sandwich with sautéed mushrooms and provolone.”
Jen- “ Saang paneer.” (Indian cheese)
Barbara- “Bread pudding” - pictured above
Ryan- “Chocolate mousse”
Maya– “Sushi”

Risotto Revealed

Basic risotto is a delicious and comforting dish consisting of sautéed rice, wine, good stock, and fresh parmesan cheese. Beyond the basics, whatever vegetables or meats that you have available can be added. Risotto is just waiting for seasonal improvisation. Instead of zucchini, try asparagus tips. If you can’t find smoked salmon, you could use sautéed rock shrimp. The true keys to good risotto are quality of ingredients and technique. In her upcoming class on May 20th, award winning Chef Linda Carucci, reveals those secrets in an in depth “Risotto Workshop.” The class covers the basic Risotto Milanese, luxurious Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Risotto with Smoky Sausage and Clams, and Northwest Smoked Salmon and Dill. Everyone in the class will have the opportunity to prepare risotto themselves before sitting down to an afternoon repast of delicious dishes. With a few tips and techniques from Linda, you’ll never be intimidated by risotto again!
-Josie

Improving with Improvisation

Cooking is like jazz in many ways. It has its own rhythm, flow, and timing. They are both completely individual, subject to the composer’s personality and whim. Music and cooking can be meditative activities, practiced alone, or as social gatherings, with friends and family. What you get out of your music and cooking reflects what you put into it. Play and cook with love and enthusiasm and you will live well (and eat well too!) Innovation and inspiration come from within in both the kitchen in music. I think that improvisation though, is where cooking and jazz are most similar. Improvising on a whim makes whatever you are doing better; it makes it more individual, more unique, and fresh. And no matter how hard you try, most likely you’ll never do it the same way twice. Improvising is also a good way to customize recipes to you preferences. I like to substitute as many local ingredients in recipes as possible. Recipes that are easily adaptable are pastas, stir fries, and even risotto. As long as you are pleased with the final product, there’s no reason you can’t bend the rules a bit.
-Josie

What's Better than Bacon?

What’s better than bacon?Really, not many things are. But lately, I’ve loved Pancetta. Pancetta is an Italian form of bacon that is not smoked. It is pork belly that has been cured in salt, then spiced and dried for three months. Each part of Italy produces its own type. In our kitchen the other day, Chef Michele Knaus made a fantastic dish featuring local asparagus, sautéed with pancetta and pine nuts. The smell of the pancetta permeated the entire store, distracting me from my work and luring me to the back, where I happily sampled a plate of the bright green spears. They were lightly salted from the pancetta, with crispy bits of meat and crunchy pine nuts. The combination of textures and flavors was perfect and just goes to show you that the best ingredients and simple techniques are sometimes the most satisfying.
--Josie

Eating Green

Recently on epicurious.com, there was an article about progressive restaurants and their eco- friendly practices. The article pointed out that while you can’t control how a restaurant operates, you can choose where to eat. The same goes for stores, and even cooking schools. Portland is a great city to for those that want to be environmentally conscientious. Eco- friendly programs for recycling, composting, commuting and shopping are all fairly accessible.
I was excited to read about all of the restaurants and companies that are starting to think about the impact of their practices. Fortunately, it’s becoming easier to find “green” businesses. Portland is a great example of a city that is thinking “green.” And with the opening of the farmer’s market, fresh foods from small farms are that much more accessible. This weekend, we’ll be celebrating earth day by shopping at the farmer’s market. The menu sounds wonderful; herbs and lettuces are in season, as are asparagus, radishes, morel mushrooms and more. Our purchases will be part of the Oregon’s Spring Bounty Dinner with Chef Nancy Forrest on Sunday, April 22. Her seasonally inspired menu features Seared Scallops on local Baby Greens, a velvety Asparagus soup, Herb Crusted Halibut, and Painted Hills Skirt Steak.
To give you an idea about where our ingredients come from, I thought I’d mention a few of our favorite producers. It’s also a way for us to say thank you to all of the businesses that we rely on.
For hazelnuts, we like Freddy Guys Hazelnuts They have Oregon filberts, farm direct. (For personal snacking, I like the chocolate covered version).
Our beef is Painted Hills Natural Beef. A great local meat market, just up the street, is Viande Meats. The pancetta is excellent and the sausages are made daily. City Market, which houses Viande Meats, is also home to Newman’s Seafood. They have very fresh fish and carry sustainable seafood.
Williamette Valley Cheese Company produces farmstead specialty cheeses like gouda, jack, fontina and havarti.
With such a wealth of natural resources and conscientious purveyors, selecting local, organic and sustainable ingredients is easy. Eating well can be good for you, and for the earth too.
--Josie

Edible Accidents

Sometimes, the best discoveries in life come from “failures.” This is true for the kitchen too; an over baked cake can be transformed into a delicious trifle. The dry cake layers can be cubed, tossed with simple syrup or simply layered with custard and whipped cream. A magnificent dessert from a potential disaster. A chef friend of mine was hosting dinner for 10 at his home one evening. In his rush to get dinner prepared, he left a gallon of vanilla ice cream on the counter. Voila- instant sauce for his homemade shortcakes. Yorkshire pudding is a British specialty, in which, a batter, similar to that used for popovers, is poured into a shallow pan containing the fat from cooked roast beef, and cooked in the oven. Originally, the batter was placed in a pan beneath the roast to catch the drippings while it cooked.
Popovers can be sweet or savory. They are traditionally filled served with butter and jam, but can also replace gougere pastry in appetizers when filled with crab salad, or warm cheese. When I was playing with the recipe for basic popovers, it occurred to me to fill the warm puffs with fluffy scrambled eggs and goat cheese. I sprinkled the finished dish with chives and settled down to enjoy a delightful breakfast on a cold April morning.
--Josie

See Breakfast Popovers with Scrambled Eggs and Chevre

Speaking of Cheese …

I've just returned from Chicago where we attended the 29^th IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) annual conference. It was a wonderful event (more later) and I was delighted to meet Paula Lambert, past-president of the IACP and founder of the Mozzarella Company, a small cheese factory in Dallas. We have used her cheese cookbook for years and it's long been a favorite resource for the staff. Now we have her brand new book, Cheese, Glorious Cheese, to refer to.

Paula will come and teach at In Good Taste this summer (August) so look out for her class.

She has posted some of her delicious recipes on her website at http://www.mozzco.com/

- Barbara

The Glories of Cheese

Ah cheese…. Such a glorious ingredient. Perfect alone as a tasty nibble, or incorporated into recipes to elevate dishes from everyday to luxurious. It can transform plain bread into an oozing mouth watering sandwich, or simple pasta into a creamy gratin. The addition of cheese to vegetables convinces many children to take just one bite. As a topping, cheese is almost synonymous with pizza, one of the most popular foods in the world. Cheese gives names to cities, such as Roquefort and Epoisses. I had a French teacher once that had grown up in Roquefort. She waxed on about the many applications for the odiferous blue product, claiming its smell permeated the city and that eating it each day ensured longevity. People everywhere love cheese.
When I was growing up, there were only one or two artisan cheesemakers in the Pacific Northwest, and maybe 20 in the US. Now, there are over 300 specialty cheese makers across the country, with over two dozen in the NW. The Willamette Valley is one of the prime dairy regions in the country. While making award winning cheese may take years of study and practice, making basic cheese isn’t hard at all. With basic instruction and a simple technique, anyone can make delicious, fresh milk cheese at home. You don’t even need fancy equipment.
Since I love cheese so much (and in pretty much any form), I recently signed up for Michele Knaus’ Hands on Class on Artisan Cheesemaking. This coming Wednesday, April 18th, Michele will lead a class on making your own cheese. The class will cover ricotta, mozzarella, and mascarpone. At the end of the class, we’ll feast on our masterpieces, and even get to take some home. What a way to impress your family! I can’t wait. To inspire you to take the class and make your own cheese, I’m adding some of my favorite recipes using cheese. Basic pasta is coated in a simple sauce of creamy ricotta and spring vegetables. You can change the vegetables depending on the season and your preferences. Make your own ricotta using locally produced milk, buy seasonal vegetables from the farmer’s market, and pasta from Pastaworks, and you’ve met your Eat Local Challenge and created a beautiful meal!
-Josie
Farfalle with Baby Spinach, Ricotta and Walnuts

Raise Your Glass to Cooking with Beer

Last weekend was busy for Portland foodies. The farmer's market opened on Saturday, and the 13th Annual Spring Beer and Wine Fest took place Friday and Saturday at the Oregon Convention Center. Portlanders had a chance to mingle with artisan brewers, vintners, distillers, and cheese makers, listen to great music from local bands, and eat great food. The cheese selection was impressive, with products from local vendors like Willamette Valley Cheese Company. Forty different brewers, each with two varieties of beer, were on hand to offer samples and pairing advice.
There were lots of tips about types of food to pair beer with, but I was really thinking about types of food made with beer. With the exception of beer bread, which I make frequently to go with hearty soups, I don't use beer in my food very often. It's a great ingredient that adds a lot of flavor dimensions, plus, with so many great brews to choose from in Oregon, the possibilities for use are endless.
Author and culinary instructor Sheila Kaufman will be teaching a class on Cooking with Beer at In Good Taste on June 12. Her class on beer sounds like the perfect way to spend a summer evening- sip artisan beers, snack on delicious food, learn about cooking with beer....the thought itself warms me up. The menu for the class offers 8 different dishes, all of which features beer as a star ingredient. From Beer Boiled Shrimp to a Guinness Stout cake, Sheila will share tips on incorporating beer in your food, as well as in your menu. I hope to raise my glass with you in celebration of cooking with beer this summer!
-Josie

Eat Local Update

The Eat Local Challenge just got easier for Portlanders- the Portland Farmers market opened this last Saturday in the park blocks. The sun peeked through the clouds and the rain held off just long enough for the crowds to gather and marvel at spring’s newest developments. There were fiddlehead ferns, asparagus, morel mushrooms, radishes, arugula, herbs, broccoli, spring onions and more. In addition to all of the fresh produce and raw materials, including delicious goat cheese and honey, there were vendors selling warm, crusty bread, yummy burritos, pastries and chocolates. Despite the slight chill in the air, the atmosphere was happy and festive- everyone was excited for the start to the spring season of open air shopping. Walking around the market place, my head filled with ideas as fast as my basket did. Recipes for creamy soups showcasing wild mushrooms and crunchy toast from the local bakeries, or a warming pasta with broccoli and goat cheese…. The best part about all of the goods available at the farmer’s market is that I can happily indulge, knowing that it all came from within 100 miles of my house.
--Josie

Fenouil Spring Dinner at In Good Taste

The French call April 1 “Poisson d’Avril”, or April fish. French children sometimes tape a picture of a fish on the back of their schoolmates, crying out, “poisson d’avril” when the prank is discovered.

I don’t usually think anything of April 1st, but this year, I was reminiscing fondly of the succulent halibut that I enjoyed during the Fenouil Spring Dinner Menu with Pascal Chureau. Pascal’s upscale brasserie, Fenouil, has a fantastic menu that is clearly influenced by his French and Moroccan heritage; it features the best of both cuisines. On Friday, March 30th, Pascal taught a fabulous Hands on class featuring spring ingredients and classic French flavors. The class used seasonal, organic ingredients and showcased the best products from local area producers and farmers.

As we entered the store, ready to begin our “lessons” for the evening, we were greeted warmly with sparkling wine and friendly servers. Barbara gave a wonderful introduction, and then Pascal began instruction. He started with a thorough introduction of the recipes, techniques, and ingredients we would be using. After we were comfortable with our tasks, the group of students divided up the recipes and set to work.

The atmosphere was lively and fun, filled with laughter and happy chatter. Pascal circled around the room, helping out wherever he was needed and offering advice. He was assisted by Cheryl, one of the wonderful chefs at In Good Taste. Both of them provided everything we needed and made the cooking process seem effortless. Because of the small class sizes at In Good Taste, all of the classes are very intimate. Guests get to know one another, interact with the chef, and contribute to each recipe. I was able to assist in the preparation of the fragrant Steamed Clams with Pernod and Grilled Baguette, the Watercress Salad with Goat Cheese and Truffled Croutons, as well as the Grilled Halibut with Morel Mushroom Hollandaise and Bacon and Asparagus Fricassee. The spectacular Tarte Tatin that was served for dessert with a hard cider crème fraiche was also prepared in class, but I opted just to watch. Cheryl and Pascal made sure that everyone was enjoying themselves and learning, without feeling overwhelmed or burdened.
When the meal was well on its way to being served, the guests had the opportunity to relax for a few minutes, shop for gastronomic treasures, sip wine, and chat with Pascal. The aromas filling the store were mouthwatering- I couldn't wait to sample our masterpieces!

Servers poured a lovely white wine and began to serve our first course- the salad. The goat cheese had been warmed in the oven and oozed over the salad greens, creating an unctuous sauce that coated my mouth. The happy chatter ceased as everyone began to eat. It was replaced with sighs of pleasure and little exclamations. “Oh my gosh! That is so good!” “Wow!”
While we ate, Pascal finished the clams. Our plates were cleared and replaced with steaming bowls of aromatic broth, redolent of Pernod. While I would have been happy to stop there, it only got better.

They say that hunger is the best sauce. I’m pretty sure that the guests at In Good Taste that night would argue that Pascal’s Morel Mushroom Hollandaise is better. He served the exceptional sauce over a perfectly cooked halibut steak. The fish was moist and juicy- a perfect foil for the delectable sauce. It was accompanied by an asparagus and fingerling potato fricassee with smoked bacon. The smoky flavor gently permeated the vegetables without being overpowering. (Everything really is better with bacon.)

Finally, when we thought that nothing would top the halibut, there was the Tarte Tatin. Crispy pastry filled with sautéed apples in a light caramel sauce was smothered in pillows of hard cider crème fraiche.

Once all of the plates had been cleared, the guests remained at the cozy oak table, sipping coffee and enjoying the company of the chef. All in all, it was an evening of opulence, education, and excellence.
--Josie