Sunday, June 24, 2007

Little Jar, Big Flavor

When it comes to desserts, people usually (although not always) fall into categories; those who love chocolate, and those who like everything else. Of course there are overlapping situations, but I’ve found that there’s a loyalty in most people’s palates. For me- I’m on the chocolate side of the fence. If I have dessert, it’s most likely going to be something sinfully dark and rich, like a chocolate pave. In the last year or so, I’ve been experimenting a lot with “weird” chocolates in my cooking. For example, I’ve begun adding interesting spices to all chocolate cookies, crystallized ginger, black pepper, unusual liqueurs, etc.

The other day, I found new inspiration for my chocolate experiments: Controne Hot Pepper. The new spice came into the store just the other day. It has a bright flavor and lingering heat that is unique and powerful. I liked the intensity, but wasn’t reduced to tears by it.

By the end of summer, there will be six dessert-focused restaurants opening in New York City. Three of them have unique dessert offerings, including a spicy chocolate soufflĂ© with chili pepper. I decide to try my own version, using the controne pepper. The heat is subtle, and doesn’t kick in until after you’ve savored the luscious chocolate. This recipe was particularly good with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, which cooled the tongue without smothering the flavors.

The chocolate soufflĂ© was good enough to save the pepper for exclusive use, but I’ve also tried it in vinaigrettes, over pasta, with grains, on chicken (I’m imagining it in a spice rub on grilled pork chops right now…..). It is particularly good in a dressing for a chickpea salad with roasted red peppers. And because it’s such a versatile treat, there’s no reason not to stock up.
-Josie

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