Top Ten Cooking Tips

Just in time for the Holidays here's a gift from In Good Taste to you.  We put together 10 great cooking tips to help you in the kitchen over the holidays. 

1. Saute Technique - To help keep food from sticking always heat the pan first and then add the oil.  Heating the pan first allows the pores to open and fill with oil.  This prevents the food from getting stuck in the pores of the pan.
2. Peeling Garlic - Here's a quick way to peel garlic.  Break apart the head of garlic and put the cloves in a metal container with a lid.  A coffee can or a metal bowl with a plate over the top works great.  Shake the garlic in the container until the skins release.  Open the container and remove the peeled cloves leaving the skins behind.
3. Mise en Place - This French term means everything in its place.  Before cooking chefs prepare all their ingredients and arrange them in the order of the recipe.  Mise en place helps guide the cook through the recipe.  Mise en placing also helps ensure all ingredients have been prepped before cooking begins.
4. Timer for Baking - Always use a timer when baking.  Baked goods usually have a very small window of doneness.  Baked goods can go from perfectly baked to over cooked in a matter of 30 seconds.  Initially set the timer for 75% of the required baking time.  If more time is required continue resetting the timer for 50% of the remaining bake time.  Say a recipe calls for a cake to bake for 40 minutes.  The timer will be set for 30 minutes to start.  If after 30 minutes the cake needs more time, the timer is set for 5 minutes (1/2 of the remaining 10 minutes).  If after 5 minutes the cake needs more time, the timer is set for 2 1/2 minutes (1/2 of the remaining 5 minutes) and so on until the cake is done. 
5. Digital Thermometer - Digital thermometers are a great tool to help determine the doneness of food.  From cooking meats to temperature to cooking custards, thermometers are a necessary tool.  I prefer digital thermometers for accuracy.  If using an analog thermometer make sure it has been calibrated first.
6. Read the Recipe - Always read the entire recipe through before starting.  Look for items that need to be chopped or prepared before cooking.  Identify and gather equipment. 
7. Season in Layers - Season in layers while cooking.  Seasoning food before cooking or as it cooks helps to distribute the salt.  It also allows the food to absorb the salt seasoning ingredients from the inside out.  This brings out more flavor and helps reduce the amount of salt needed to season. 
8. Taste, Taste and Taste - Tasting is a very important part of cooking.  A good chef tastes their food from start to finish.  Tasting helps identify problems early in the cooking process and it also helps with seasoning in layers.  Tasting throughout the cooking process will help you to develop natural cooking instincts and better understand how flavors change and develop.
9. Fond = Flavor - Fond is the French term for all those bits of food left in the pan after roasting or pan roasting meats.  Fond has great flavor and should be incorporated into a sauce for the meat.  Fond can be removed from a hot pan by deglazing.  Deglaze hot pans by adding a water based liquid such as wine or stock.  Stir and scrape the bits of food into the liquid.  Make sure fond is not too brown or burnt before using it in a sauce. 
10. Use the Right Oil - Using the correct oil when cooking depends on the application.  When cooking with oil, avoid flavored or expensive oil, such as olive oil, which loses its flavor when heated.  Instead use canola or grapeseed oil.  Just make sure the oil you use for cooking has been refined for high heat or the oil may become acrid when heated.  Use extra virgin olive oil for low heat cooking or making vinaigrettes. 

For more great cooking tips sign up for our Basics of Cooking Class on Saturday, January 14 at 1:00.  This class is taught by our Executive Chef Jeremy Niehuss and covers many of the basics of cooking like a pro!

Chef's Technique - Blanching

Blanching is a food preparation process where food, usually a vegetable or fruit, is plunged into a large quantity of boiling water, removed after a brief, timed interval and finally plunged into ice water to halt the cooking process. One key to proper blanching is to quickly regain a boil after the food is added. A large quantity of water will help with this. The longer green vegetables are cooked below a boil, the more green color is lost. The blanching water should be seasoned heavily with kosher salt. This seasons the vegetables from the inside out.

Following are uses of blanching:

1.      Peeling: Blanching loosens the skin on some fruits or nuts, such as onions, tomatoes, plums, peaches or almonds.

2.      Flavor: Blanching enhances the flavor of some vegetables, such as broccoli, by releasing bitter acids stored in the cellular structure of the food.

3.      Appearance: Blanching enhances the color of some (particularly green) vegetables by releasing gases trapped in the cellular material that obscure the greenness of the chlorophyll. Since blanching is done and halted quickly, the heat does not have time to break down the chlorophyll.

4.      Blanching neutralizes bacteria and enzymes present in foods, thus delaying spoilage. Blanching is often used as a preparatory step for freezing and refrigerating vegetables.

5.      Blanching also weakens the structure of vegetables rendering them softer than their fresh state; this is beneficial for canning vegetables where the air in vegetables needs to be minimal.

Blanching Technique:

1.      Start with a large quantity of cold water. Always start with cold water. Hot water will contain traces of minerals and metals that come from the hot water tank and pipes. 1 1/2 gallons of water is generally sufficient for most home blanching.

2.      Bring the water to a rolling boil and season with Red Diamond kosher salt. Adjust the seasoning of the water by tasting it and adding salt until the salt can be tasted. I sometimes will season the water until it tastes like the ocean, which will perfectly season vegetables, but will not leave room for additional salt to be used later.

3.      Prepare ice water for shocking the vegetables after they are done cooking. Make sure you have a lot of ice in the water. A larger volume of shocking water with more ice will help to stop the cooking process quicker, keeping the vegetables from overcooking.

4.      Blanch the vegetables until they are tender and bright green. Don't worry about using a timer, but instead taste the vegetables to determine when they are done. I use a pair of tongs to pull one out. Let it cool slightly and then taste. A perfectly blanched vegetable should be tender, but still a little crisp.

5.      Immediately shock the vegetables. Only keep the vegetables in the shocking water until they are cold. Keeping them in the water for too long will cause them to become water logged.

And these are the secrets to perfectly blanched vegetables.

Traditions of Christmas

Traditions of Christmas, family friends, fun and of course food, are all elements of an exciting and festive Holiday Season.

Baking our favorite “goodies” is absolutely essential.  Each one of us has their own special favorite which stimulates memories of an especially wonderful person or event.  Of course, our families have their favorites and “musts” for the season.  Sometimes it seems as though the kitchen is the only room in the house. 

Using good quality unbleached all purpose flour, sugar, butter, fresh eggs and spices are critical.  You will taste the difference when using vanilla paste rather than vanilla extract as an example.  Freshly ground spices and toasted nuts are equally important.  You will reap the benefits in taste and praise from your family and friends.  Of course, purchase products that your budget can afford. 

Another essential element is equipment.  Sheet pans, silpats, parchment paper, mixers, sharp knives, food processors are necessary.  Also, an assortment of measuring cups, spoons, bowls need to be available.

The last element is to have a plan.  Take time to review your recipes, create shopping lists and check your pantry for items needed.  Also, research one or two new creations.  Never hurts to encourage some adventure for your palate.   Allow yourself enough time to mise en place (a French phrase defined as “everything in place” )before you start to assemble your recipe.  By measuring ingredients and placing them together you not only assure yourself that you have everything you need, but you will be amazed how much time is saved.   Allow enough time to enjoy the experience.   Be forgiving if the recipe doesn’t quite work the way your envisioned.  After all, it is only food. 

Bake some memories this year.  Invite family members and friends to join you and make some hot chocolate or mulled spice wine and enjoy one another.   This is a gift that will be remembered for years to come: a gift of sharing yourself with those who are important to you.  

Happy Holidays!!!
Sherry
(LO location)

Dry Aging

One of my favorite things to eat is a dry aged rib eye, simply pan seared with salt and pepper.  The nutty and intense meaty flavor is the essence of a great steak.  The chemical reactions that happen during dry aging take an ordinary piece of meat to extraordinary. 

So, why is dry aging so special and what does it do to meats?  Basically, dry aging does 2 things.  First it concentrates the flavors of meats giving them an intense nutty flavor and aroma.  Second, it makes meats more tender.  This is a simple explanation, but to understand this technique it's useful to understand the science of dry aging.

Dry aging is a process where meats are allowed to age in a temperature and humidity controlled environment for long periods of time, sometimes up to 40 days or more.  As meat ages, enzymes start to multiply and eat the dead cells around them.  As the enzymes go to work, they break down large flavor molecules into smaller flavorful fragments.  The proteins are broken into savory amino compounds, the glycogen into glucose, and fats are converted to aromatic fatty acids.  These processes are what gives dry aged meats their intense, nutty flavor and aromas. 

Enzymes called cathepsins are responsible for making meats tender.  These enzymes break down the connective tissue between muscle fibers weakening the collagen.  This process not only weakens the structure of muscle fibers, but it also allows for more of the collagen to become gelatin during cooking.  And gelatin adds richness, moisture and mouth feel to meats.  The weakened muscle fibers exert less pressure as they cook, which reduces moisture loss during cooking and carving.

Dry aging is a very simple process, but without the right environment meats can end up turning rancid, instead of aging.  Dry aging is best accomplished in a refrigerator at 34 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit and at about 80% humidity.  Proper temperature controls bacteria growth and high humidity slows the loss of moisture, allowing for the flavors in meat to concentrate slowly. 

How to dry age at home:  Dry aging meats at home can be very difficult without proper equipment.  It takes practice to create the perfect environment.  For the adventurous home chef here are some pointers for dry aging at home:

1. Dedicate a refrigerator just for dry aging.  Refrigerators used for storage of other foods contain too many microbes and bacteria that will spoil the meat.  The meat will also take on flavors from other foods in the refrigerator.  Once you have a dedicated cooler, thoroughly clean it and sanitize it with a mild bleach/water solution.
2. Get a thermometer and hygrometer for humidity.  There are many devices on the market that do both.  Place a pan of room temperature water in the bottom of the refrigerator.  Even at cooler temperatures the water will still evaporate and create humidity. 
3. Line the refrigerator with cedar.  Cedar absorbs smells and will help keep the meat from taking on off flavors.  Cedar is also antiseptic, which is why it was used by the Egyptians for embalming.  So it seems fitting to use it for aging meats.
4. Start with smaller pieces of meat, such as a 4 bone prime rib.  Smaller cuts require less time and are less likely to spoil.
5. Rinse the meat with cold running water before aging.  This will wash away much of the bacteria and other microbes that will cause meat to spoil.  Dry the meat before aging.  Do not wrap or cover meats to be dry aged.  This can cause them to spoil.
6. Age meats until they are leathery on the outside.  The color will become deep red and the aroma will become nutty.  Some spots of the meat being aged may mold or turn rancid.  This is normal. 
7. Before cooking dry aged meats, the outside must be trimmed down to the bright red meat.  All rancid spots and mold should be trimmed.  Cook trimmed meats immediately.

These of course are just general guidelines to get you started.  I would highly recommend that you read up on the subject of dry aging before attempting it at home for the first time. 

For more on dry aging, butchery techniques and charcuterie I am teaching a class called "The Butcher Block" on Saturday, December 10 at 11:00 AM.  This part demonstration, part participation class will cover the basics of dry aging, curing, smoking, sausage making and basic butchery techniques. Join me to learn more...

Dry Brining

Over the past few weeks I have been blogging about seasoning with salt.  This is a very important topic for me because I feel that seasoning is an important technique that can help a cook make their food taste better.  But, at the same time learning to season is probably one of the most difficult culinary techniques to master. 

In today's blog I wanted to share one of my favorite seasoning techniques, dry brining.  Last week I blogged about wet brining (Brining), which is a great technique for seasoning foods, because it adds moisture.  But the one big drawback of wet brining is that the excess moisture can dilute the flavor of meat.  Dry brining offers many of the same benefits of wet brining, but doesn't hide the flavor of the meat.

My first introduction to the technique of dry brining came from Chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Cafe in San Fransisco, CA.  One of her specialities is roast chicken, which is out of this world.  I didn't know her secret until I purchased her cookbook and read about her approach of dry brining, a technique she uses often at Zuni.

Dry brining is actually very simple, but requires a little knowledge of the processes involved to master the technique.  The first step is to season the cut of meat.  Red Diamond Kosher salt works best.  Sprinkle all sides with the salt.  Next cover the meat and refrigerate to allow the process to play out.  Once the salt is added to the meat, it will draw moisture out.  Just like wet brining the salt will actually dry out the meat.  Next the salt dissolves in the water from the meat forming a small amount of wet brine around the meat.  Just like wet brining the meat wants to create homeostasis (the balance of liquid) and draws the salty water back into the muscle fibers.  Once the salt is drawn back in it breaks downs the connective tissues between the muscle fibers making the meat tender.  And since the salt is drawn to the center, the meat is seasoned from the inside out, which greatly improves flavor.

Dry brining uses the natural moisture in meat, with no additional water incorporated.  This means that the natural flavors of the meat are accentuated.  The process of dry brining also acts to preserve meats, extending their shelf life.

A couple of notes about dry brining:

1. Use a little less salt than would normally be used to season a piece of meat that is going to be immediately cooked.  Dry brining allows for all the salt applied to incorporate with the meat, so less is needed.
2. Allow enough time for the meat to go through the entire process.  Cooking the meat before the reverse osmosis is complete will result in dry meat.  I dry brine whole chickens and smaller cuts of meats, like steaks, for 2 days.  Larger cuts of meats (double cut pork chops) for 3 days.  And whole roast for 4 to 5 days. 
3. Aromatics for flavor - Once you master the dry brining technique try adding aromatics, such as herbs and garlic, or spices for flavor.  Just like wet brining the flavors will be absorbed into the meat. 

If you are interested in trying dry brining, it is best to start with a small cut of meat, like a rib eye.  It takes a little practice, but once mastered this technique will give amazing results.

To Brine or not to Brine?

Photo by Daryl Ann Yeany

To brine or not to brine? That is the question.  And as a chef it is a question that I am frequently asked!  So, in this week's blog I am going to discuss the world of brining, including how it works, benefits, drawbacks and techniques.  I will also share some great tips and guidelines to help you decide whether to brine or not to brine.  To answer this question it is important to first understand how the brining works.

What is Brining

Brining is a process where meats are soaked in a brine solution of salt, sugar and aromatics for flavoring.  Through osmosis the salt in the brine first pulls water out of the meat fibers.  It's counter intuitive, but initially brines dry out meats.  Next, through reverse osmosis, the brine is drawn back into the meat fibers creating homeostasis, or a balance of the liquid between the meat and the brine.   As the meat fibers absorb the brine, the flavors of the brine are also drawn in.  Next the salt starts to break down the connective meat fibers, making the meat more tender and allowing the meat to absorb more liquid than it initially contained before brining.

Effects and Benefits of Brining

1. Increase Moisture Content - Brining meats increases the moisture content making it less susceptible to drying out during cooking.  Brining in most cases is the best solution to avoid dry roasts. 
2. Seasons the Inside - Brine is drawn into the center of meat, seasoning it from the inside. 
3. Flavor - Another great benefit of brining is that whatever flavors in the brine are pulled into the meat as well.  This makes brining a great technique for flavoring meats from the inside out. 
4. Tenderizes - Once the salt from the brine is absorbed into the meat it starts to break down the connective tissue that makes meat tough.

Tips for Brining

1. Time - The longer the meat is left in a brine the more moisture it will absorb.  While meats will keep absorbing the brine over time, they will eventually reach a point where they cannot absorb any more liquid.  I generally brine fish for 24 hours or less, chickens for 24 to 48 hours, pork roasts for 36 to 48 hours and cuts like beef briskets for 3 days or longer.
2. Temperature - It is important to brine meats in the refrigerator for food safety reasons.  The only problem is the rate of osmosis is slower at lower temperatures.  To give the brining process a kick start, I cool my brine to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and then add the meat. 
3. Strength - The amount of salt in the brine will ultimately determine the amount of salt in the meat.  Generally a brine should be about 5% salt by weight of the brine.

Now, back to the question of whether to brine or not to brine.  I think brines play an important role in cooking, but only in the right applications.  So, here are my thoughts on different meats:

1. Turkey - While brining turkey helps avoid dry meat, I prefer not to brine my turkey.  I feel that the extra moisture content dilutes the meaty flavor of the turkey.  Brining turkey also makes the drippings too salty to use for gravy.  I follow the advice of food scientist Harold McGee and either roast the breasts and legs separately or I carve the breast into thin slices and mix them with the gravy, similar to saucing pulled pork.  The gravy will help moisturize the meat.
2. Pork Roast - I often brine pork roast, especially leaner cuts like pork loin.  Also, pork can stand up to the additional salt that brines add.
3. Chickens - I don't brine chickens that are being served as roast chicken for the same reason as not brining turkeys.  The chicken loses its meaty flavor.  But, if I'm cooking chicken to be cooled and used later for preparation, such as chicken salad or enchiladas, I find that a brine helps keep the meat juicy through the process of being cooled down and reheated later.
4. Beef - Rarely do I brine beef.  This is because beef tends to have a higher fat content, which makes beef roasts juicier.  The exception would be briskets for corned beef or pastrami, where the brine is essential to the preparation.

Here is a link to my basic brine recipe.  It's a versatile recipe that works great for poultry, pork or beef.  It contains pink salt, an essential ingredient for preserving meats to be smoked.  If you are brining meat to be simply roasted then I would recommend omitting the pink salt.

Seasoning Technique

This week we will be the final blog on seasoning and using salt.  When I teach classes at In Good Taste I always tell students that properly seasoning their food is the number one way to make it taste better.  No other technique can have such a dramatic affect on the flavor of food.  So I want to share some tips and techniques for seasoning food. 

Salt Selection - While there are many types of salt to choose from (See last week's blog), it is important to find 1 salt that will be your main salt for seasoning.  I recommend a kosher salt because the grains are large making it easier to see how much salt you are using.  I am very partial to Red Diamond Kosher salt.  Regardless of the salt you select, try to only use that 1 salt for the majority of your cooking.  Over time you will learn to season with that salt.

86 the Salt Shaker - 86 is a restaurant term that refers to running out of or getting rid of something.  Seasoning is tactile, meaning that it is best to use your fingers to pinch the salt when you season.  Using a salt shaker makes it difficult to gauge how much you are using.  It's also the easiest way to add too much salt to food.  So, that being said it's time to throw away the salt shaker and replace it with a bowl of salt.  To add salt to food, simply grab a pinch from the bowl and sprinkle it over your food.  Over time you will develop a seasoning instinct and learn how to gauge salt amounts by how much you grab with your fingers.

Season in Layers - This is probably the most important technique for seasoning.  Seasoning in layers means adding salt at the beginning and throughout the cooking process.  This technique allows the salt to be absorbed into the food, seasoning it from the inside out.  This creates better continuity and brings out the flavors in food as they cook..  It also means less salt is needed to season your food.   Seasoning food after it's cooked keeps the salt from combining with the food and limits the overall flavor.  The best way to understand this technique is to think about ratatouille, which is made by adding ingredients one at a time according to cooking times.  When I make ratatouille, I add a little salt with each ingredient addition.  By the time the ratatouille is done, it only needs a small amount of salt at the end to finish it.  Seasoning in layers helps avoid salty food, because you add small amounts as you cook.  This helps to avoid having to add a lot of salt at the end, which can make food taste salty, because the salt is on the outside of the food and not throughout.

Taste, Taste and Taste Again - There is no way to tell how much salt you are using without tasting the food you are cooking.  When we teach classes here at In Good Taste, we put out containers of tasting spoons and encourage students to taste throughout the entire cooking process.  Seasoning in layers and tasting go hand in hand.

Here are a few other seasoning tips and tricks:

1. When making vinaigrettes, add the salt to the vinegar before adding the oil.  Salt dissolves in water based vinegar, but doesn't dissolve well in oil.
2. Season reductions lightly in the beginning.  Anytime food is cooked down or reduced it concentrates the flavors and the salt. 
3. Season proteins just before cooking.  If you season steaks 30 minutes before cooking them, the salt will start to pull moisture out of the meat, making it dry.  See the blog, "The Effects of Salt on Food", from 2 weeks ago for some exceptions to this rule.
4. Test the seasoning of large batch fillings or stuffings, such as sausages or meatballs.  Cook a tester and taste it for seasoning.  Once you fill raviolis or form meatballs it is difficult to incorporate more salt to the batch.

The World of Salts

Growing up I remember the shaker of Morton's salt that always sat on our kitchen counter.  And that was the only type of salt that my mother used.  Go to the grocery store today and you are most likely to find a whole section dedicated to different varieties of salt.  From fleur de sel to sea salt to table salt, selecting salt can be a daunting challenge.  So, the question becomes, what salt to use when?

1. Fleur de Sels - Fleur de sel, or flower of the salt refers to fine artisan sea salts from France.  These single origin salts are hand harvested by Paludiers with rakes and allowed to dry under the sun.  These fine salts have a flavor profile that show the terroir of the salt marshes from where they are harvested.  These salts tend to be very expensive and are best used as a finishing touch to a dish where their texture and distinct flavor can stand out, adding another layer of complexity to your cooking.  These days you can find hand harvested sea salts from around the world, all with unique flavors and characteristics.  My favorite 2 artisan sea salts are Maldon from the UK and Sel de Guerande, which only comes from the Brittany region of France.  Both are amazing salts with completely different flavor profiles.
2. Kosher Salt - Kosher salt is the workhorse salt of most professional kitchens.  Kosher salt always comes from the sea and never mined from land.  The flavor of kosher salt is very neutral and clean.  Kosher salt grains are very large allowing them to adhere to food, which makes seasoning easier because you can see the amount of salt that has been sprinkled on food.  Many chefs say that kosher salt is less salty, which isn't really true.  But, because the grains of salt are larger than iodized table salt, you actually use less salt by volume.  1 tablespoon of Red Diamond kosher salt weighs 10 grams.  1 tablespoon of Morton's iodized table salt weighs 20 grams.  This means that when you use 1 tablespoon of iodized table salt you are using twice the amount of salt as 1 tablespoon of kosher salt.  I prefer Red Diamond Kosher salt over other brands because it does not contain anti caking agents, which are chemical additives that keep the salt from clumping.  One caveat about kosher salt is that it does not contain iodine, an essential mineral for the human body.  But, as long as you include seafood in your diet, you will get the necessary amount of iodine.
3. Flavored Salts - All throughout time, salt has simply been salt.  But, over the last couple of decades flavored salts have started to come into the culinary scene.  There are now so many different types of flavored salt that you could try a new one every day of the year.  Personally I feel most flavored salts are gimmicky, but I do have 2 favorites that I always keep in the pantry.  First is Artisan Salt Company's White Truffle Salt.  Intensely flavored with white truffles, this salt is great on French Fries, gnocchi, potatoes, eggs and popcorn.  The other salt is Saltworks Bonfire smoked salt.  Smoked with 7 different woods this salt has a unique rich flavor with a smokiness that is not overwhelming.  Great on grilled meats, mashed potatoes, vegetables, or a steak, this salt adds flavor and complexity to your favorite dishes. 

Now that we have covered the world of salts, next week I will share the tricks and secrets to seasoning food and proper seasoning techniques.

The Big Vegan by Robin Asbell

Hi Good Thymes readers! This is Jessica, In Good Taste’s Customer Service Manager. I’m taking over the blog this week to promote an author that I think is truly fabulous! If you’ve ever been to our Pearl District cooking school, you know that we have a wonderful collection of cookbooks. I admit, some afternoons when I’m between customers and phone calls, I’ll sneak over to the book cases and pick out a random title to browse. Sometimes I pick something that I know absolutely NOTHING about. Sometimes I pick a book simply because of the photo on the cover, though conventional wisdom frowns at judging a book this way. And yes, this IS how I choose my wines too but I digress…

When I was new to In Good Taste a customer came into the store looking for a healthy cookbook. I lead them to the appropriate section and noticed several copies of The New Whole Grains Cookbook by Robin Asbell. Previously, this had not caught my eye but I flipped through and noticed wonderful photographs of delicious-looking food, and tempting recipe titles accompanied by easy instructions. My stomach growls now just thinking about it!

As I started showing the customer the book, I found myself wanting it. Next thing I knew, I was making batches of Caramel Walnut Chocolate Chunk Granola and Maple-Cinnamon Granola Bars for hiking trips with friends. A roommate said she had some extra Italian Sausage and didn’t know what to do with it. I said, "Oh, I know…Please make this!!!" while pointing wildly at the photograph of Filet Mignon and Barley "Stew" with Spinach. "Just substitute the sausage for the filet mignon" I explained. It was DELICIOUS!! That was when I knew I was a Robin Asbell fan.

As a fan, I am really excited to announce that Chef, author, and public speaker Robin Asbell will be visiting In Good Taste on December 1, 2011 at 6pm. She will be teaching a hands-on class featuring recipes from The New Whole Grains Cookbook, which is still one of the best-selling books at In Good Taste.

　
In this 3-hour hands on cooking class you’ll be making Mushroom Dusted Chicken and Rice Timbales with Pinot Sauce, Peruvian Quinoa Crusted Shrimp Chicharrones with Aji Sauce, Thai Coconut Fried Black Rice with Basil and Tofu, Pizzocheri Italian Buckwheat Noodle and Cabbage Casserole, and Whole Grain Wraps with Mexican Pepita-Cilantro Quinoa, Beans and Roasted Vegetables. Robin will also demonstrate French Lamb and Rye Berry Braise for students to enjoy!

Robin’s newest book, Big Vegan contains recipes, "for food that nourishes you and respects the planet, all with tons of flavor, texture, color and aroma. Even if you love meat, you will find recipes here that will satisfy you and make you feel great."

Copies of both books will be available for purchase and be sure to get your book signed too – I know I will!

The Effects of Salt on Food

Whenever I interview a perspective cook for my kitchen I always ask one question in particular.  "What is the most important ingredient in the kitchen"?  And when I ask this question I'm looking for one answer - SALT.  Few candidates get the answer right, which is surprising considering this one single ingredient is responsible for making food taste good. 

And, when I teach classes here at In Good Taste, my students often proudly tell me that they use very little salt when they cook at home.  So, when they see me constantly reaching into a bowl of salt and seasoning food, a look of horror comes across their face.  They can't believe how much salt I use when cooking.  Before even tasting the food, they are convinced that it is horribly salty.  But, when they taste how salt enhances the flavors of food, they start to let down their salt guard, which has been built up through years of anti-sodium sentiment.  So, I remind those students who are anti-salt that it is important to understand that the high levels of sodium in our diets come from processed foods and not the salt we add to our home cooking.

Over the next few blogs I am going to talk about salt.  Today I am writing about the chemical reactions that occur when salt is used on foods.  Throughout the next few blogs I will be talking about how to season foods, different types of salts and their uses and how to use salt for brining and curing. 

So, how does salt effect food? 

1. Brings out the flavor of food - Salt opens up the taste buds on the tongue, allowing more of the flavor compounds from the food to reach the cellular receptors on the tongue.  No other compound on earth creates this chemical reaction.  This is why I say salt is the most important ingredient in the kitchen.
2. Mellows bitter flavors in food - Salt helps to limit or decrease the bitter flavors in food.  This is why I soak radicchio in salt water before using it in salads.  Scientist have yet to pin point exactly how salt suppresses bitter flavors, but it works.  And, if you don't believe me try adding a pinch of salt to a glass of tonic water.  The bitterness of the quinine is effectively eliminated, making the tonic taste like sugar water.
3. Salt draws moisture out of food - Before the days of refrigeration, salt was used to cure foods, making them shelf stable for long term storage.  Through osmosis salt draws moisture from the cells of food.  Sometimes this can be a desirable process, such as curing meats like bacon, smoked salmon and prosciutto.  When salt draws moisture out of food it reduces the overall amount of water content.  And because bacteria needs water to grow and multiply, reducing water slows down the spread of bacteria.  The process of salt drawing out water is known as osmosis.  But, what is important to remember is that foods can undergo reverse osmosis and draw liquids back in creating a liquid balance known as homeostasis, which we will discuss later.

So, with a better understanding of how salt affects food, next week we will talk about seasoning techniques and how to use salt when cooking.

The Perfect Pastry Crust

There is nothing better than a perfectly baked pastry crust.  With a flaky, tender and crispy texture and a buttery flavor, the pastry crust is the essential base for tarts, pies and quiches.  While the ingredients are usually the same; butter, salt, sugar, flour and water; it's the technique that makes a great crust. 

While there are many different types of pastry crust to choose from, we will focus on the classic French pastry crust - pate brisee.  This classic recipe can be used for savory or sweet applications and usually only has a little sugar.

In this week's blog I will share the tricks and tips to making a perfect pastry crust:

1. Cold Butter - Those flaky layers in a pastry crust come from alternating layers of butter and flour. To create those layers, the butter is cut into the dry ingredients using your fingers, a pastry cutter or a food processor. Starting with cold butter helps keep the butter from completely incorporating into the flour. I prefer to freeze my butter for a few minutes before starting to make the dough.
2. Cutting the Butter - Cutting the butter into the dry ingredients is the most important step to creating a flaky crust.  I start with 1/2 inch cubes of butter and cut them in until the butter resembles the size of fat peas.  Larger pieces of butter creates a flakier crust and smaller pieces of butter create a mealier crust.
3. Adding the Water - It is very important to only add enough water to get the dough to come together.  Adding to much water creates a tacky dough that will need additional flour during the rolling process.  I add the water in small batches, testing before adding more water.  Test the dough by picking up a small amount and squeezing it.  If it sticks together, no more water is needed.  If it crumbles apart then more water is needed.
4. Forming the Dough - Once the water is incorporated the next step is to form the dough into a disk to later be rolled out.  Be careful not to knead the dough, but rather push it together.  Don't let the heat from your hand melt the butter.
5. Rest - The dough that is.  Whenever you work with dough, glutens start to form.  Glutens are also known as the muscle of flour.  Because a good pastry crust is tender, it is very important to let the dough rest after each step of prep process.  As soon as the dough is made it should be allowed to rest in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes.  This allows the glutens to relax and the butter to get cold.  Once the dough is rolled out and formed into the pie or tart pan it should be chilled again for 45 minutes before baking. 
6. Baking - The classic pastry crust does not have a leavener, such as baking soda or baking powder and relies on the steam produced during the baking process to create those flaky layers.  I start my pastry crust at 375 or 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  The high heat causes the water to quickly become a vapor, which expands creating pockets in the crust. 
7. Blind Baking - This important step is necessary to get a golden brown and crispy crust.  Blind baking involves baking the crust without the filling.  The crust is first lined with foil or parchment paper and then dry beans are added.  The beans create weight and keep the crust from over rising.  They also help keep the crust from shrinking.  Blind baking is usually a 2 part process.  During the first part the crust is baked with the beans or pie weights until the edges start to brown.  Next the beans or pie weights are removed and the crust is returned to the oven to continue to bake until the bottom is dry and slightly browned.  The second part of the process creates a shell on the crust, which will keep the filling from absorbing in and making the crust soggy.

Next time you need a pastry crust for a pie or tart, try this pate brisee recipe.  It's perfect for most pies, tarts or quiches.

Perfect Pastry Crust

The Art of Bacon Lardons

Adam and I just wrapped up our third Culinary Boot Camp here at In Good Taste. And while all of the food was amazing it was the bacon that stood out. As a class we cured, dried and smoked our own bacon. On the first day we cured a Tails & Trotters pork belly. After 3 days of curing we rinsed the pork belly and dried it overnight to form the pellicle. The pellicle is formed by air drying cured meats for 24 hours under refrigeration. This is an important step, because the pellicle creates a skin on the belly that allows for the smoke to stick during the smoking process. After all of our hard work we put our bacon to good use; layering it on cheeseburgers, pan frying lardons for quiches and omelets, and snacking. Of course each student took a good chunk home for their future bacon endeavors.

Bacon is great on its own, but when added to dishes it imparts smoky flavors, richness and a bit of saltiness. And the best wayto incorporate bacon into dishes is the lardon. Probably one of my favorite bacon preparations, the lardon is a strip of bacon, usually 3/8 inch by 3/8 inch and 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. But, there is much more to the lardon than just its shape and size.

Bacon lardons are quickly cooked in a hot pan, allowing the outside to get crispy and golden brown, while the inside stays moist, soft and a little fatty. And these little treasures of bacon love are great in salads, quiches, sprinkled on potatoes, or even better, cooked on a tart. The great thing about a perfectly cooked bacon lardon is that it gives off a little fat when it is cooked into a dish, adding an extra layer of richness. The French Tarte Flambé Alsatian is a classic example of the lardon's legacy. Crispy lardons are sprinkled over this classic onion tart just before it goes into a wood fired oven. As the tart cooks, fat from the bacon renders and drips over the side of the tart, where it creates little flames that lick up around the side of the tart and add flavor.

Next time you cook with bacon try the lardon! Also, here's my recipe for maple cured bacon.

[Photo courtesy of Daryl Ann Yeany]

October 1, 2011 PSU Market Tour

So, its official, fall has begun and summer is winding down.  And, since today is the first day of October, it is only fitting that fall produce is now starting to show up at the markets.  This morning I ventured to both The Beaverton Market and The PSU Market.  What I noticed at both markets today is an abundance of beautiful produce.  Chilies, peppers, corn, squashes, tomatoes and other summer fare still look great and now apples, pears, winter squashes, potatoes and onions are starting to come into season.  This is my favorite time of the year for produce and I often find that I'm indecisive about what to cook with.  Today I found myself purchasing more produce than I need, but it all looked so good.  Here are some of the highlights for this week.

Brussels Sprouts – I couldn’t track down the farm selling Brussels sprouts, but I did see a few people walking through the market with fresh Brussels sprouts, so they are out there.  And when it comes to Brussels sprouts I find that most people love them or hate them.  The secret to delicious Brussels Sprouts is how they are cooked.  To prepare them I first blanch them in salted water.  Before blanching, trim off the tough outer leaves and using a paring knife cut an X into the stem end going about ¼ inch deep.  This helps the centers cook.  Blanch the sprouts for about 4 minutes or until a paring knife inserted into the center meets no resistance.  Immediately plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process.  To finish Brussels sprouts cut them in half and sauté with rendered bacon, onions, garlic and a hint of sherry vinegar at the end.  Here’s a great recipe for Brussels Sprout and Wild Mushroom Fricassee.

Brussels Sprouts and Wild Mushroom Fricassee

Onions – This is the best time of year for onions.  Almost every large farm has onions for sale.  From the sweet varieties to cipollinis, this is the time of year to roast, caramelize or sauté them for your favorite dishes.

Chanterelles – Chanterelles are starting to become very abundant and the prices are great, anywhere from $9.00 to $12.00 a pound.  In the summer chanterelles start out woody and tough, but at this point they are moist and have a perfect texture.  Mushrooms will definitely benefit from the cool and damp summer, so if you love mushrooms get ready for a great season.  Chanterelles go great with Brussels sprouts and would work very well in the fricassee recipe above.

Potatoes – I always forget how much I love potatoes, especially when they are grown on a small farm.  The difference between the potatoes you buy at the super market and those at the Farmers’ Market is night and day!  I buy some of the German Butterballs from Groundworks Organics every time I am at the PSU Market.  And for an out of this world potato experience stop by Prairie Creek Farm.  Their farm is located in the Northeast corner of Oregon and the soil in that area produces very flavorful potatoes.
Grapes – Grapes are starting to show up at the market.  The selection is still sparse, but we should start to see more over the next few weeks.  Unger Farms had amazing red flame seedless today.

Apples – Apples are everywhere and the quality is great.  I have found that the crisper varieties, such as honeycrisp and Fuji’s have been the best.  The great thing about apples is that they store well, so once you find a flavorful and crisp variety that you like the chances are they will be available for weeks to come.

Tomatoes are still very abundant at the market this week.  But once summer is gone so are the tomatoes.  So the question is how can you enjoy summer ripe tomatoes throughout the winter?  Well, of course there is canning, but I have another secret for preserving tomatoes for the winter.  It’s called slow roasting and it works great for romas.  Every fall I buy copious amounts of romas and roast them to bring out their flavor.  This simple technique involves coring and quartering roma tomatoes and then tossing them with olive oil, thyme, rosemary, garlic, salt and sugar.  Next you lay them out on a baking sheet tray with a roasting rack and slowly cook them for 12 to 16 hours at 150°F.  This process takes a long time, but the results are, well, flavorful.  The final step in this process is to peel off the skin and place the tomatoes in jars with olive oil and fresh thyme and rosemary sprigs.  These tomatoes are great on pizza, antipasto platters, sandwiches or with pasta.  Here’s my recipe for Slow Roasted Tomatoes.

Slow Roasted Tomatoes


Photos courtesy of  Daryl Ann Yeany

PSU Farmers' Market Tour

After last week’s tour of the Beaverton Farmers’ Market I decided to head back down to the PSU Market.  Today was a beautiful warm day, perfect weather for browsing the market.  Sadly though, the long warm days of summer are giving way to autumn.  Even as the weather is changing the markets are still teeming with an abundance of produce.  Here are some highlights of my tour:

Tomatoes – Groundworks literally had crates of roma tomatoes at their booth and the price is right at $1.00 per pound for bulk purchases.  If you are planning to can tomatoes this season, Groundworks is your best bet for good quality romas at a great price.  Other than the romas, tomatoes are still fairly green and I have come to accept that this year’s tomato season is almost over.  A few farms were selling tomatillos.

Chilies and Peppers – Both are very abundant right now with great quality.  Not to be missed are the freshly roasted poblanos.  Available for sale, these hand roasted peppers will make a great addition to your next Mexican culinary creation.

Corn – Corn has greatly improved in quality and next week should bring us some of the best corn of the season.  Make sure to cook fresh corn right away while the sugar levels are still high.

Berries - Berries are still hit or miss, but the strawberries at the market today were surprisingly good.  And with fall officially here huckleberries made their first appearance today with a couple of booths selling wild black varieties.  The next 2 weeks should bring an abundance of huckleberries, so now’s the time to buy them in bulk and freeze them or make jams.

Hazelnuts – I stopped by and talked to Barb and Fritz, owners of Freddy Guys Hazelnuts.  They had good news about this year’s hazelnut harvest.  They were both very excited and looking forward to a bumper crop this year.  Great news for them and even better news for hazelnut lovers.  If you haven’t tried their hazelnut products make sure to stop by for some samples!

Chop – For the past 2 weeks Chop has been selling an outrageously delicious chicken liver mousse.  Apparently the secret to their mousse is lots of mascarpone cheese and bacon.  Whatever the secret is, I must confess it is some of the best chicken liver mousse I have ever tried.

Tails & Trotters – If you haven’t tried Tails & Trotters pork products you are missing out!  Still a relatively new operation, they are gaining respect in the animal husbandry world.  Their pigs are raised humanely and they never use GMO feeds, wheat or corn.  While traditionally pigs for prosciutto eat acorns to add flavor to the meat, T & T takes a different approach, utilizing Oregon hazelnuts to finish their pigs.  The result, well, you’ll have to stop by their booth and sample some of the products to experience a whole new level of bacon love!

Nectarines – The nectarines from Baird Farms are juicy, sweet and packed full of flavor.  Probably the best stone fruit at the market today.  Other than nectarines the peaches are still juicy, but not real flavorful or sweet.

Winter Squashes – Just as autumn is getting started, so are the winter squashes.  A few farms were selling the first squashes of the year and they all looked great.  With all the different ways to prepare winter squashes, my favorite is to make soup.  Below is a link to my recipe for Thai Red Curry Butternut Squash soup.  The recipe works best with butternut squash, but any variety will work well.  The soup is rich, velvety, creamy and finishes with a delightful note of spice.

Jeremy's Red Curry Butternut Squash Soup

Chef Jeremy’s Weekly Cooking Tip - When is a pan hot? 

You see recipes requiring a hot pan, but how do you know when a pan is hot?  For most cases, such as pan searing and sautéing, you can test the hotness of a pan by dropping a few drops of cold water into the pan.  The water should form small balls that dance and race around the pan.  If the water splats and sizzles the pan is warm, but not hot.  This technique is great for testing a hot pan, but sometimes a warm pan is sufficient, such as when you are sautéing with butter, which will burn in a hot pan.

Saturday, September 17, 2011 Beaverton Market Tour

Today, I journeyed out to my favorite market, The Beaverton Farmer’s Market.  While the Saturday market at PSU is the most popular, it is also crowded and a tourist destination, making it tough for the serious shopper to negotiate.  I have discovered that the Beaverton Market is geared more towards locals who just want to buy the best produce and avoid the crowds of people.  The selection and number of farms at the Beaverton Market is just as good as PSU or even better.  I also feel like farmers at the Beaverton market are friendlier and take more time to talk to you about their produce. 

I guess that after a cold and rainy spring and summer it is only fitting that it started to rain, right when I arrived at the market.  But, even with the rain the produce is still amazing.  The  prior week of sun and hot weather has allowed our local produce to ripen and really reach its peak. 

Touring through the market today, peppers and chilies are at the height of their season.  All the varieties of bell peppers looked amazing.  Chilies are very abundant and ripe and should get even better over the next 2 weeks.

Tomatoes are still hit or miss, with many farms offering beautiful and ripe varieties, while other farms are struggling to get their tomatoes to ripen.  This week’s cold and rainy weather may cause tomatoes to start to decline.  Although, Romas are looking great and now is the time to start putting them up for the winter.

Local corn has been average at best and selecting sweet corn is a challenge.  While the prices are good the quality is still spotty.

The berry season is quickly winding down.  Blackberries are good, but still not great.  The biggest surprise today was the strawberries.  A few farms have amazingly sweet and plump strawberries.  Blueberries are good, but still a bit mealy and acidic.

Eggplant and squashes couldn't be better right now.  All the varieties at the market today looked incredible, perfect for ratatouille. 

Stone fruits are still average with Baird Farms featuring the best peaches and nectarines.  My advice for selecting stone fruits is to find farms that are offering samples.  I bought peaches last Wednesday from a few different farms at The Shemanski Park Market and found that they were mostly average with high water content and very little flavor or sweetness. 

Jeremy’s weekly tip – Selecting Corn

Ever wondered how to pick out the sweetest corn?  The sugar level in corn is always highest right after it is picked and starts to go down after it is harvested.  When I am selecting corn, I always start by feeling the weight.  If the ears of corn are light it often means that the corn will be dry and mealy.  Heavier ears means the corn will be plump and juicy.  Next, I look at the silk, which should be vibrant and fresh.  If the silk is starting to darken and become wet then it means the corn is older, which indicates that the sugar levels are starting to decrease.  The final and best test is to peel back the husk and look at the kernels, which should be plump.  If the kernels have little dimples or are starting to shrivel, the corn is not fresh and the sugar levels will have started to decline.  Always store corn in the refrigerator to slow the conversion of sugars to starch. 

Jeremy’s weekly tip – Blanching

Blanching is a cooking term that describes a process of food preparation where food, usually a vegetable or fruit, is plunged into a large quantity of boiling water, removed after a brief, timed interval and finally plunged into iced water to halt the cooking process.  One key to proper blanching is to quickly regain a boil after the food is added.  A large quantity of water will help with this.  The longer green vegetables are cooked below a boil, the more green color is lost.  The blanching water should be seasoned heavily with kosher salt.  This seasons the vegetables from the inside out.  The following are uses of blanching:

1. Peeling:  Blanching loosens the skin on some fruits or nuts, such as onions, tomatoes, plums, peaches or almonds.
2. Flavor:  Blanching enhances the flavor of some vegetables, such as broccoli, by releasing bitter acids stored in the cellular structure of the food.
3. Appearance:  Blanching enhances the color of some (particularly green) vegetables by releasing gases trapped in the cellular material that obscure the greenness of the chlorophyll.  Since blanching is done and halted quickly, the heat does not have time to break down chlorophyll as well.
4. Blanching neutralizes bacteria and enzymes present in foods, thus delaying spoilage.  This is often done as a preparatory step for freezing and refrigerating vegetables. 
5. Blanching also weakens the structure of vegetables rendering them softer than their fresh state; this is beneficial for canning vegetables where the air in vegetables needs to be minimal.

September 10, 2011 PSU Farmers' Market Tour

It’s hard to believe that summer is almost over.  And while we are seeing some of the sunniest and warmest days of the season, the signs of fall are starting to show.  The unseasonably cool and damp summer has dramatically impacted local produce.  While vegetables have fared much better than fruits the lack of sun is apparent in much of the market's offerings.  With that said there is still an abundance of amazing fruits and vegetables to be found.  To help you select the best produce we are introducing a blog that will detail my weekly tour of the PSU Farmers’ Market.  Through this blog I hope to help you find amazing produce, by sharing tips for selecting produce and highlighting the best produce of the season.  Today Daryl (One of our retail associates and staff photographer)  and I toured the market together in search of the best fruits and vegetables the market is currently offering. 

Jeremy’s weekly tip – Selecting great produce can be a challenge.  This week I want to talk about using smell to select produce.  As Daryl and I entered the Northwest corner of the market we could immediately smell the cantaloupes from Deep Root Farms.  Even before I got within 20 feet of the stand I had already made up my mind that I had to  have a canteloupe.  The aroma of vegetables and fruits is the best indicator of quality and flavor.  Produce that smells great will taste great.  Perfectly ripe fruit will have a pungent and sweet aroma that permeates throughout the warm air.  I could smell the strawberries from Unger Farms 10 feet away from the stand.  When it comes to selecting fruits by smell, I use my finger nail to just barely prick the skin of the fruit right next to where the stem was attached and smell the aroma.  If it smells amazing then it will taste amazing!

Berries – The cold and damp summer has taken its toll on this season's berries.  Even with the recent sun and hot weather blackberries are still tart and have little flavor.  I was not impressed with any of the blackberries at the market today.  I have had much better luck with picking wild blackberries in The Columbia River Gorge.  The Washington side of The Gorge has ample sun exposure, which has helped the blackberries to ripen.  The biggest surprise at the market today was strawberries.  Yes, great strawberries in September!  The Seascapes from Unger Farms are amazing; sweet and packed full of flavor.  Many other farms featured tasty strawberries as well.  The blueberries are much sweeter now, although they still have very high water content, diluting their flavor and making them mealy.  Again Unger Farms had the best blueberries in the market today!

Melons – Melons are starting to reach their peak.  The cool and damp summer has not affected melons like other produce.  Many farms are selling a wide variety and the quality is good to great.  I purchased a cantaloupe from Deep Roots Farms today and it was amazing.  One of the best cantaloupes I have ever tasted.  Their sweet smell permeated the NW corner of the market! 

Tomatoes – While the tomatoes at the market today were good, they are still not great.  Tomatoes were actually hit or miss today with some farms featuring some of the best tomatoes of the season, while others were selling tomatoes that were still very green.  My advice for tomatoes is to avoid any that are ripe on the bottom and still green on the top.  They don’t seem to ripen very well.  Roma tomatoes are starting to make their appearance with good quality, although prices were still a bit high.  I would recommend waiting a week or two before purchasing romas for canning.  The prices should come down, while the quality goes up.  When it comes to heirlooms the darker colored tomatoes seem to be ripening better.  This is most likely due to their dark color absorbing more of the sun’s heat!  The petite tomatoes are amazing today, although they are starting to get a bit mealy with the recent sun.  The sungolds are sweeter than they have been all season.

Squashes and Eggplants – Eggplants are at the height of their season today, with many farms selling a wide variety from globe to Asian varieties.  They have good moisture content and the flavors are amazing.  All the varieties of squash were looking great with good color, texture and moisture content.  It’s difficult to go wrong with eggplants or squash right now.

Peppers and Chilies – It’s still early for most peppers, although Rick Steffen and Spring Hill Farms both had beautiful red bell peppers with a deep red color.  Their flavor is superb!  Yellow bell peppers looked good, but they still need another week to reach their peak.  Purple bell peppers were under ripe and still need another week or two to reach their full potential.

Peaches and Nectarines – This summer has not been a very good season for stone fruits.  The cool and damp weather means large and juicy fruit with high moisture content.  Most peaches that I have tried this summer have been juicy, but with little flavor or sugar content.  That being said we should start to see better peaches with the hot and sunny weather.  While peaches have been average the nectarines are fantastic.  I purchased some nectarines from Baird Farms and they are amazing with great flavor, sweetness and texture.  Nectarines should continue to get even better. 

Jeremy Niehuss is the Executive Chef and Culinary Instructor at In Good Taste - Jeremy's Bio