Friday, June 29, 2007

What's the worst that can happen....

"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again." Everyone makes mistakes, has cooking disasters, and is intimidated by something in the kitchen. (Even those of us who have been to cooking school.) Pastry- no problem. Fish- no worries. Shellfish..... I get nervous. Not because I don't eat it frequently (it's always on my menus), but because I'm constantly afraid I'll overcook it. Too many times, I haven't cleaned the clams thoroughly enough and end up with a bowl of sand, or I overcook those delicate pieces of squid to the point where they are tennis shoe quality rubber. It's frustrating, and intimidating. But the other day, I was craving mussels to go with the lovely Abacela Rosé we just got at the store. I was bound and determined to make a perfect steamed platter of mussels. Because she always has a good answer (and is both knowledgeable and patient with me), I asked Cheryl for some advice. Of course, she knew what to do. She gave me some pointers, showed me again how to clean them properly, and sent me on my way.

Once I started cleaning them, it wasn't so hard. I reminded myself of what I'd learned reading James Beard, and what Cheryl had told me, and the recipe went find. I felt so comfortable that I even made a few of my own additions. The finished product was delicious- fragrant, redolent of garlic, with a silky butter finish. Mmmmmm….

So remember- don't let intimidating ingredients/recipes/menus stop you from trying something new. The worst possible scenario? You have to start over or order a pizza. But no matter what, you'll learn something.

-Josie

Simply Steamed Mussels

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Our Philosophy

I watched another episode of the Next Food Network Star the other night. Each of the contestants was asked for their "culinary philosophy." That started me thinking..... a lot of the stories and recipes included on this blog follow the "culinary philosophy" of In Good Taste. Our goals at the cooking school, and with this blog, are to help foodies indulge in their culinary fantasies; to help cooks be successful with recipes; to encourage use of local products and ingredients; and, to generally explore the great world of food and cooking. There are excellent websites for restaurant reviews, informative websites for shopping in the Pearl, and extensive websites for ingredients, cookbooks and cookware. We want only to bring you the best information and tips that will enhance your cooking adventures.

“To invite people to dine with us is to make ourselves responsible for their well-being for as long as they are under our roofs.”
Brillat-Savarin

-Josie

Ratatouille....


…is one of my favorite dishes. I love it, mostly because it blends together some of my favorite ingredients in a culinary symphony. Eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, onion, sometimes red bell pepper (if I have one), and fresh herbs are combined in a sort of vegetable stew. It is good warm, room temperature, and even cold, in a sandwich filling or as part of an antipasto spread. I use it for filling omelets, combined with mozzarella, over pasta with feta, or plain as a side dish for sautéed chicken.

There are variations of the dish throughout the Mediterranean. But essentially, it is simply a ragout of sautéed vegetables. The flavorings can be varied to suit your preferences. Add or omit various seasonal vegetables as you see fit. I almost always deglaze the pan with white wine after I sauté the onions, but I’ve also used balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar and red wine with equal success. I like to use fresh basil and oregano to finish the dish- dried herbs will also work (just add them earlier on in the preparation to allow the flavors to develop).

There are many ways to go about making ratatouille. One begins by sautéing onions, then adding sliced eggplant and zucchini, followed by the tomatoes. That will work wonderfully, and really doesn’t take very long at all. If you’d like a deeper, more “oven roasted flavor”, or want to prepare this ahead of time, after you finish with the tomatoes and herbs, turn the mixture into a baking dish that has been coated with olive oil. Bake it for 15-30 minutes, (covered, to prevent moisture loss). An other method is more time consuming and involved, but creates deeper, caramelized undertones that I think are worth the extra trouble. Sauté the onion, eggplant, and zucchini separate. Then combine them together in a large sauce pan, deglaze with wine or vinegar and add the tomatoes and herbs that way.

Whichever way you go, make sure you season well with salt and pepper early on, and continue to taste as you go.

Josie's Efficient Ratatouille

-Josie

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Little Jar, Big Flavor

When it comes to desserts, people usually (although not always) fall into categories; those who love chocolate, and those who like everything else. Of course there are overlapping situations, but I’ve found that there’s a loyalty in most people’s palates. For me- I’m on the chocolate side of the fence. If I have dessert, it’s most likely going to be something sinfully dark and rich, like a chocolate pave. In the last year or so, I’ve been experimenting a lot with “weird” chocolates in my cooking. For example, I’ve begun adding interesting spices to all chocolate cookies, crystallized ginger, black pepper, unusual liqueurs, etc.

The other day, I found new inspiration for my chocolate experiments: Controne Hot Pepper. The new spice came into the store just the other day. It has a bright flavor and lingering heat that is unique and powerful. I liked the intensity, but wasn’t reduced to tears by it.

By the end of summer, there will be six dessert-focused restaurants opening in New York City. Three of them have unique dessert offerings, including a spicy chocolate soufflé with chili pepper. I decide to try my own version, using the controne pepper. The heat is subtle, and doesn’t kick in until after you’ve savored the luscious chocolate. This recipe was particularly good with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, which cooled the tongue without smothering the flavors.

The chocolate soufflé was good enough to save the pepper for exclusive use, but I’ve also tried it in vinaigrettes, over pasta, with grains, on chicken (I’m imagining it in a spice rub on grilled pork chops right now…..). It is particularly good in a dressing for a chickpea salad with roasted red peppers. And because it’s such a versatile treat, there’s no reason not to stock up.
-Josie

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Smokin’ hot


Smokin’ hot

It's Grilling Season. It started around Memorial Day (I think that that's the official kick off day), and will go strong until Labor Day. After that, the die-hard grilling fans will hover around the barbecue, wearing heavy coats and shivering, (but will be too stubborn to admit that they are cold). As much as I like grilling and the flavor of grilled food, I think that smoking is more unique and has a bigger impact. I love smoked chicken, smoked peppers, smoky bacon, smoked salmon...... The technique produces an intense flavor that adds depth to ordinary recipes, creates dimension where there is none, and generally perks up boring food. Liquid smoke just doesn’t make the cut in terms of authentic smokey flavor. To me, it tastes plastic-y and nothing like the earthy character, hearty flavor and great texture that well- smoked food has. What can you do to achieve that flavor profile if you don't have much kitchen/patio space, an arsenal of kitchen tools, or refuse to use "smoke-in-a-bottle"? The answer - the new Stove-top Kettle Smoke and Wood Roaster. The adorable red smokers arrived at In Good Taste today, much to my delight. The compact, circular kettle resembles a large covered pot, with a place for an easy- to -read thermometer right on top. Creating perfectly smoked food is easy- just spread the wood chips evenly over the bottom of the smoking pan, position the drip pan on top of the wood chips (which are included, by the way) and add water or broth, place the grill rack with food onto the smoking pan, and put the domed kettle lid onto the smoking pan. Then, place the smoker onto a stove top burner and set it to medium heat. You can also use it outside on the grill. Use the thermometer to adjust the burner to proper smoking temperature. That's it. You can smoke up to five pounds of food with this compact tool, but it's small and light enough for me to move around easily. I can definitely picture myself making a tasty smoked chicken (emulating the perfect smoked chicken from Tom Hurley's recent grilling class) and a platter of smoked salmon. Smoking beats grilling any day- especially in the winter!
-Josie

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Food TV Challenge Part 2

In the second episode of the Next Food Network Star that I watched, the challenge was titled, “NBA Chocolate Challenge”. The goal was to design a stadium oriented snack that would signify the contestant’s individual style, impress sports fans, and be appropriate for a mid game treat. The winning recipe was a delicious sounding bacon-wrapped mushroom dish. As good as that sounded, I know that I’m more often than not going to choose something that combines the best of both worlds- sweet and salty. But for this challenge, I had chocolate on the brain (perhaps the title was to blame?). The Bittersweet Truffled Almonds fit the stadium bill- they are easy to make, easy to eat (unlike say, a chili cheese dog, which just screams “Tide Bleach Pen” to someone like me) and are unavoidably good.
-Josie

Bittersweet Truffled Almonds

12 oz semisweet chocolate
6 tablespoons butter
2 cups large almonds; blanched, and whole
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

In a small but heavy saucepan melt the chocolate and the butter, stirring constantly until blended and smooth. Remove from heat. Line a cookie sheet with wax paper. Dip the wide end of the almond into the chocolate mixture and place on the prepared cookie sheet. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set the chocolate. When cold and hardened, dust with cocoa powder.

Monday, June 18, 2007

Following the Food TV Star Search

I have a confession- I watch reality food TV. It's ironic, because I rarely watch TV anyway, and I never watch reality TV. But with the first season of Top Chef, I was hooked. Suddenly, I found myself planning my week around the Wednesday night episode. When the season ended, I was a bit saddened. What would I do with all that extra time? (Easy- cook!) My chef friends got into the show too, and we would have weekly Top Chef Challenges. Whatever the challenge of the week was, we would repeat it, have a cook off, and then eat.
It's not convenient to watch Top Chef this season, but I've started watching the Next Food Network Star instead. For personal entertainment, I'm going to cook along with the show. The first night challenge was a super easy grilling recipe, that explained the contestant's culinary point of view. I created the Grilled Halibut with Watermelon Salsa and Cyprus Black Sea Salt. I think that it shows my culinary point of view because I like to use local, organic and sustainable products whenever possible, highlight the unique qualities of each ingredient, and add a little bit of an unusual twist. Stay tuned for my response to next week's challenge!
-Josie

Sunday, June 17, 2007

The Daughter of a Fisherman

My father is many things; brilliant, generous, kind, ethical, respected, influential…
of all the people that have influenced my life, perhaps my father has left the biggest impression. I've always looked up to him, admired and adored him, and now that I am older, we are becoming friends as well as father and daughter.

Some of my fondest memories with my dad are (ironically), of fishing. His passion for fishing supersedes his passion for all other hobbies. Although I don’t particularly love to fish, I do love to eat the rewards, and I love to be with my dad. As a kid, I was a part of most of the (weekly) fishing trips on the ocean or the river. He taught me how to fish, from baiting the hook to casting a spin real to the art of casting a fly rod. I wouldn't say that I’m an accomplished fisherman, but I can hold my own on a boat when necessary. My role most of the time was to wield the net while he pulled in the prize catch. Once the fish was in the boat, we’d measure them, to ensure that the fish were legal, ice them down, and head in to the marina. The next lesson in the world of fishing was how to clean the fish. My dad does keep his catch (as opposed to throwing it back) but he is extremely respectful of the fish. I learned a deep reverence for the earth and ocean from him. To put it simply, if you kill it, you must clean and eat it with respect, deference and purpose. I think that catching, cleaning and cooking the fish myself, from a young age, also showed me the connection between the earth and my food. I understood where the food came from, and that I was lucky to have it.
I wish there was more time to fish with him now. Even when we can’t catch the fish together, we still share the catch. My dad is an excellent cook, especially of seafood. His preparation tends to be much more simple than mine (he’s not one to create elaborate sauces, foams or emulsions), but he still listens politely as I give my suggestions. Despite his preference for minimal additions to high quality fish, he has an adventuresome palate and is willing to try most of the things I make. Although we won’t be together this Sunday, I’m going to make Pina Colada Halibut with Pineapple Salsa. I'll serve it with coconut jasmine rice and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc like Mulderbosch, from South Africa.

-Josie

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Strawberries

I love strawberries. There's really nothing else that signifies the arrival of summer quite as much as a basketful of sweet strawberries, still warm from the sun. As a little girl, my mom and I would pick strawberries together. I can't say that I was much help in the grand scheme of things (most of what I picked ended up in my mouth rather than in the basket), but we still had fun. I adore strawberry shortcake (and have it for breakfast any chance I get). While I was in Napa, I was trying to get a lot accomplished, while still enjoying the sunshine. At one point, I was half lost and quite frustrated, and stumbled across a small farm stand at the corner of White Cottage road. I pulled up to the stand, which was oddly crowded for being so remote, and surveyed the display. There was much to choose from- nectarines, apricots, green beans... but I was immediately drawn to the strawberries. I bought two baskets, one for after lunch and one to take back to my hotel room for later in the day. Once I got back in the car however, I was overwhelmed by the sweet smell. I gave in, and ate one. It was perfect- juicy, warm, and quintessential summer. I ate another. And another. I was determined not to greedily eat the whole basket, or stain my white shirt. I was unsuccessful on both accounts. I devoured the basket of berries, dripping the red juicy all over my shirt and staining my hands. I felt like I was five years old again, satiated and sticky after a day in the strawberry fields.
-Josie

Friday, June 15, 2007

The Road to Napa is Paved with Good Intentions

Beringer Vineyards


When your career and your passions intersect, there are many benefits. For one thing, you can combine business with pleasure for multi-purpose travel. (While some may look at this as a drawback, I look at it as an excuse to travel more, for business purposes, of course.) I visited Napa Valley last weekend. It was beautiful- more so than I expected, and the vineyards, wineries and landscape were breathtaking. I spent most of my free time eating (always good), and accomplished very little otherwise. I had grandiose plans to buy lovely trinkets for everyone at home, visit every winery on my list, go to the museums in St. Helena, the parks, all of the big restaurants, and the significant stores (like Dean and Deluca). Unfortunately, I only had three days in which to achieve these goals, in addition to the other things I still needed to do. However, I did manage to eat at a few good restaurants, visit a winery or two, and collect tiny souvenirs for friends. I brought back pictures, lavender from COPIA, menus, brochures, and lots of ideas. The good news is that I'll be back soon, and hopefully this time I'll do better at checking things off the To Do list.

-Josie

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Riesling Week

In the third annual Riesling week (sponsored by the organization The Wines of Germany), wine lovers can discover (or rediscover) the unique qualities of German Riesling. In participating restaurants in New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas, and Chicago, there will be special food and wine pairings, tasting menus, flights and by-the glass selections. Promotions also include introducing new wines and wineries.

Riesling wines are elegant, and fragrant, and are often reminiscent of peaches or apples.

I’m pretty excited, and plan on hosting my own mini-Riesling week here. Riesling is a great wine for summer; many of them have lower acidity and alcohol content, a light crisp flavor, and complement the lovely seasonal produce we’ve all been looking forward to. Riesling pairs well with goat cheese, salads, and shellfish.

To celebrate, I’m going to start the weekend with a bottle of Argyle Riesling from our cellar here, and to accompany it, I’m going to make a sun dried tomato and Chèvre tart.
-Josie

Sun Dried Tomato and Chevre Tarte

National (insert title here) Day

Everyday it seems, is a national food holiday. If not national, regional. Not that I need inspiration to think about food (it pretty much occupies my thoughts no matter what), but those little nuggets of trivia that come with each new food holiday never cease to give me more ideas. Today, for example, is particularly good in my mind: National Chocolate Ice Cream Day. Mmmmm... two of my favorite things in one cool, creamy combination. In honor of such a special day, I'll be making a dark chocolate ice cream with rum and raisins (it's worth a try). I'll let you know how it goes. And if all else fails, a new ice cream shop is opening just around the corner.....
-Josie

An Evening in Morocco

I love “theme” nights- transforming an evening and meal into a true adventure. Sometimes it works out better than others, but it’s always interesting and fun. I recently sampled lovely Moroccan mustard from Dulcet cuisine that we carry here at the store. The flavor profile is complex- deep undercurrents of curry and cumin. I created recipes and a menu to showcase the mustard. To extend the theme, I set the table with small votive candles, played Moroccan music in the background, and arranged vases with brightly colored flowers around the room. While I cooked, my guests nibbled on fried almonds and marinated olives with orange zest and red peppers.
My menu was simple, flavorful and delicious (based on the happy sounds emanating from them, my guests agreed with my opinion). The dessert was a little intense, but it’s hard to say no to chocolate.

To Drink- A rose like Penner Ash- the sweet finish stands up to spicy flavors

Salad of Arugula, Oranges and Avocado with Honey-Citrus Vinaigrette

Chicken with Moroccan Mustard

Couscous with cinnamon and dried fruit

Chilled Dark Chocolate Mousse with Fresh Strawberry Coulis

To try the chicken recipe, click here. Chicken with Moroccan Mustard

A few suggestions for the chicken recipe:
-If you’d like a smoother sauce, strain it before you serve it. It’s not necessary, but it does give a better presentation.
-You can marinate the chicken in the mustard up to an hour before, for a more intense flavor
-Use a hotel pan or a baking sheet if you don’t have a large glass baking dish
-You can also use a whole chicken, broken down into eight serving pieces. Double the mustard and sauce quantities, and cook the chicken longer, about an hour.

-Josie

Monday, June 4, 2007

Just like Winnie the Pooh

As a child, I was fascinated by bees. My neighbor had a beehive that he would collect honey from. I would watch it cautiously (from a substantial distance), mesmerized by the rhythmic buzzing. This spring, my allergies have caused me to develop a bit of a cough, but I've found that drinking tea with honey and lemon solves the problem. The husband of my friend Nancy (who happens to be a wonderful chef here at In Good Taste) sells honey from his beehives. I bought a huge gar from him. At first glance, it seemed like the jar would last forever. But there's nothing like local honey- its sweet, smooth, slightly floral, and has a color like spun gold. I shared a bit with some of my friends, had a spoonful here and there in my tea, on toast, in sauces and vinaigrette...... (just as is...). There's only a tiny bit left. I'm hoarding it until I can replenish my stash. Each honey tastes slightly different. Nancy's husband's honey is not too sweet (so I can eat more of it.) When I can't get Nancy's honey, or for a bit of variety, I like Queener Fruit Farm Honey (which we carry here at In Good Taste). It is pure, uncooked honey, from Scio, Oregon.
-Josie

Going for Bananas


Recently, Leena Ezekiel taught a wonderful class on Indian Street Foods. I love Indian foods of all kinds, but especially street foods like pakoras and samosas. India has a rich bio-diversity of banana and plantain, and is the largest producer and consumer with estimated production of 16 million tonnes of bananas annually (from http://www.foodreference.com/). India's domestic production of bananas alone exceeds the entire world trade. This neat fact started me thinking about bananas, and with the warm weather this weekend, I cranked up my ice cream maker to make Caramelized Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream. The combination of tropical flavors, hot, gooey bananas and cool, creamy ice cream was perfect for an early summer dessert after a busy day.

Caramelized Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream

Friday, June 1, 2007

For the Love of Shopping (for food)

As per usual, I went to the grocery store last evening. I go most days, partly because I'm terrible at planning ahead, but also because I love to shop for food. I like looking for interesting products, things I need, things I don't. I get ideas, learn new things..... it's like a miniature education. Most of the time, I come away with more than I planned to, but it always gets used eventually.
I rarely talk to other customers, being too engrossed in my own culinary fantasies. When I can, I do chat with the butcher, the fish guy, the baker, the cheese monger etc.
Yesterday, I was perusing the spice aisle, purposely selecting a variety of ingredients for my evening's experiment. Randomly, a man stopped me with a hesitant, "excuse me...?" I turned. I must have looked like I belonged there, because he continued; "Will you please help me find granulated mustard?" Granulated mustard? Why don't I know what that is? It occurred to me he must be following some obscure recipe; I could sense his growing stress and see the furrows in his brow. I pointed to the powdered dry mustard (assuming that's what he meant). He looked more confused. "What about pepper sauce?" I took him to the condiment aisle and showed him the many varieties of hot sauce. He seemed more confused. Finally, I asked him what he was making, hoping I could offer some "sage" advice. He handed me a crumpled recipe for Texas Barbecue Sauce, and asked me to help him find the remaining ingredients. I was so pleased and amused that he was making his own sauce (with that much stress involved, I was surprised he hadn't just grabbed a bottle off the shelf), that I agreed to help right away. (Of course, I was flattered too!) We finished the shopping list and I offered some tips for making and using barbecue sauce (don't add it until the end!). Gratefully, he thanked me, and asked if I had worked there long. I laughed, "No, I just love to shop."
I was so inspired by his dedication that particular recipe that I made my own barbecue sauce- a not quite traditional New Orleans- style, similar to one I used to get at a restaurant in the Garden District.
-Josie

Josie's Nawlin's Style Barbecue Shrimp