Food from a Farmer

Organic, sustainable and locally grown food is becoming more widely available and mainstream (finally!). Environment-, animal- and people- friendly foods are no longer just a trend- they are a chosen way of life. Sustainability has become an daily issue for chefs in regards to purchasing and menu planning; sustainable fish, produce and meat are all finding their way to restaurant tables. Restaurant menus are no longer as simple as "grilled rib-eye with smashed potatoes." Now you'll read, "Grilled Strawberry Mountain Beef Rib Eye with Organic Smashed Potatoes and Viridian Farms Greens." Local food isn't shipped across the country (or the world). It doesn't waste energy resources in transportation, and connects people to the earth. And when you buy local, you get to talk to the people that raised your food. I spent three hours at a farmer's market in the valley this weekend. It was wonderful. I met farmers, ranchers and artisan producers, sampled their yummy foods and bought two (reusable, cloth!) bags full of food. To see the people that grew those greens, and shake hands with the producers of the goat cheese I bought, was touching. I loved hearing their stories about growing food, seeing their pride in their products, and knowing that my dinner came from just down the road.
-Josie

All About Grilling

Memorial Day seems to be the official opening of Grilling Season. Everyone I know had something on the grill this weekend, whether is was steaks, burgers, chickenor bratwurst. As much as I like grilling, I don't seem to do very much of it (mostly because I don't have my own grill at the moment) and because there's always a grilling "expert" around that does it for me. But, I've learned enough through watching or doing to offer a few suggestions for better barbecue.
-Make sure to clean the grill with a wire brush before you start
-Use tongs instead of a meat fork- when you pierce the meat, you lose those precious juices
-Add the sauces at the end of cooking time- adding barbecue sauce too early causes it to burn, which is not very tasty
-If you're unsure about doneness, use a meat thermometer, and don't forget that meat will continue to cook after you take it off the heat (that means if you want it to be 150 degrees F, pull it from the heat when it's 145 F)
-Let the meat rest for about five minutes before you cut into it to let the juices settle and redistribute
-Try new flavors and combinations, including types of burgers, condiments and breads
I like all burgers- lamb burgers in pitas with tatziki sauce, chicken burgers with chipotle aioli and sliced avocado, and of course, the classic burger. Last weekend, I made a version of the All American BLT Burger. I started by seasoning the hamburger with Worcestershire sauce and minced onion. I grilled it over medium high heat, and just as it finished cooking, I grilled thick wedges of sourdough bread. I added some chopped chives to a little bit of mayonnaise, assembled the burgers; bread, mayo, crisp romaine lettuce, thick, juicy tomatoes, cooked artisan smoked bacon, the burger patty, and the top piece of bread. The weight of the burger held the bacon and vegetables in place, so that it wasn't such a challenge to eat. Mmmmmmm.....
-Josie

Chef Debates

Chefs, like most people, have firm opinions about the way things should work. There are right and wrong ways to do everything. Classic questions arise, and spark great discussion over potential answers. A few examples;
Should you season your meat before or after cooking it? Butter or shortening for pastry? Fresh herbs or dried? The last one rarely finds support in the “dried” corner; most chefs will agree that fresh herbs and spices are always better. And, most of the time, I’m of that mindset too. However, in a few cases, the dried version is more appropriate and fits the recipe better. One example is ginger. In savory recipes, where finely chopped ginger is a key ingredient, the fresh product is necessary. I would never think of adding powdered ginger to a stir fry. But when it comes to my ginger cookies, powdered ginger is ideal. The spices add a novel twist to thick, chewy chocolate chip cookies.

Crystallized ginger is also known as candied ginger; fresh ginger pieces are simmered in syrup until they are tender and then are drained and coated with granulated sugar.
Make sure your spices are fresh though- even if you don’t grind your own cinnamon or nutmeg (which is preferably), check the expiration date. Spices lose their flavor after a few months.
-Josie
Ginger Chocolate Chip Gems

Almost Pad Thai from the Pantry

You've heard it a million times- a well stocked pantry is the key to creating flavorful, enticing meals at home. With a couple of basic staples, some interesting items, condiments, and international ingredients, you can put together just about any dish you can imagine. Obviously, pasta is a great (and fairly economical) choice for quick cook meals. Pasta is filling, elegant, and comforting all at the same time. It can range from classic Italian to Thai to Chinese to American- or even a medley. Use your imagination and what's on hand. Just boil water, get a fork, and prepare to feast..... (Don't forget to pour a glass of wine- the 2005 Anne Amie Riesling from the Willamette Valley would go particularly well. )
Last night, for example, I was in the mood for Thai food. I arrived home late (as per usual) in a hungry/tired/frazzled state. After working with food all day, the last thing I wanted to do was spend hours preparing something elaborate for just me. I did a quick survey of my pantry and refrigerator: some cilantro, scallions, hoisin sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, brown sugar and angel hair pasta. I even found some coconut milk leftover from a previous cooking experiment. Then the wheels started turning.....I was envisioning a version of pad Thai (one of my favorites). Making do with what I had, I made a quick pan sauce with the coconut milk, soy sauce, curry paste and chili paste. Once I boiled the noodles, it was just a matter of tossing it all together. I was so pleased at how simple, quick and fun it had been to make! Now if only cleaning up was as easy and fun. :-)
-Josie

Not Quite Pad Thai Noodles

The Great American Bake Sale

Today, May 19th, Share our Strength begins the fourth annual Great American Bake Sale. The goal this year is to raise $1 million dollars to support education about nutrition, plus school and summer meal programs. To learn how to participate or to host a bake sale, go to http://www.greatamericanbakesale.org/. I'm excited, because now I have an excuse to buy new cake pans and that lovely Guittard chocolate I've been longing for....
-Josie

Cooking is Fun (and yummy)

At least it is supposed to be. It stops being fun when there is to much pressure, too many rules, and too much stress. While reading Jacques Pepin's new book the other day, I learned a lot about him personally. He has accomplished many things in his life, from working around the world in every position imaginable, to washing dishes, to baking bread, and running world class restaurants. I always imagined that he would be very formal in the kitchen, requiring specific techniques and the utmost seriousness. Coincidentally, I saw a TV show where he was cooking with the host. The host was very concerned about formalities- the right dishes, serving spoons, food not touching, not tasting the product, details of ingredients.... Jacques just laughed and poured himself a glass of wine. With one utensil, he spooned the food onto a plate, tasting the sauce as he went and adjusting it with salt and pepper. The plate was beautiful- artfully arrange, but simple. He smiled and said, "there, you see- you should just enjoy yourself. " I wholeheartedly agree.
Play in the kitchen; change the ingredients, technique or style. The best recipes come from experimentation. Make something interesting, season as you go, adjust as necessary, and remember- you can always start over.
-Josie

Shrimp Sauté with Basil and Sambuca

Lesson of the Day Part II- even the pros make mistakes

Although I would hardly consider myself a pro, I generally think of myself as being competent in the kitchen. After all, I work with food for a living! But every now and then, I do something silly that reminds me that every day is an opportunity to learn something (even if it means learning from a mistake). The other night, I was making a Cuban black bean soup. Everything was fine, until I broke a basic kitchen rule- I added my spices to the pot right from the container. In cooking school, I was taught that whenever you add ingredients to a recipe, it’s always a good idea to measure out a certain amount (even if that amount happens to be “some”) and then add it to the rest of the recipe; lest you add more than you need. The same goes for adding eggs- crack them into a bowl rather than into your cake mix, to prevent the unwanted addition of egg shells. With my soup, I was in a rush when it was time to add the cumin (a pungent spice on its own). I shook the jar over the pot. The lid flew off. The entire contents of the jar spread across the top of the soup pot in a thick brown blanket. I attempted to salvage the soup by skimming off the patina of spices, but it had formed a lumpy paste and could not be extracted. I tasted, hopeful. Ick. I added more stock to thin it out. No change. Sigh. Alas, my soup was ruined. I chalked it up to a kitchen lesson and made a sandwich.
Feeling sorry for myself, I recounted the story for Ryan. He confessed that he too, takes kitchen shortcuts occasionally and faces the consequences. Recently, he shared, he learned that it's dangerous to add Tabasco without checking that the stopper is on tight. Even worse than the mistake of painfully hot food- cutting his finger after neglecting to put a wet towel under a cutting board to keep it from sliding (ouch!). So the Lesson of the Day is- be careful when you cut corners in the kitchen!
-Josie

Spice of the Year

Food and Wine magazine always has ideas on how to become a well traveled gourmet. Food and traveling are two of my favorite things, and it’s hard to beat the combination. In a recent issue of the magazine, there was an article about the best new products for the peripatetic epicurean. Including in the list was the spice of the year- Grains of Paradise, as melegueta pepper, Guinea grains, Guinea pepper and alligator pepper.
The spice is native to West Africa and is related to cardamom. In the past, it was an important spice in commerce, especially around the 14th and 15th centuries. Today, it is not used much outside of West and North Africa; in fact, it is one of the hardest spices to find. Imagine a cross between pepper, ginger and cardamom, Grains of Paradise are pungent and aromatic (ironically, it is not related to any of those). Often, they are used to flavor vinegars, beer and wine. Additionally, they are used in herbal remedies and in veterinary medicines. It is just one of the spices in the African collection from Vanns Spice Company. I was first introduced to the spice this spring, when it arrived at the store. I was instantly intrigued by the unique flavor profile.
To try Grains of Paradise, substitute the spice for pepper in marinades or vinaigrettes. It can also be used in the traditional Moroccan spice mix, Ras el Hanout. Ras el Hanout is a mixture of as many as 30 different spices, and is used as a spice rub. Grains of Paradise also adds a nice dimension to eggplant dishes.
-Josie
Grains of Paradise Salad.

Mother's Day

Mother’s day is a day reserved for thanking our mothers and grandmothers. Variations on the holiday are celebrated around the world. While I am grateful for my mother every day, it’s nice to do something “extra” to show her that I care. While thinking about the upcoming holiday this year, I reminisced fondly about all my has mother taught me.
My first cooking experiences happened at my mother’s feet, playing with pans and spoons as she prepared dinner. We baked cookies together for Christmas, made strawberry jam after picking berries in July, and cooked pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving. I am so thankful for all that she taught me, including a love for the kitchen. I found a hobby, a passion and a career because of her.
Once I began cooking full time, my mom allowed me full reign in the kitchen. (I gleefully accepted). A few recipes however, continued to be her specialties. No matter how hard I try, my mother still makes a better pie. My father soundly agrees that my mother’s pie crust is flawless- flaky, delicate and light. She would make Quiche Lorraine for me, with its smooth, flavorful filling and crispy crust. I’ve adapted her recipe to include red bell pepper, for a bit of color, and replaced the bacon with goat cheese for a tangy twist. This recipe is perfect for brunch, lunch or tea. It can be served warm or at room temperature, accompanied by just a fruit salad and coffee. Or, for a more elaborate repast, serve smoky bacon, berry parfaits and mimosas.
-Josie

Josie's Red Bell Pepper and Goat Cheese Quiche

Reader Recipe Request- First Edition

The first edition of our reader recipe requests! I'm very excited to share with you a recipe that I truly adore- Chocolate Chunk Cookies with Pecans, from the lovely Pearl Bakery. I have always loved the Pearl Bakery, and used to go there every Sunday. (Admittedly, I went there more than just Sundays.....) I would always treat myself to something decadent- a crunchy panini with fresh mozzarella, or a delicate croissant, or a dense slice of cornmeal pound cake. But my favorite treat was always the luscious chocolate chunk cookie; the high ratio of chocolate to cookie, the dark, rather than sweet chunks, and the crispy pecans made them irresistible. Lucky for me, they are right down the street... (or maybe unlucky?) Thanks to the wonderful people at the Pearl, you can make these delicacies at home. Now if only I had a glass of cold milk......
-Josie

More on Mushrooms

After reading my post about the morels, Pam asked, "so how do you clean morels?" Good question! I did a bit of research. http://www.foodnotes.com/ provided a lot of this information, but http://www.foodreference.com/ is another great site for food trivia. There are about 20 different species of morel mushrooms. In the wild, they can be identified by tall, pointed caps that have a honeycomb-like surface. Usually, the mushrooms are brown, yellow, or black in color, with have short, hollow stems. Morels are known for their nutty flavor and intense woodsy fragrance.
Once you are lucky enough to acquire morels, treat them carefully. Freshly picked morels can be stored in the refrigerator for two to three days. Fresh morels are difficult to find in grocery stores, as they grow only in temperate regions and appear only in the spring.
To clean them- Cheryl suggests that you place them in a paper bag and shake them to gently loosen any dirt or debris. Then, rinse the mushrooms several times quickly, without soaking them and clean the pits with a fine brush. Mushrooms should never be held under water as they are super absorbent- think of them like a tasty sponge.
Interesting trivia? Morels should always be eaten cooked, as they can irritate the stomach when eaten raw. Large morels can be stuffed, while the smaller mushrooms are ideal for sauces, soups, and stews. Simple recipes are ideal, as they showcase the distinctive morel flavor and aroma perfectly.
-Josie

Lesson of the Day

I have the good fortune of truly loving my job. Everyday, I look forward to going to work. When I'm not at work, I'm thinking about work. Food and writing are my passions- I’m so lucky that they are united in my daily projects. One of the best things about being at In Good Taste is the wealth of information that I’m surrounded by. Foodies are known for their interesting trivia collections, and my wonderful coworkers are no exception. I learn something new everyday. Yesterday for example, we were reflecting on the delicious morel mushrooms that we found in the Farmer’s Market over the weekend. I commented that they were uniquely beautiful. Cheryl pointed out that explained that there are “false morels,” that are lighter in color, with a grayish tint and a less intense flavor. In fact, some of the false morels even cause allergic reactions in some individuals. I had no idea there was such a thing! I can’t wait to see what I learn tomorrow.
-Josie

A Taste of South Africa

On Good Morning America this past Friday, Matt Lauer had a taste of South Africa. He had the good fortune of talking with Giada Delaurentis, who was full of ideas for enjoying the delicious wines from the region. South African wine is becoming quite popular these days. The wines are interesting, flavorful and unique. I've found the wines to be particularly food-friendly, and a nice addition to the wine menu. I recently tried a Pinotage that I liked quite a bit; it's a light red that has just enough spice, without being over powering. If you're interested in trying some of the South African wines, you're in luck. We carry a selection of many South African wines. Barbara is originially from South Africa, so she has first hand experience pairing the wines with native flavors. Whether you are looking for something for a special occasion, or just a weeknight dinner, we can help you pick one that complement your menu perfectly. Cheers!
-Josie

A Sense of Whereverness

It seems like today, any cuisine that you crave is available. It's easy to find Thai, Vietnamese, Spanish, Mexican, Japanese, Mediterranean and Italian restaurants everywhere you go. Portland is lucky to have such a diverse collection of ethnic restaurants. And it's become far easier to find ingredients to prepare those exotic dishes at home. Even average grocery stores have fish sauce, interesting cheeses, rice paper, spices and more. But once you've found those ingredients, what do you do with them? It can be intimidating to peruse the aisle of the store, even more so once you get home. I can't tell you how many times I've gone shopping with lofty plans in mind, bought fun items, and then end up lost as to what to do with all my goodies. It's nice to be able to travel anywhere you want to go in your kitchen, as long as you have a map of some kind. For all that we celebrate Oregon's Bounty here at In Good Taste, we also attempt to offer a world of cuisine that is accessible and fun. In a way, we try to "travel the world for you," bringing back ideas and recipes. We strive to approach those exotic flavors with a relaxed, can-do attitude. That way, you can see how much fun it is to experiment with new ingredients and recipes, and your kitchen can be a gateway to the world.
I think that cooking should always be about new ideas and fun projects- it should never be stressful or intimidating. If you want to try some new flavors and cuisines, here's a small sampling of what's coming up this month. For more ideas, check our website for the full
calendar.
-Josie
May 12 -Italian Vegetarian with Michele Knaus
May 19- Hawaiian Feast
May 30- Indian Street Foods with Leena Ezekiel

A Return to Roots, Rhubarb and Perfect Pie

I recently returned to Portland after several years of working and eating around the world. I’ve had the good fortune of living in cities known for their food (New Orleans and Florence to name a few). Although there are parts of the other cities that I miss, it’s nice to be back in Portland. Our city has so much to offer in the way of food. The city is so in line with my own values; local, sustainable, organic. I love how easy (and delicious) it is “eating local.” Everywhere I go, I find beautiful food, made by artisans or produced by local farmers. The weekday farmers markets are about to open, giving food lovers the chance to shop for edibles almost daily. (I can’t wait! Most recently at the market, I found baby artichokes, baby carrots and radishes. Rhubarb is also in season, and can offer so much more than just a filling for pie. If you’re looking for a quick, seasonal dessert that has maximum flavor, try a crumble. It’s like a crisp, but has oats in the topping for added texture. Don’t forget the vanilla ice cream for serving! The ice cream will melt into a semi sauce that makes this a perfect end to a spring meal. But, if nothing will be as satisfying as a rhubarb pie, learn perfect pie technique from Tim Helea of the Pearl Bakery. Tim will be here tonight to give tips and techniques for flaky pastry that is irresistible.
-Josie

Link to Josie's rhubarb crumble