Fenouil Spring Dinner at In Good Taste

The French call April 1 “Poisson d’Avril”, or April fish. French children sometimes tape a picture of a fish on the back of their schoolmates, crying out, “poisson d’avril” when the prank is discovered.

I don’t usually think anything of April 1st, but this year, I was reminiscing fondly of the succulent halibut that I enjoyed during the Fenouil Spring Dinner Menu with Pascal Chureau. Pascal’s upscale brasserie, Fenouil, has a fantastic menu that is clearly influenced by his French and Moroccan heritage; it features the best of both cuisines. On Friday, March 30th, Pascal taught a fabulous Hands on class featuring spring ingredients and classic French flavors. The class used seasonal, organic ingredients and showcased the best products from local area producers and farmers.

As we entered the store, ready to begin our “lessons” for the evening, we were greeted warmly with sparkling wine and friendly servers. Barbara gave a wonderful introduction, and then Pascal began instruction. He started with a thorough introduction of the recipes, techniques, and ingredients we would be using. After we were comfortable with our tasks, the group of students divided up the recipes and set to work.

The atmosphere was lively and fun, filled with laughter and happy chatter. Pascal circled around the room, helping out wherever he was needed and offering advice. He was assisted by Cheryl, one of the wonderful chefs at In Good Taste. Both of them provided everything we needed and made the cooking process seem effortless. Because of the small class sizes at In Good Taste, all of the classes are very intimate. Guests get to know one another, interact with the chef, and contribute to each recipe. I was able to assist in the preparation of the fragrant Steamed Clams with Pernod and Grilled Baguette, the Watercress Salad with Goat Cheese and Truffled Croutons, as well as the Grilled Halibut with Morel Mushroom Hollandaise and Bacon and Asparagus Fricassee. The spectacular Tarte Tatin that was served for dessert with a hard cider crème fraiche was also prepared in class, but I opted just to watch. Cheryl and Pascal made sure that everyone was enjoying themselves and learning, without feeling overwhelmed or burdened.
When the meal was well on its way to being served, the guests had the opportunity to relax for a few minutes, shop for gastronomic treasures, sip wine, and chat with Pascal. The aromas filling the store were mouthwatering- I couldn't wait to sample our masterpieces!

Servers poured a lovely white wine and began to serve our first course- the salad. The goat cheese had been warmed in the oven and oozed over the salad greens, creating an unctuous sauce that coated my mouth. The happy chatter ceased as everyone began to eat. It was replaced with sighs of pleasure and little exclamations. “Oh my gosh! That is so good!” “Wow!”
While we ate, Pascal finished the clams. Our plates were cleared and replaced with steaming bowls of aromatic broth, redolent of Pernod. While I would have been happy to stop there, it only got better.

They say that hunger is the best sauce. I’m pretty sure that the guests at In Good Taste that night would argue that Pascal’s Morel Mushroom Hollandaise is better. He served the exceptional sauce over a perfectly cooked halibut steak. The fish was moist and juicy- a perfect foil for the delectable sauce. It was accompanied by an asparagus and fingerling potato fricassee with smoked bacon. The smoky flavor gently permeated the vegetables without being overpowering. (Everything really is better with bacon.)

Finally, when we thought that nothing would top the halibut, there was the Tarte Tatin. Crispy pastry filled with sautéed apples in a light caramel sauce was smothered in pillows of hard cider crème fraiche.

Once all of the plates had been cleared, the guests remained at the cozy oak table, sipping coffee and enjoying the company of the chef. All in all, it was an evening of opulence, education, and excellence.
--Josie