Friday, October 31, 2008

The Indian Pantry

Juli Sahni, cookbook author and Indian chef extraordinaire, will be here Wednesday, December 10th to teach a class on the seductions of Indian cooking. I can say "seductions," with Indian food, because more than almost any other cuisine, Indian food is intriguing, complex and mysterious. Every dish consists of many layers of flavor, a medley of spices and a range of textures. When I cook Indian food, I love how it fills my house with a spicy aroma that can make my eyes water. Learning to use spices properly, to create authentic curries and to maximize flavor using aromatics and infused oils takes some time, and a good teacher. Julie has had years of experience, including writing several cookbooks and owning two restaurants. Her class will have the atmosphere of a festive dinner party, complete with food, wine, and a shared table.


If you're tempted by all of this delicious sounding food, but can't wait until the 10th of December- have no fear. Leena Ezekiel, our "mistress of curries" will be here November 6th. Leena is a long-time teacher for In Good Taste, and is enormously popular. It's not hard to see why. Her infectious smile, wealth of knowledge and approachable teaching style are irresistible. Her November 6th class focuses on the different regional curries of India. The hands-on class features a menu of Daab Chingri (Large shrimp cooked with mustard in the water of a tender coconut), Madras Chicken Kari (Tender pieces of chicken thighs cooked in coconut milk and flavored with curry leaves), )Palak Daal), Yellow Mung Beans cooked with fresh spinach and flavored with mild spices and ghee, Idlis, (Steamed Rice and Lentil Batter Cakes) and creamy Raita (Cucumber and Yogurt Salad).


Join Leena for this adventure to India. It'll take you away from the cold November rain into the warm world of spices. And don't forget to save the date for Julie's class next month. It'll add a spark to your December!


Happy Eating!
-Josie

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Happy Halloween

Halloween brings out the kid in everyone. Many of us will dress up in imaginative costumes, set out for bags of treats (or wish that we could), and attend at least one Halloween party. Others will deck out the hours with bats and cobwebs, and play scary music, or even host haunted houses themselves. Trick or treating was always fun, but it was the reward of seemingly endless chocolate afterwards that I really looked forward to. I am obviously too old for trick or treating now, but I still like having chocolate in unlimited quantities whenever possible. Mmmm
If you’re going to throw a Halloween party this year, or would just like to feel like you’ve been trick or treating, make some grown up treats and dress up in creative costumes. I can’t make very many costume suggestions, but I can offer a variety of sweet recipes. Our website has quite a few to offer.
For a centerpiece dessert, try the Black Midnight Cake. You can surround it with Chocolate truffles and chocolate chip cookies. For more chocolate decadence, try the devilish Controne Chocolate Soufflé, creamy Dark Chocolate Pudding, or surprising Dark Chocolate Brownies with Hazelnut Salt.
For non-chocolate treats, whip up a batch of Ginger Cookies, an almond cake, a fall fruit betty, pumpkin creme brulee, or a luscious lemon cake. Because you’ll need something to balance this all out, make a simple soup or pasta ahead of time, so that you can focus on setting up for the fabulous finale. But keep it light- you want to have ample room for the sweet spread to come.

Happy Halloween!

-Josie

Vegetarian Revelry

I rarely prepare vegetarian meals. I have nothing against them, I just really like meat. I’ve often said life without pork is not worth living. All of my own sentiments aside, vegetarian food can be quite good, if you have good ingredients, techniques, and a little bit of know-how. Even if you’re not a vegetarian, it’s good to know how to make vegetarian food. For example, a couple of years ago, I hosted Thanksgiving for a group of friends. The (unplanned) arrival of the vegetarian girlfriend of one of my friends caused quite the awkward meal. Had I known she was coming, I might have been able to make at least one thing she could eat. As it was, nothing on the table was vegetarian. Really. There was the turkey, of course, gravy, and the andouille stuffing, then creamy mashed potatoes (made with chicken stock), and braised green beans with sautéed mushrooms and a light demi -glace. My “sous” chef made luscious bacon studded cornbread (served warm and topped with sage butter…. Wow). Even dessert, which we’d normally assume to be vegetarian friendly, was a sky-high pumpkin chiffon pie (made with gelatin). So. She pouted, and was angry, and I was embarrassed, and the whole even was uncomfortable.
The holidays especially can be difficult for vegetarians, filled with roasts and other traditional meat dishes. This year, you can dine guilt-free and enjoy this buffet of delicious vegetarian dishes inspired by the cuisines of the countries on the Mediterranean! This menu is designed to tempt both vegetarians and omnivores of all ages. You will take the best of local produce and add a few exotic touches to create dishes you will make over and over, not just for special occasions. In this hands-on class, Maya Klein will guide you through a multitude of techniques, including preparing vegetarian “meatballs”, making pizza dough, cooking pilaf, grilling tofu, roasting vegetables, and preparing a layer cake. Your vegetarian friends will thank you.
The class will be held on Sunday, November 2, at 2:00 PM.

Happy Eating (for everyone)!
-Josie

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Forgotten Grains

Great articles in the NYT Dining section last week. There was a front page article on new cookbooks and the development of, including a reference to David Tanis’ new book, A Platter of Figs, and David’s simply stunning recipe for Steamed Fennel with Pepper Oil. (David, by the way, will be here today for a book signing and cooking demonstration- and I’m very excited to meet him. Also, I am very much looking forward to a taste of the demonstration of Double Roasted Duck Breasts with Aged Balsamic...)
The other interesting article was by Mark Bittman, on Kasha. Kasha, the slightly uninteresting, obscure Eastern grain made from toasted hulled buckwheat, is not particularly versatile. At least I haven’t fallen for it yet. Perhaps someday. Of course, not everyone agrees with Mark Bittman; the comments on his recipe ranged from adamant professions of love to traditional affection for the grain.
Regardless of my opinion of kasha, the article reminded me of another forgotten grain (one that I really do like) - farro. Faro has gained popularity in the last few years, finding its way onto trendy menus in San Francisco, Seattle and beyond. (For example, Elizabeth Faulkner’s restaurant Orson features a side dish of farro, grilled peach, crescenza, and scallion). Even though it has found its way onto popular menus, it still isn’t available in the average grocery store. I discovered it while I was in Italy several years ago. I was pleased to find it at In Good Taste. I took a bag of it home and started to experiment. I’ve found that it takes a while to cook, and like other grains and beans, benefits from soaking before cooking.
So, now that you know where to find it, what do you do with it? It can be used similarly to barley or even rice, as in this earthy version of risotto. This goes well with roast pork or veal.
Happy Eating!
-Josie

Farro Risotto with Sage

Friday, October 24, 2008

Beaker and Flask

Beaker and Flask, the long awaited restaurant featuring executive chef Beaker and Flask Benjamin Bettinger and cocktail creator Kevin Ludwig, Park Kitchen's former cocktail guru, will be featured in our upcoming Dinner and Cocktails class. Beaker & Flask will celebrate creative ingredients, forgotten cocktails and overlooked spirits, including classic Tiki drinks, vinegars and gastriques as mixers and Italian amaros. Benjamin will be preparing a spectacular menu that echoes the future menu of Beaker and Flask. It includes:

Beaker & Flask Seasonal Bar Food
Served upon arrival with Salt & Pepper (Gin, Peychaud's Bitters, Grapefruit, lime and salted rim)


Pork Terrine with Pickled Squash and Roasted Onion Jam
Harvest Cocktail (Pear Eau de Vie with Kevin’s surprise twist)


Grilled Rabbit Salad On a bed of Seasonal Greens
Viking Quest (Krogstad Aquavit, Campari and homemade Chinato)


Braised Beef Cheeks With homemade Gnocchi


Local Pear and Hazelnut Tart
Seasonal Cordial


The class will be held Monday, November 3rd at 6:30 pm.

Cheers!


-Josie

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Although it’s not news to most that the seasons have changed, the weather today reminded me that fall is here to stay. Glancing outside at the bright sunlight and blue sky yesterday, it was easy to imagine that it was still warm outside. Not so much. But, even without warm temperatures, I love the fall. With all the beautiful leaves changing and the bounty of fall produce, how can I not look forward to fall?
The cool weather brings in the winter squash harvest. Look for varieties including pumpkins, big and small, gourds, butternut squash, delicata squash, sweet dumpling squash, turban squash, spaghetti squash, kabocha squash, Hubbard squash, and acorn squash. You can roast them, steam and then puree them, or slice and sauté them. Dress any cooked winter squash with butter and herbs, a cream sauce, cheese sauce, maple syrup and toasted nuts, marinara sauce or fruit compote. Save the seeds- they make delicious, crunchy toppings when toasted. I cut up four medium sized pumpkins last weekend, steamed them all, pureed them, all with the intention of making enough pie for my family and some friends. I ended up with enough pumpkin for pie for the neighborhood. While pureed pumpkin does freeze well (you can store it in freezer safe Ziplocs), my freezer is pretty well packed. It has been, therefore, a squash based weekend!
For breakfast, we’ve had Spicy Pumpkin-Ginger Muffins. Lunches have featured a creamy Butternut Squash Soup with toasted Pumpkin Seeds and Crème Fraiche. Dinner last night was Penne with Pumpkin and Parmesan- a simple and tasty variation on the now ubiquitous Butternut Squash Ravioli. There’s still a bit left in the refrigerator… looks like we’ll be having more pie after all.


Happy Eating!




-Josie


Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Tip of the Day

Like everything else in life, cooking is continual learning process. You can never know it all. I learn something every time I turn around. One of the joys and benefits of working with chefs and foodies is that they always share some new tidbit of knowledge, about products, ingredients or recipes. Each conversation presents a new opportunity to learn something.
This week, I’ve learned about Jamaica, a hybiscus flower blossom. It makes a lovely, citrusy beverage sweetened with a little sugar. (It’s pronounced ha-my-icka).

Other good tips I’ve gathered this week:
· One teaspoon allspice equals about 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves.
· Baking powder has a useful shelf life of around one year. To test it for freshness, add a teaspoon of it to a cup of hot water. (If it does not fizz like Alka Seltzer, it's time to buy a new can).
· If you need to make whipped cream ahead of time, add a small amount of dissolved unflavored gelatin (about 1/4 teaspoon per cup of cream). This will help hold the whipped cream together.

Please share the things you’ve learned in and around the kitchen!
Happy eating!

-Josie
Hazelnuts are in season- the harvest is in full swing in Oregon. These tasty nuts are good with just about everything, from breads to salads to chicken. They make a great snack. But my favorite way to enjoy these NW nuts are in cookies. The delicate crunch and delicious flavor goes improves any cookie in my mind. I like to have these with afternoon tea. My friend makes a similar version of these cookies, using almonds and apricot jam. But because it is hazelnut season, I modified the recipe to use hazelnuts instead of almonds. You can use just about any nut that you like- walnuts would also work well. I chose blackberry jam as a nod to the NW, but raspberry might be nice too.

Happy Eating!
-Josie


Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Savor the Festival of Lights

On Saturday, October 25, Leena Ezekiel will be teaching a class celebrating the foods of Diwali, the Indian festival of lights.
Diwali or Deepavali is a major Hindu festival. For Indians there is no bigger occasion than Diwali. It symbolizes the victory of good over evil. On this day the Hindu God - King Rama - returned home to His Kingdom of Ayodhya after defeating the Demon King Ravana.
It also marks the beginning of the Hindu New Year (a lunar calendar). People exchange gifts and sweets, many wear new clothes, clean and paint their homes and some families make large investments of gold and silver. It is considered an auspicious day to open new businesses and make investments.
Lakshmi Puja, the day of worship for the Goddess of Wealth, is also celebrated on Diwali and businessmen open new books of accounts on this day. Every home is brightly illuminated with small oil lamps. Doors and windows are left open and lights left burning all night, so that Goddess Lakshmi can enter your home and bring blessings for the coming year. Homemade sweets and desserts are prepared weeks ahead and are distributed to friends and neighbors. Children play with fireworks all night long and there is an atmosphere of festivity and celebration everywhere.
This year Diwali falls on October 28. In Good Taste and Leena Ezekial join together to highlight this most spectacular and joyous of Indian celebrations.
Leena will be preparing a traditional Indian holiday menu, featuring dishes such as Pooris, a Light and puffy deep-fried Indian festive breads, Karahai Gosht, spicy lamb with onions and green bell peppers, flavored with hints of Indian spices, Chana Daal, yellow lentils slow-simmered with whole spices, raisins and fresh coconut, Alloo Dam, whole small potatoes simmered in a hot spicy sauce, Pineapple Chutney, Besan Laddoos, a traditional Diwali sweet made with garbanzo bean flour and clarified butter, and Sooji Halwa, Semolina halwa made with ghee (clarified butter) and garnished with raisins and almonds.
If you love Indian food and customs, don’t miss this chance to peek into the depths of the culture. Each guest will be treated to traditional gifts. The room will be decorated with the traditional flowers and lights of this very festive holiday. Dress up in your finest Indian silks and come celebrate the festival of lights!
-Josie

Friday, October 17, 2008

Nothing like NY

No matter how much alike we are, there are real differences between people from the West Coast and East Coast. The accent, for one thing, is noticeable. But of course, I look at food before anything else. There are very different attitudes towards food between the two. East Coasters are crazy about delis. I can say this because I’ve witnessed it. My dear friend Sue is from the East Coast and introduced me to true New York deli food. While we were living in California, she would order legitimate NY deli food to be overnighted to her. Bags of New York style bagels, boxes of sliced meats and cheeses would arrive on the doorstep, packed in ice. It was like Christmas year around. I miss her (and I miss having all that yummy food around). While I do not fully understand the deli meat fetish, I do understand general food biases and obsessions. Such as my unwavering loyalty to Dungeness crabs (I’ve been eating and catching them myself my whole life). I love fresh Dungeness crab, and feel strongly that it is the only crab for crab cakes, (but it is just one of the requirements for perfect crab cakes- which is another post entirely).

Since she moved back to the East Coast, she has been able to satisfy her East Coast cravings without the assistance of FedEx.

If you too, are stranded on the West Coast, without access to great New York style bagels, find a solution at Michael Zusman's New York Style Bagel Class on Sunday, October 19. You'll learn how to make the quintessential East Coast bagel, including variations on the plain version like pumpernickel and poppy seed. After you've learned the secrets to spectacular bagels, you can feast on a bagel spread complete with lox, cream cheese, and all the other bagel fixings you desire. After that, you can start your own mini bagel factory in your kitchen, and feel like you're back home on the East Coast. The feast begins at 1:00 pm.
-Josie

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Terriffic Tarragon




I recently rediscovered tarragon. It’s a quintessential ingredient in fines herbes, goes well with chicken and egg dishes, and it makes béarnaise sauce, béarnaise sauce. But for whatever reason, I’d stopped cooking with it. I hadn’t made a béarnaise in ages, and just about forgotten about fines herbes altogether. Then I saw some beautiful fresh tarragon at the market last weekend. Something prompted to buy it, which ended up being the beginning of my renewed love of the herb. I find myself using it more than ever before.
Tarragon is a perennial herb. It is somewhat related to sage and mugwort. The leaves are dark green, long and slender, with an aromatic, licorice/anise smell. The taste is a bit bittersweet and herbaceous.
It complements mushrooms, chicken, peas, spinach, greens, zucchini, corn, potatoes, eggs, and pasta. It makes an excellent addition to salads, in vinaigrette or just mixed with the greens. I’ve used the vinaigrette for grilled fish, as a marinade for chicken, and as a dressing for potato salad too- it’s amazingly versatile.


Happy Cooking!-Josie


Quick Tarragon Vinaigrette
In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar with ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper. Whisk in 1/ 2 cup olive oil. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves. It goes beautifully with butter lettuce and radishes, or with steamed new potatoes.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Discovering the Lobster Mushroom

For a mere minute this fall, lobster mushrooms are available and delicious. The Lobster Mushroom gets its name from the bright red color of the mushroom. This mushroom is a great addition to dish, not only because of its beautiful color, but also for its firm texture and delicate flavor.
Because the mushroom is so firm, it’s considered to be very “meaty”, even more so than a Portobello. Between September and November, they are harvested in the mountains in the Pacific Northwest.


I worked at restaurant once that served a lobster- mushroom salad. The description below the title was, “sautéed mushrooms, warm vinaigrette, wilted greens.” Eventually, the menu had to be changed because guests kept complaining when they were presented with the dish: apparently most people expected a salad of mushrooms and lobster, not a pile of sautéed lobster mushrooms in warm vinaigrette with grilled bread and wilted greens.


I’ve found that I really like flavor of Lobster Mushrooms with eggs, like in an omelet or a quiche. A simple sauté of lobster mushrooms, lightly glazed with Marsala, and served over grilled or toasted bread is an easy and elegant starter for any fall menu.

-Josie



Sautéed Lobster Mushrooms with Marsala

1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1.5 lbs lobster mushrooms cut into 1/3 inch slices mushrooms, halved if large or left whole if small
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 oz minced garlic
½ cup Marsala
3 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
2 teaspoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Place a large skillet over high heat. Heat the olive oil and when it’s hot, and then add the mushrooms in a single layer. When the mushrooms have begun to caramelize, stir the mushrooms quickly and add a pinch of salt. Continue to cook for about 5 minutes, tossing or stirring occasional, until well browned.
Add a bit of pepper and the garlic. Cook 2 more minutes, or until the garlic has browned and the mushrooms have softened. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate, and add the butter to the skillet. When the butter has melted, add the Marsala and bring to a simmer. When the liquid has reduced and thickened, return the mushrooms to the pan, toss with the glaze and the herbs, and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with toasted or grilled bread.

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Two days, Three Classes, A Lot of Good Food

It seems like no matter what we end up doing this weekend, there will be good food that will fill every craving. At our Lake Oswego location on Saturday, Barb Randall will be teaching a Hands on Hearty Harvest Feast, using only local ingredients. In fact, some of the ingredients are from her own garden. In the Pearl location on Saturday, Michel Stroot journeys to Vietnam with classic dishes like Rice Paper Rolls with Crab and Salmon, Sweet –and- Sour Fish Soup, and Shrimp and Green Papaya Salad. Then on Sunday, Maya Klein will teach a Hands on Sushi class in the Pearl. You’ll enjoy Miso Soup, Rolled Sushi and Pressed Sushi. With all that’s going on here, there’s no reason not to eat well. two days, three classes, and a lot of cooking! With all the new ideas and recipes you’ll have after a weekend of culinary classes, the menu for the week ahead will look awfully good!

Happy Eating!

-Josie

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Good Evening Vietnam

Even though I really don’t mind the rainy season, it takes some getting used to. I’m not quite through the adjustment period of shorter days, colder weather, and being wet.
If you’re having the same weather adjustment problem I am, look to sunnier climates for warmer flavors and fresh flavors. Michel Stroot, who served as executive chef of The Golden Door Resort and Spa for over 30 years, is bringing Vietnam, and the Golden Door Spa, to In Good Taste. The Belgian-born chef combines classic French techniques and European sensibilities with the freshest foods at the market. As a chef, Michel has helped to define a bold style of cooking that is at once light and luxurious. He’ll prepare a mouthwatering spread of classic dishes, including Sweet and Sour Fish Soup , Imperial Rice studded with shrimp, scallions and cilantro, Shrimp and Green Papaya Salad, Spring rolls filled with salmon, shrimp and crab, and Candied Crème Brulee. Michel has a wonderful teaching style and years of experience to share. Spend the evening with Michel Stroot and travel to warm, tropical climates, bright flavors, and delicious Vietnamese recipes.
The class will be held Saturday October 11 at 6:30 PM.
-Josie

Monday, October 6, 2008

Ways to Escape the Rain

It was raining when I woke up yesterday. (And when I went to bed). All I wanted to do was curl up inside. But, as a native Oregonian, I know I'll adjust (but boy, the first couple of weeks are hard!) One thing that always helps take the chill off is a warm and hearty meal. There's nothing like sitting down to a steaming bowl of beef stew, or a tasty pot roast on a cold, rainy day. I was lucky enough to enjoy Molly Steven's class on braising yesterday. Just in time for the coming of the fall season, her cozy menu included Osso Buco alla Milanese, Butternut Mashed Potatoes
Lemon-Roasted Green Beans with Marcona Almonds, and a Dark Chocolate Tart with Gingersnap Crust. Really, it was so good, we didn't notice the weather.

Inspired by Molly, I'm making a braised pork shoulder for dinner tonight. By the time it has cooked for 6 hours, it will be fork tender and falling off the bone. It is filling the house with delicious aromas as I write.

For more ideas to help you adjust to the change in weather, try some of our warming upcoming classes. Barb Randall will be teaching a Hands on Hearty Feast at our Lake Oswego location on October 11, featuring Oregon Black Cod Bundles, Warm Grilled Fennel, Broccoli Custard, and Baked Stuffed Hood River Pears. Or, come to our Hands on Tuscan Feast on October 13th, when you'll savor a tasty White bean soup, Stuffed Pork Roulade, White Truffle Potato Puree, and a Citrus Olive Cake.



I'm definitely ready for dinner now! Happy Eating!

-Josie

Thursday, October 2, 2008

An End and A Beginning

I love summer. A large part of is due to the weather, but the whole truth is that the produce has almost as much to do with it. I get endless pleasure from going out to my garden and harvesting a bounty of fresh and delicious food. The basil and tomatoes are my favorites, but I also have a fondness for the peppers and zucchinis and beans…. (and everything else really). I’m almost sad to see it coming to an end. I try to follow the locavore philosophy and eat in season, no matter how difficult that is. It means no more tomatoes until the spring. The only basil I’ll have is from a greenhouse or my freezer. And the squash will be of the winter variety. Which brings me to my point. Winter squash is starting to creep into the market. With all end-of-summer lamentations aside, the fall harvest is delightful in its own right. Root vegetables of every variety, fall corn, lots of apples and pears, hazelnuts, fall greens, onions, Brussels spouts, broccoli and (and my absolute favorite)- mushrooms! I will say this for the wet and soggy Oregon fall- it is the ideal place for mushrooms. And that, in itself, almost makes up for all those days with wet commutes and matted hair. In addition to modifying our grocery lists and menus, it’s time to modify the cooking methods. While the summer is ideal for quick sautés and constant grilling, fall brings on the braising, slow cooking, and stewing. It may take longer overall to cook with these methods, but the “active” time is pretty minimal. You can start it, walk away for an hour (or more) and not worry about a dish in a slow cooker or stock pot. The more I think about it, the more I’m looking forward to the rich and hearty fall flavors. To get your fall food focus, try Pork Chops with Tapenade. Pork, rosemary and olives blend together in a flavorful dish that needs little more than a side of pasta tossed with olive oil.

For more ideas on fall flavors and cooking methods, join Molly Stevens Sunday October 5th for A Hands on Braising class. Molly has a wealth of knowledge and experience to share, as well as a delightful menu of slow cooked deliciousness. The menu includes Wild Mushroom Ragout on Crispy Polenta with Comte Cheese, Tuna Steaks Braised with Radicchio, Chickpeas & Rosemary, Flank Steak Involtini with Prosciutto & Pine Nut Filling, Braised Pork Chops & Creamy Cabbage, and Veal and Ricotta Polpettone Braised in Tomato Sauce over Hand-made Pasta. The class will begin at 2:00 PM.

-Josie