Thursday, March 29, 2007

The Salt Experiments

While browsing the store the other day, I happened to find a jar of Chardonnay Smoked Salt. Just the title was exciting- wine and salt in one! The artisan salt comes from France and is smoked is smoked over old Chardonnay bottles barrels which impart a deep oaky flavor into the salt crystals. I was inspired to do a bit of my own salty experiments. In Good Taste has so many salts that it is hard to know where to begin. Among them are two from Casina Rossa, a family run Italian villa with a variety of artisan products. Interestingly enough, the salts that they sell are categorized as “condiments.” Finishing salts really are condiments of sorts; with just a sprinkle, you can add color, texture, and, of course, flavor. What’s wonderful about these salts is their crystal, their crunch, sometimes their color, but always their unique and particular effects on food. Smoked Salt can add depth of flavor, black salt adds interest, and fleur de sel adds crunch.
Casina Rossa produces two salts. The Truffle Salt is a fantastic grey color, with a very fine texture, almost like confectioner’s sugar. The saffron salt is a gorgeous deep yellow color, like powdered gold. Reminiscing fondly of recent paella that I made, I decided to try pasta with prawns and saffron butter. Saffron is a natural pairing for shellfish, and a sweet but mild butter sauce is a perfect vehicle for the marriage of flavors.
After boiling and draining fettuccine noodles, I melted butter in a large sauté pan. I added large peeled shrimp and watched as they gradually turned carnation pink. When they had cooked through, I pulled the pan off the heat, dropped the drained noodles into the skillet. Then I sprinkled the pan with the saffron salt, and tossed thoroughly to coat. I noticed the lovely gold color permeated the noodles and shrimp; the entire dish took on a glowing color. I coiled a pile of fragrant noodles and the shrimp onto a serving plate, sprinkled with a touch more salt, and took a bite. The unctuous butter sauce had an indescribable flavor. The first bite carried a heavy taste of saffron, but as I ate, the intensity mingled perfectly with the neutrality of the fettuccine and sweetness of the shrimp.
The saffron salt imparted a beautiful color, a mouthwatering aroma, and a depth of flavor that is inimitable. This luxury is not to be reserved for every day.

-Josie

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