Saturday, November 26, 2011

Dry Brining


Over the past few weeks I have been blogging about seasoning with salt.  This is a very important topic for me because I feel that seasoning is an important technique that can help a cook make their food taste better.  But, at the same time learning to season is probably one of the most difficult culinary techniques to master. 

In today's blog I wanted to share one of my favorite seasoning techniques, dry brining.  Last week I blogged about wet brining (Brining), which is a great technique for seasoning foods, because it adds moisture.  But the one big drawback of wet brining is that the excess moisture can dilute the flavor of meat.  Dry brining offers many of the same benefits of wet brining, but doesn't hide the flavor of the meat.

My first introduction to the technique of dry brining came from Chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Cafe in San Fransisco, CA.  One of her specialities is roast chicken, which is out of this world.  I didn't know her secret until I purchased her cookbook and read about her approach of dry brining, a technique she uses often at Zuni.

Dry brining is actually very simple, but requires a little knowledge of the processes involved to master the technique.  The first step is to season the cut of meat.  Red Diamond Kosher salt works best.  Sprinkle all sides with the salt.  Next cover the meat and refrigerate to allow the process to play out.  Once the salt is added to the meat, it will draw moisture out.  Just like wet brining the salt will actually dry out the meat.  Next the salt dissolves in the water from the meat forming a small amount of wet brine around the meat.  Just like wet brining the meat wants to create homeostasis (the balance of liquid) and draws the salty water back into the muscle fibers.  Once the salt is drawn back in it breaks downs the connective tissues between the muscle fibers making the meat tender.  And since the salt is drawn to the center, the meat is seasoned from the inside out, which greatly improves flavor.

Dry brining uses the natural moisture in meat, with no additional water incorporated.  This means that the natural flavors of the meat are accentuated.  The process of dry brining also acts to preserve meats, extending their shelf life.

A couple of notes about dry brining:
  1. Use a little less salt than would normally be used to season a piece of meat that is going to be immediately cooked.  Dry brining allows for all the salt applied to incorporate with the meat, so less is needed.
  2. Allow enough time for the meat to go through the entire process.  Cooking the meat before the reverse osmosis is complete will result in dry meat.  I dry brine whole chickens and smaller cuts of meats, like steaks, for 2 days.  Larger cuts of meats (double cut pork chops) for 3 days.  And whole roast for 4 to 5 days. 
  3. Aromatics for flavor - Once you master the dry brining technique try adding aromatics, such as herbs and garlic, or spices for flavor.  Just like wet brining the flavors will be absorbed into the meat. 
If you are interested in trying dry brining, it is best to start with a small cut of meat, like a rib eye.  It takes a little practice, but once mastered this technique will give amazing results.

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