The Art of Bacon Lardons

Adam and I just wrapped up our third Culinary Boot Camp here at In Good Taste. And while all of the food was amazing it was the bacon that stood out. As a class we cured, dried and smoked our own bacon. On the first day we cured a Tails & Trotters pork belly. After 3 days of curing we rinsed the pork belly and dried it overnight to form the pellicle. The pellicle is formed by air drying cured meats for 24 hours under refrigeration. This is an important step, because the pellicle creates a skin on the belly that allows for the smoke to stick during the smoking process. After all of our hard work we put our bacon to good use; layering it on cheeseburgers, pan frying lardons for quiches and omelets, and snacking. Of course each student took a good chunk home for their future bacon endeavors.

Bacon is great on its own, but when added to dishes it imparts smoky flavors, richness and a bit of saltiness. And the best wayto incorporate bacon into dishes is the lardon. Probably one of my favorite bacon preparations, the lardon is a strip of bacon, usually 3/8 inch by 3/8 inch and 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. But, there is much more to the lardon than just its shape and size.

Bacon lardons are quickly cooked in a hot pan, allowing the outside to get crispy and golden brown, while the inside stays moist, soft and a little fatty. And these little treasures of bacon love are great in salads, quiches, sprinkled on potatoes, or even better, cooked on a tart. The great thing about a perfectly cooked bacon lardon is that it gives off a little fat when it is cooked into a dish, adding an extra layer of richness. The French Tarte Flambé Alsatian is a classic example of the lardon's legacy. Crispy lardons are sprinkled over this classic onion tart just before it goes into a wood fired oven. As the tart cooks, fat from the bacon renders and drips over the side of the tart, where it creates little flames that lick up around the side of the tart and add flavor.

Next time you cook with bacon try the lardon! Also, here's my recipe for maple cured bacon.

[Photo courtesy of Daryl Ann Yeany]

Another connection to home- Wine and Food with Chef John Ash

As much as I've loved my culinary classes, and all the cooking we've done, the 9 week introduction is over after exams. (The week looms in front of me…. Report on that to follow shortly). Beginning on Monday, we will be in Wine Studies, which is the initial reason I wanted to come to Greystone. The class will be an intensive course on all things related to wine, including food and wine pairings. The curriculum for the class was designed in part by John Ash, who was a favorite faculty member in the wine studies program here at Greystone in the 1990s. Chef Ash has an extensive background in food, wine, and California cuisine, and has left a legacy around the valley. I regret that I won't get to take a class from him myself, but I expect a full report on the wonderful class he will teach at In Good Taste on September 29. I wish I could be there! Luckily, I'll be following a similar class at the origin of those delicious recipes here in Napa.

Don't miss this opportunity to "travel" to Napa !

-Josie

Vindalho

Last night, David Anderson of Vindalho taught a class at In Good Taste. As all my friends know, I love Indian food so I was naturally the first person to sign up for the class. We had a great group of people. Everyone in the group loves Indian food; they love to travel and were happy to share their experiences with everyone else.

David did a great job. He shared his passion for the food of India and it's culture, and he told us lots of stories about his time in India. We all felt like we were on our own culinary adventure to the Goan region of India. His food was bright and vivid, and oh so tasty!

Some of the things we learned included the following:

1. How to crack a fresh coconut (Hit the coconut with the back of a sturdy knife, all the way around the "equator" of the coconut, until the liquid pours out and the husk is cracked open).
   
2. The easiest way to remove the white flesh of the coconut is to bake the two halves inverted on a baking sheet (face down) for 15 – 20 minutes at 375°F.
   
3. Masala means "spice mixture".
   
4. "Garam" means "Warm" so garam masala means "warming spice mixture"
   
5. Use a coffee grinder to grind spices. Most chefs have two: one for coffee and one for spices.
   
6. Clean the spice grinder by putting some raw rice in the container and grinding it.
   
7. David finds that the Arbol chillies are the closest to the chilies he had in Goa.
   
8. He uses the Maryhill peaches from Washington to make his peach chutney as they are firm and easy to peel.
   
9. David served a dish of shredded beans which he cut in the Cuisinart with the slicing disk. It was so easy and so quick.
   

The highlight of the class was the Mussels in the most tantalizing curry sauce. David told us that the sauce works equally well for shrimp or other seafood. I can't wait for David's next class.

Inspiration: From chefs, the market and the season

Have I mentioned that I love my job? I work in a creative, exciting, food-oriented atmosphere; I get to cook, and then write about cooking. What's not to like? The other benefit to working here is that I get the chance to meet people that I admire,that inspire me to be a better chef, and that have interests similar to mine.

This week, I had the great fortune to interview Benjamin Bettinger, the chef de cuisine at Paley's Place. It was a wonderful interview; Chef Ben was so personable and kind! He was very generous with his time, and more than happy to answer my questions. I was so entertained by our conversation that I didn't want to leave. I was immediately impressed with his passion for cooking and his amazing knowledge of food. It was hard not to see the passion; his descriptions of ingredients, shopping and cooking were incredibly vivid. I could sense his excitement when he talked about the upcoming peach harvest, and the soon- to- arrive whole pig at Paley's next week. It's so much fun for me to talk to people that find as much joy in shopping for food as I do. His energy inspired me to go to the market right away and create some fabulous seasonal dish. (Or make dinner reservations at Paley's!)

The good news is that Benjamin will be back to teach another class at In Good Taste in the fall. I can't wait!

To read the full interview with Chef Bettinger, click here.

-Josie