Top Ten Pantry Items

Start the year off right with new items for the pantry... Jeremy Niehuss has provide his list of must-have pantry items for you.

Kosher Salt – Salt is the most important ingredient in the kitchen. Kosher salt has become an industry standard for seasoning in a professional kitchen. The grains are large, making it easier to season and control the amount of salt used. For general seasoning I prefer Red Diamond kosher salt, because they do not use chemical additives, such as anti-caking agents.


Maldon Sea Salt – Generally, as a chef I always season food as I cook, but sometimes a dish benefits from a small amount of salt just prior to serving. When I need a special salt to finish a dish, I almost always use Maldon Sea Salt. The large flakes of Maldon add a delightful crunchy texture. It is hand harvested from natural salt beds where the flakes develop their complex flavors from the minerals present. It’s this patient process that gives Maldon Sea Salt unparalleled flavor and texture.

Salt Works Black Truffle Salt – If you like black truffles, then you will love this salt. Artisan Salt Company out of Woodinville, Washington offers many different salts infused with exciting and unique flavors. Their black truffle salt is a blend of pure sea salt and Italian black truffles. Perfect sprinkled on foods like French fries, popcorn, pastas and potatoes.

Tellicherry Peppercorns – If salt is the most important ingredient in the kitchen, then peppercorns take a close second. Pepper plays an important role in seasoning savory foods, but often we don’t give a second thought about reaching for the tin of pre ground pepper. But, the truth is, much like good coffee, peppercorns loose most of their flavor once they are ground. At In Good Taste we use Tellicherry peppercorns for their rich, complex and aromatic flavor that develops because they are picked from the top of the plant where they tend to be riper and larger. Tellicherry peppercorns come from the Malabar Coast of India

Vinegars – Quality vinegar, is not only the foundation of a good vinaigrette, it also adds complexity to food by providing a balance to richness and sweetness.

La Vecchia Balsamic Vinegar – Good balsamic is expensive and bad balsamic is, well frankly, horrible. So what’s the budget minded chef to do? Use La Vecchia black cap balsamic. This balsamic vinegar is aged for 6 years giving it a slightly syrupy consistency and rich caramel flavors. La Vecchia Black Cap balsamic vinegar is perfect in vinaigrettes, marinades or for just dipping bread. Try drizzling this vinegar over grilled meats or vegetables.

Sanchez Romate Reserva Sherry Vinegar – Good sherry vinegar is the cornerstone of Spanish cuisine. With so many brands of sherry vinegar to choose from, I almost exclusively use Sanchez Romate Reserva sherry vinegar. This sherry vinegar has smooth and velvety taste with a slight caramel sweetness followed by a pleasant tart finish. This vinegar is aged for 3 years in oak barrels giving it a complexity that is unpatrolled in the world on vinegars.

Unio Moscatel Vinegar – Because this vinegar is made from the Muscat grape it has a very fruity and floral aroma with hints of nectar, blossoms and honey. The vinegar is flavor forward with a pleasant acid undertone that is not overbearing or harsh.

Beaufor French Vinegars – Beaufor is a French company that makes a full line of artisan vinegars. All of their vinegars show the flavors of the grapes used to make them and have well balanced acidity. We use Beaufor Champagne, white wine and red wine vinegars here at In Good Taste.

Unio Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Extra Virgin Olive Oil is an essential pantry ingredient. While there are hundreds of types and brands of olive oils on the market, I prefer Unio Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Spain. Unlike its spicy and often bitter Italian counterparts, Unio is a rich and buttery extra virgin olive with a fruit forward flavor.

Grapeseed Oil – Grape seed oil plays an important role in our cooking school. Its neutral flavor combined with a high smoking point makes it the best choice for vinaigrettes, pan searing, sautéing, baking and making emulsified dressings, such as aioli or Caesar. Grape seed oil is also rich in antioxidants making it a healthier choose for those health conscience cooks.

Freddy Guy’s Pure Hazelnut Oil – Cold pressed with local hazelnuts, Freddy Guy’s hazelnut oil has a clean hazelnut flavor, without any bitter flavors. Freddy Guy’s hazelnut oil is best used in simple preparations, allowing its amazing flavor to come through. Drizzled over grilled meats or added to a vinaigrette, this oil will add a whole you dynamic layer to your cooking!

Paprika (Pimenton) - Paprika is one of my favorite spices. It adds character and flavor to dishes without adding spice. Paprika, called Pimenton in Spain, is arguably the most important spice in Spanish cuisine, playing an important role in preparations including Chorizo and Paella. I am very partial to El Rey de la Vera Pimenton.

Dijon Mustard – In the pantry no one item is as versatile as good French Dijon mustard. Dijon has a clean and tart flavor that adds sharpness to foods. It also contains an important ingredient called mucilage, which is a sticky substance that helps create emulsifications, in preparations like aioli and Caesar salad dressing. Spending a little more money on a better quality Dijon is worth it. I am very partial to Fallot brand Dijon, although Beaufor makes great mustards as well.

Top Ten Cooking Tips

Just in time for the Holidays here's a gift from In Good Taste to you.  We put together 10 great cooking tips to help you in the kitchen over the holidays. 

1. Saute Technique - To help keep food from sticking always heat the pan first and then add the oil.  Heating the pan first allows the pores to open and fill with oil.  This prevents the food from getting stuck in the pores of the pan.
2. Peeling Garlic - Here's a quick way to peel garlic.  Break apart the head of garlic and put the cloves in a metal container with a lid.  A coffee can or a metal bowl with a plate over the top works great.  Shake the garlic in the container until the skins release.  Open the container and remove the peeled cloves leaving the skins behind.
3. Mise en Place - This French term means everything in its place.  Before cooking chefs prepare all their ingredients and arrange them in the order of the recipe.  Mise en place helps guide the cook through the recipe.  Mise en placing also helps ensure all ingredients have been prepped before cooking begins.
4. Timer for Baking - Always use a timer when baking.  Baked goods usually have a very small window of doneness.  Baked goods can go from perfectly baked to over cooked in a matter of 30 seconds.  Initially set the timer for 75% of the required baking time.  If more time is required continue resetting the timer for 50% of the remaining bake time.  Say a recipe calls for a cake to bake for 40 minutes.  The timer will be set for 30 minutes to start.  If after 30 minutes the cake needs more time, the timer is set for 5 minutes (1/2 of the remaining 10 minutes).  If after 5 minutes the cake needs more time, the timer is set for 2 1/2 minutes (1/2 of the remaining 5 minutes) and so on until the cake is done. 
5. Digital Thermometer - Digital thermometers are a great tool to help determine the doneness of food.  From cooking meats to temperature to cooking custards, thermometers are a necessary tool.  I prefer digital thermometers for accuracy.  If using an analog thermometer make sure it has been calibrated first.
6. Read the Recipe - Always read the entire recipe through before starting.  Look for items that need to be chopped or prepared before cooking.  Identify and gather equipment. 
7. Season in Layers - Season in layers while cooking.  Seasoning food before cooking or as it cooks helps to distribute the salt.  It also allows the food to absorb the salt seasoning ingredients from the inside out.  This brings out more flavor and helps reduce the amount of salt needed to season. 
8. Taste, Taste and Taste - Tasting is a very important part of cooking.  A good chef tastes their food from start to finish.  Tasting helps identify problems early in the cooking process and it also helps with seasoning in layers.  Tasting throughout the cooking process will help you to develop natural cooking instincts and better understand how flavors change and develop.
9. Fond = Flavor - Fond is the French term for all those bits of food left in the pan after roasting or pan roasting meats.  Fond has great flavor and should be incorporated into a sauce for the meat.  Fond can be removed from a hot pan by deglazing.  Deglaze hot pans by adding a water based liquid such as wine or stock.  Stir and scrape the bits of food into the liquid.  Make sure fond is not too brown or burnt before using it in a sauce. 
10. Use the Right Oil - Using the correct oil when cooking depends on the application.  When cooking with oil, avoid flavored or expensive oil, such as olive oil, which loses its flavor when heated.  Instead use canola or grapeseed oil.  Just make sure the oil you use for cooking has been refined for high heat or the oil may become acrid when heated.  Use extra virgin olive oil for low heat cooking or making vinaigrettes. 

For more great cooking tips sign up for our Basics of Cooking Class on Saturday, January 14 at 1:00.  This class is taught by our Executive Chef Jeremy Niehuss and covers many of the basics of cooking like a pro!

Chef's Technique - Blanching

Blanching is a food preparation process where food, usually a vegetable or fruit, is plunged into a large quantity of boiling water, removed after a brief, timed interval and finally plunged into ice water to halt the cooking process. One key to proper blanching is to quickly regain a boil after the food is added. A large quantity of water will help with this. The longer green vegetables are cooked below a boil, the more green color is lost. The blanching water should be seasoned heavily with kosher salt. This seasons the vegetables from the inside out.

Following are uses of blanching:

1.      Peeling: Blanching loosens the skin on some fruits or nuts, such as onions, tomatoes, plums, peaches or almonds.

2.      Flavor: Blanching enhances the flavor of some vegetables, such as broccoli, by releasing bitter acids stored in the cellular structure of the food.

3.      Appearance: Blanching enhances the color of some (particularly green) vegetables by releasing gases trapped in the cellular material that obscure the greenness of the chlorophyll. Since blanching is done and halted quickly, the heat does not have time to break down the chlorophyll.

4.      Blanching neutralizes bacteria and enzymes present in foods, thus delaying spoilage. Blanching is often used as a preparatory step for freezing and refrigerating vegetables.

5.      Blanching also weakens the structure of vegetables rendering them softer than their fresh state; this is beneficial for canning vegetables where the air in vegetables needs to be minimal.

Blanching Technique:

1.      Start with a large quantity of cold water. Always start with cold water. Hot water will contain traces of minerals and metals that come from the hot water tank and pipes. 1 1/2 gallons of water is generally sufficient for most home blanching.

2.      Bring the water to a rolling boil and season with Red Diamond kosher salt. Adjust the seasoning of the water by tasting it and adding salt until the salt can be tasted. I sometimes will season the water until it tastes like the ocean, which will perfectly season vegetables, but will not leave room for additional salt to be used later.

3.      Prepare ice water for shocking the vegetables after they are done cooking. Make sure you have a lot of ice in the water. A larger volume of shocking water with more ice will help to stop the cooking process quicker, keeping the vegetables from overcooking.

4.      Blanch the vegetables until they are tender and bright green. Don't worry about using a timer, but instead taste the vegetables to determine when they are done. I use a pair of tongs to pull one out. Let it cool slightly and then taste. A perfectly blanched vegetable should be tender, but still a little crisp.

5.      Immediately shock the vegetables. Only keep the vegetables in the shocking water until they are cold. Keeping them in the water for too long will cause them to become water logged.

And these are the secrets to perfectly blanched vegetables.

Traditions of Christmas

Traditions of Christmas, family friends, fun and of course food, are all elements of an exciting and festive Holiday Season.

Baking our favorite “goodies” is absolutely essential.  Each one of us has their own special favorite which stimulates memories of an especially wonderful person or event.  Of course, our families have their favorites and “musts” for the season.  Sometimes it seems as though the kitchen is the only room in the house. 

Using good quality unbleached all purpose flour, sugar, butter, fresh eggs and spices are critical.  You will taste the difference when using vanilla paste rather than vanilla extract as an example.  Freshly ground spices and toasted nuts are equally important.  You will reap the benefits in taste and praise from your family and friends.  Of course, purchase products that your budget can afford. 

Another essential element is equipment.  Sheet pans, silpats, parchment paper, mixers, sharp knives, food processors are necessary.  Also, an assortment of measuring cups, spoons, bowls need to be available.

The last element is to have a plan.  Take time to review your recipes, create shopping lists and check your pantry for items needed.  Also, research one or two new creations.  Never hurts to encourage some adventure for your palate.   Allow yourself enough time to mise en place (a French phrase defined as “everything in place” )before you start to assemble your recipe.  By measuring ingredients and placing them together you not only assure yourself that you have everything you need, but you will be amazed how much time is saved.   Allow enough time to enjoy the experience.   Be forgiving if the recipe doesn’t quite work the way your envisioned.  After all, it is only food. 

Bake some memories this year.  Invite family members and friends to join you and make some hot chocolate or mulled spice wine and enjoy one another.   This is a gift that will be remembered for years to come: a gift of sharing yourself with those who are important to you.  

Happy Holidays!!!
Sherry
(LO location)

Dry Aging

One of my favorite things to eat is a dry aged rib eye, simply pan seared with salt and pepper.  The nutty and intense meaty flavor is the essence of a great steak.  The chemical reactions that happen during dry aging take an ordinary piece of meat to extraordinary. 

So, why is dry aging so special and what does it do to meats?  Basically, dry aging does 2 things.  First it concentrates the flavors of meats giving them an intense nutty flavor and aroma.  Second, it makes meats more tender.  This is a simple explanation, but to understand this technique it's useful to understand the science of dry aging.

Dry aging is a process where meats are allowed to age in a temperature and humidity controlled environment for long periods of time, sometimes up to 40 days or more.  As meat ages, enzymes start to multiply and eat the dead cells around them.  As the enzymes go to work, they break down large flavor molecules into smaller flavorful fragments.  The proteins are broken into savory amino compounds, the glycogen into glucose, and fats are converted to aromatic fatty acids.  These processes are what gives dry aged meats their intense, nutty flavor and aromas. 

Enzymes called cathepsins are responsible for making meats tender.  These enzymes break down the connective tissue between muscle fibers weakening the collagen.  This process not only weakens the structure of muscle fibers, but it also allows for more of the collagen to become gelatin during cooking.  And gelatin adds richness, moisture and mouth feel to meats.  The weakened muscle fibers exert less pressure as they cook, which reduces moisture loss during cooking and carving.

Dry aging is a very simple process, but without the right environment meats can end up turning rancid, instead of aging.  Dry aging is best accomplished in a refrigerator at 34 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit and at about 80% humidity.  Proper temperature controls bacteria growth and high humidity slows the loss of moisture, allowing for the flavors in meat to concentrate slowly. 

How to dry age at home:  Dry aging meats at home can be very difficult without proper equipment.  It takes practice to create the perfect environment.  For the adventurous home chef here are some pointers for dry aging at home:

1. Dedicate a refrigerator just for dry aging.  Refrigerators used for storage of other foods contain too many microbes and bacteria that will spoil the meat.  The meat will also take on flavors from other foods in the refrigerator.  Once you have a dedicated cooler, thoroughly clean it and sanitize it with a mild bleach/water solution.
2. Get a thermometer and hygrometer for humidity.  There are many devices on the market that do both.  Place a pan of room temperature water in the bottom of the refrigerator.  Even at cooler temperatures the water will still evaporate and create humidity. 
3. Line the refrigerator with cedar.  Cedar absorbs smells and will help keep the meat from taking on off flavors.  Cedar is also antiseptic, which is why it was used by the Egyptians for embalming.  So it seems fitting to use it for aging meats.
4. Start with smaller pieces of meat, such as a 4 bone prime rib.  Smaller cuts require less time and are less likely to spoil.
5. Rinse the meat with cold running water before aging.  This will wash away much of the bacteria and other microbes that will cause meat to spoil.  Dry the meat before aging.  Do not wrap or cover meats to be dry aged.  This can cause them to spoil.
6. Age meats until they are leathery on the outside.  The color will become deep red and the aroma will become nutty.  Some spots of the meat being aged may mold or turn rancid.  This is normal. 
7. Before cooking dry aged meats, the outside must be trimmed down to the bright red meat.  All rancid spots and mold should be trimmed.  Cook trimmed meats immediately.

These of course are just general guidelines to get you started.  I would highly recommend that you read up on the subject of dry aging before attempting it at home for the first time. 

For more on dry aging, butchery techniques and charcuterie I am teaching a class called "The Butcher Block" on Saturday, December 10 at 11:00 AM.  This part demonstration, part participation class will cover the basics of dry aging, curing, smoking, sausage making and basic butchery techniques. Join me to learn more...

Dry Brining

Over the past few weeks I have been blogging about seasoning with salt.  This is a very important topic for me because I feel that seasoning is an important technique that can help a cook make their food taste better.  But, at the same time learning to season is probably one of the most difficult culinary techniques to master. 

In today's blog I wanted to share one of my favorite seasoning techniques, dry brining.  Last week I blogged about wet brining (Brining), which is a great technique for seasoning foods, because it adds moisture.  But the one big drawback of wet brining is that the excess moisture can dilute the flavor of meat.  Dry brining offers many of the same benefits of wet brining, but doesn't hide the flavor of the meat.

My first introduction to the technique of dry brining came from Chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Cafe in San Fransisco, CA.  One of her specialities is roast chicken, which is out of this world.  I didn't know her secret until I purchased her cookbook and read about her approach of dry brining, a technique she uses often at Zuni.

Dry brining is actually very simple, but requires a little knowledge of the processes involved to master the technique.  The first step is to season the cut of meat.  Red Diamond Kosher salt works best.  Sprinkle all sides with the salt.  Next cover the meat and refrigerate to allow the process to play out.  Once the salt is added to the meat, it will draw moisture out.  Just like wet brining the salt will actually dry out the meat.  Next the salt dissolves in the water from the meat forming a small amount of wet brine around the meat.  Just like wet brining the meat wants to create homeostasis (the balance of liquid) and draws the salty water back into the muscle fibers.  Once the salt is drawn back in it breaks downs the connective tissues between the muscle fibers making the meat tender.  And since the salt is drawn to the center, the meat is seasoned from the inside out, which greatly improves flavor.

Dry brining uses the natural moisture in meat, with no additional water incorporated.  This means that the natural flavors of the meat are accentuated.  The process of dry brining also acts to preserve meats, extending their shelf life.

A couple of notes about dry brining:

1. Use a little less salt than would normally be used to season a piece of meat that is going to be immediately cooked.  Dry brining allows for all the salt applied to incorporate with the meat, so less is needed.
2. Allow enough time for the meat to go through the entire process.  Cooking the meat before the reverse osmosis is complete will result in dry meat.  I dry brine whole chickens and smaller cuts of meats, like steaks, for 2 days.  Larger cuts of meats (double cut pork chops) for 3 days.  And whole roast for 4 to 5 days. 
3. Aromatics for flavor - Once you master the dry brining technique try adding aromatics, such as herbs and garlic, or spices for flavor.  Just like wet brining the flavors will be absorbed into the meat. 

If you are interested in trying dry brining, it is best to start with a small cut of meat, like a rib eye.  It takes a little practice, but once mastered this technique will give amazing results.

To Brine or not to Brine?

Photo by Daryl Ann Yeany

To brine or not to brine? That is the question.  And as a chef it is a question that I am frequently asked!  So, in this week's blog I am going to discuss the world of brining, including how it works, benefits, drawbacks and techniques.  I will also share some great tips and guidelines to help you decide whether to brine or not to brine.  To answer this question it is important to first understand how the brining works.

What is Brining

Brining is a process where meats are soaked in a brine solution of salt, sugar and aromatics for flavoring.  Through osmosis the salt in the brine first pulls water out of the meat fibers.  It's counter intuitive, but initially brines dry out meats.  Next, through reverse osmosis, the brine is drawn back into the meat fibers creating homeostasis, or a balance of the liquid between the meat and the brine.   As the meat fibers absorb the brine, the flavors of the brine are also drawn in.  Next the salt starts to break down the connective meat fibers, making the meat more tender and allowing the meat to absorb more liquid than it initially contained before brining.

Effects and Benefits of Brining

1. Increase Moisture Content - Brining meats increases the moisture content making it less susceptible to drying out during cooking.  Brining in most cases is the best solution to avoid dry roasts. 
2. Seasons the Inside - Brine is drawn into the center of meat, seasoning it from the inside. 
3. Flavor - Another great benefit of brining is that whatever flavors in the brine are pulled into the meat as well.  This makes brining a great technique for flavoring meats from the inside out. 
4. Tenderizes - Once the salt from the brine is absorbed into the meat it starts to break down the connective tissue that makes meat tough.

Tips for Brining

1. Time - The longer the meat is left in a brine the more moisture it will absorb.  While meats will keep absorbing the brine over time, they will eventually reach a point where they cannot absorb any more liquid.  I generally brine fish for 24 hours or less, chickens for 24 to 48 hours, pork roasts for 36 to 48 hours and cuts like beef briskets for 3 days or longer.
2. Temperature - It is important to brine meats in the refrigerator for food safety reasons.  The only problem is the rate of osmosis is slower at lower temperatures.  To give the brining process a kick start, I cool my brine to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and then add the meat. 
3. Strength - The amount of salt in the brine will ultimately determine the amount of salt in the meat.  Generally a brine should be about 5% salt by weight of the brine.

Now, back to the question of whether to brine or not to brine.  I think brines play an important role in cooking, but only in the right applications.  So, here are my thoughts on different meats:

1. Turkey - While brining turkey helps avoid dry meat, I prefer not to brine my turkey.  I feel that the extra moisture content dilutes the meaty flavor of the turkey.  Brining turkey also makes the drippings too salty to use for gravy.  I follow the advice of food scientist Harold McGee and either roast the breasts and legs separately or I carve the breast into thin slices and mix them with the gravy, similar to saucing pulled pork.  The gravy will help moisturize the meat.
2. Pork Roast - I often brine pork roast, especially leaner cuts like pork loin.  Also, pork can stand up to the additional salt that brines add.
3. Chickens - I don't brine chickens that are being served as roast chicken for the same reason as not brining turkeys.  The chicken loses its meaty flavor.  But, if I'm cooking chicken to be cooled and used later for preparation, such as chicken salad or enchiladas, I find that a brine helps keep the meat juicy through the process of being cooled down and reheated later.
4. Beef - Rarely do I brine beef.  This is because beef tends to have a higher fat content, which makes beef roasts juicier.  The exception would be briskets for corned beef or pastrami, where the brine is essential to the preparation.

Here is a link to my basic brine recipe.  It's a versatile recipe that works great for poultry, pork or beef.  It contains pink salt, an essential ingredient for preserving meats to be smoked.  If you are brining meat to be simply roasted then I would recommend omitting the pink salt.