At work the other day, I found myself distracted by the new cookbook by Nobu Matsuhisa, “Nobu West.” The phenomenal book provides a thorough exploration of modern Japanese cuisine. The photographs and recipes reminded me of the upcoming Kaiseki dinner with David Padberg.
David, who is the chef de cuisine at Park Kitchen, recently returned from Japan where he studied traditional Japanese cooking. Since his return, David has hosted several traditional Japanese meals. His dinners are a great opportunity to learn about Japanese culture and experience Japanese ceremony, food and sake first-hand.
Japanese and Pacific Northwest Cuisine share many things; simplicity, ingredients, and a focus on seasonal ingredients. In particular, “Kaiseki” dinners are known for their delicate presentation and seasonal focus. David’s creative menus reflect the harmonious blend of cooking styles that he has developed through his travels. Dishes like Tuna Tataki with Asparagus and Duck Breast with Sesame and Spinach reflect both Japan and the Pacific NW. I'm so excited to try learn more about this traditional food, and to enjoy some of the dishes (complete with sake pairings!).
There is a Japanese proverb-“if you can capture the season on a plate, then you are the master.” Truly, David has mastered the art of presentation and seasonal cuisine ; let him help you become a master too, on Sunday, April 15th at 6:30 pm.
-- Josie
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Give Thai a Try
My friend Emily loves Thai and Vietnamese food. Summer rolls, pad Thai, sugarcane shrimp and Thai Iced tea are her favorite foods. She orders them, anxiously awaiting their arrival, and watches them appear at her side complete with elaborate garnishes sweet and spicy dipping sauces. Yet she never makes these dishes at home. Anytime we get together for dinner, she always requests that I make her Vietnamese food. I asked her why; “Because it’s too hard. There are too many ingredients and I don’t really understand them.” This from someone who has almost as many cookbooks as I do! As I reflected on her puzzling response, it occurred to me that she probably wasn’t the only cook to be intimidated by SE Asian cuisine. It’s true- there are a lot of ingredients, and they are foreign to most Americans.
At In Good Taste this Saturday, April 7th, Chef Robert Carmack will be visiting all the way from his home in Sydney, Australia to teach a class on Authentic Thai and Vietnamese cooking. The class will begin with fundamentals like making condiments and curry pastes. There is a stellar menu featuring Spicy Noodles with Prawns and Red Curry Chicken with Sticky Rice. Before the class, there is an optional tour to an Asian market, where students will get a complete store tour, shopping guide and a hands on product tasting. The first step to authentic SE Asian cuisine is authentic ingredients, and where better to learn about them than at an Asian market?
Robert Carmack is a seasoned traveler and cooking instructor. In addition to running frequent tours to Thailand, Vietnam and Burma (see www.globetrottinggourmet.com), he recently published two books. Through his years of experience, Robert has learned how to demystify Thai and Vietnamese ingredients, techniques, and recipes. In his class, he provides an in depth glossary of ingredients, including their origins, tips on how to use them, and shopping information. A comprehensive overview of each cuisine and diet, with cultural explanations is also explained. Chef Carmack even offers advice for using traditional equipment, like a fire pot, as well as potential alternatives so that you don’t have to stock a full Thai kitchen to make good Thai food.
“Thai and Vietnamese Cooking” with Robert Carmack is the chance to learn quick, easy, delicious recipes that you can make at home. Armed with the information provided by Chef Carmack, Emily will never have to order take out again, and I can finally rest.
-Josie
At In Good Taste this Saturday, April 7th, Chef Robert Carmack will be visiting all the way from his home in Sydney, Australia to teach a class on Authentic Thai and Vietnamese cooking. The class will begin with fundamentals like making condiments and curry pastes. There is a stellar menu featuring Spicy Noodles with Prawns and Red Curry Chicken with Sticky Rice. Before the class, there is an optional tour to an Asian market, where students will get a complete store tour, shopping guide and a hands on product tasting. The first step to authentic SE Asian cuisine is authentic ingredients, and where better to learn about them than at an Asian market?
Robert Carmack is a seasoned traveler and cooking instructor. In addition to running frequent tours to Thailand, Vietnam and Burma (see www.globetrottinggourmet.com), he recently published two books. Through his years of experience, Robert has learned how to demystify Thai and Vietnamese ingredients, techniques, and recipes. In his class, he provides an in depth glossary of ingredients, including their origins, tips on how to use them, and shopping information. A comprehensive overview of each cuisine and diet, with cultural explanations is also explained. Chef Carmack even offers advice for using traditional equipment, like a fire pot, as well as potential alternatives so that you don’t have to stock a full Thai kitchen to make good Thai food.
“Thai and Vietnamese Cooking” with Robert Carmack is the chance to learn quick, easy, delicious recipes that you can make at home. Armed with the information provided by Chef Carmack, Emily will never have to order take out again, and I can finally rest.
-Josie
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
A Modern Love Story
As if he wasn’t interesting enough already, Chef Joseph Carey has another chapter to add to his life story. After living all over the United States, running a professional cooking school in Memphis, and cooking for celebrities like Tom Cruise, he recently moved to the Portland area. In what seems to be fairy tale, Joseph Carey reconnected with his high school sweetheart, Alice. Forty-two years ago, Joseph and Alice dated while attending high school in the Midwest. Although they were not in the same class at school, they continued their relationship on to their separate colleges, until Joseph went to war. Time passed, and neither of them returned to their Midwest hometown. Each developed new friends and interests, and moved on.
But life has a funny way of leading you where it wants you to go. In 2000, it led Joseph Carey to a small art gallery in Amity, Oregon. The art gallery’s webpage featured a work of art called “Invention of Music; Rattle, Kithera, Handpipe” created by Alice.
A Google search for the word “kithera” to complete a crossword puzzle yielded a much greater treasure- a chance to meet an old friend. Joseph contacted the art gallery and eventually Alice, and after emails and phone calls, the two finally met again. As in fairytales, the relationship bloomed again and Joseph made the decision that time he wouldn’t let Alice go. Just two weeks ago, Chef Carey transported his wealth of knowledge and years of experience to Portland.
He’ll begin this new chapter with a four week series of classes at In Good Taste on the fundamentals of cooking. The classes will cover the basic cooking techniques, and will explain how to build a repertoire of recipes off of just one method. Each Hands on class will provide thorough instruction, as well as a delicious meal. Highlights from the various menus include Pan Seared Scallops with a Ginger Buerre Blanc, Blanquette de Veau, Baked Alaska, Leg of Local Spring Lamb, and Crème caramel. If you’ve ever wanted to understand the basics of cooking and learn to cook without a book, this is the series for you. Students have the option of taking any of the classes, or the entire series. Those that take the entire series will receive the gift of a copy of Chef Carey’s new book, “Chef on Fire.”
Get fired up for the classses with Chef Carey at his book signing, this Sunday, April 8th at In Good Taste. The event begins at 12:00 pm.
In Good Taste
231 NW 11th
(503) 248-2015
-Josie
But life has a funny way of leading you where it wants you to go. In 2000, it led Joseph Carey to a small art gallery in Amity, Oregon. The art gallery’s webpage featured a work of art called “Invention of Music; Rattle, Kithera, Handpipe” created by Alice.
A Google search for the word “kithera” to complete a crossword puzzle yielded a much greater treasure- a chance to meet an old friend. Joseph contacted the art gallery and eventually Alice, and after emails and phone calls, the two finally met again. As in fairytales, the relationship bloomed again and Joseph made the decision that time he wouldn’t let Alice go. Just two weeks ago, Chef Carey transported his wealth of knowledge and years of experience to Portland.
He’ll begin this new chapter with a four week series of classes at In Good Taste on the fundamentals of cooking. The classes will cover the basic cooking techniques, and will explain how to build a repertoire of recipes off of just one method. Each Hands on class will provide thorough instruction, as well as a delicious meal. Highlights from the various menus include Pan Seared Scallops with a Ginger Buerre Blanc, Blanquette de Veau, Baked Alaska, Leg of Local Spring Lamb, and Crème caramel. If you’ve ever wanted to understand the basics of cooking and learn to cook without a book, this is the series for you. Students have the option of taking any of the classes, or the entire series. Those that take the entire series will receive the gift of a copy of Chef Carey’s new book, “Chef on Fire.”
Get fired up for the classses with Chef Carey at his book signing, this Sunday, April 8th at In Good Taste. The event begins at 12:00 pm.
In Good Taste
231 NW 11th
(503) 248-2015
-Josie
Spring Desserts
Spring desserts….. lemon always seems to fit the menu. Berries signal summer, pears suggest fall, and cranberries are a sign of winter. Lemon desserts are bright and tangy, and take advantage of the season’s best citrus. Every year around Easter, my grandmother makes her famous Coconut Cake with Fluffy White Frosting and Lemon Cheese Filling. It’s a tradition in the family that we all look forward to. As much as I love her cake, I was looking for something a little bit different and wanted to start my own edible Easter traditions. I knew I wanted to stay with the lemon flavor, but didn’t want to make the 7 minute frosting with coconut. In the end, I made a luscious lemon cake with a tangy and sweet glaze that was just enough, without being overpowering. I started with her basic yellow cake recipe, and added lemon juice. Instead of the lemon cheese filling and coconut frosting, I filled the cake with pillowy whipped cream. I used a simple powdered sugar glaze that added a bit of crispness once it dried. As soon as I bit into the crunchy glaze, it melted in my mouth and gave way to the pleasant lemony flavor.
Recipe - Luscious Lemon Layer Cake
-Josie
Recipe - Luscious Lemon Layer Cake
-Josie
Thursday, March 29, 2007
The Salt Experiments
While browsing the store the other day, I happened to find a jar of Chardonnay Smoked Salt. Just the title was exciting- wine and salt in one! The artisan salt comes from France and is smoked is smoked over old Chardonnay bottles barrels which impart a deep oaky flavor into the salt crystals. I was inspired to do a bit of my own salty experiments. In Good Taste has so many salts that it is hard to know where to begin. Among them are two from Casina Rossa, a family run Italian villa with a variety of artisan products. Interestingly enough, the salts that they sell are categorized as “condiments.” Finishing salts really are condiments of sorts; with just a sprinkle, you can add color, texture, and, of course, flavor. What’s wonderful about these salts is their crystal, their crunch, sometimes their color, but always their unique and particular effects on food. Smoked Salt can add depth of flavor, black salt adds interest, and fleur de sel adds crunch.
Casina Rossa produces two salts. The Truffle Salt is a fantastic grey color, with a very fine texture, almost like confectioner’s sugar. The saffron salt is a gorgeous deep yellow color, like powdered gold. Reminiscing fondly of recent paella that I made, I decided to try pasta with prawns and saffron butter. Saffron is a natural pairing for shellfish, and a sweet but mild butter sauce is a perfect vehicle for the marriage of flavors.
After boiling and draining fettuccine noodles, I melted butter in a large sauté pan. I added large peeled shrimp and watched as they gradually turned carnation pink. When they had cooked through, I pulled the pan off the heat, dropped the drained noodles into the skillet. Then I sprinkled the pan with the saffron salt, and tossed thoroughly to coat. I noticed the lovely gold color permeated the noodles and shrimp; the entire dish took on a glowing color. I coiled a pile of fragrant noodles and the shrimp onto a serving plate, sprinkled with a touch more salt, and took a bite. The unctuous butter sauce had an indescribable flavor. The first bite carried a heavy taste of saffron, but as I ate, the intensity mingled perfectly with the neutrality of the fettuccine and sweetness of the shrimp.
The saffron salt imparted a beautiful color, a mouthwatering aroma, and a depth of flavor that is inimitable. This luxury is not to be reserved for every day.
-Josie
Casina Rossa produces two salts. The Truffle Salt is a fantastic grey color, with a very fine texture, almost like confectioner’s sugar. The saffron salt is a gorgeous deep yellow color, like powdered gold. Reminiscing fondly of recent paella that I made, I decided to try pasta with prawns and saffron butter. Saffron is a natural pairing for shellfish, and a sweet but mild butter sauce is a perfect vehicle for the marriage of flavors.
After boiling and draining fettuccine noodles, I melted butter in a large sauté pan. I added large peeled shrimp and watched as they gradually turned carnation pink. When they had cooked through, I pulled the pan off the heat, dropped the drained noodles into the skillet. Then I sprinkled the pan with the saffron salt, and tossed thoroughly to coat. I noticed the lovely gold color permeated the noodles and shrimp; the entire dish took on a glowing color. I coiled a pile of fragrant noodles and the shrimp onto a serving plate, sprinkled with a touch more salt, and took a bite. The unctuous butter sauce had an indescribable flavor. The first bite carried a heavy taste of saffron, but as I ate, the intensity mingled perfectly with the neutrality of the fettuccine and sweetness of the shrimp.
The saffron salt imparted a beautiful color, a mouthwatering aroma, and a depth of flavor that is inimitable. This luxury is not to be reserved for every day.
-Josie
The $28 Burger
Last weekend, Hurleys opened for brunch. Matt and I couldn't resist the thought of a relaxing morning at one of our favourite restaurants so we eagerly made a reservation for Sunday.
I ordered the Eggs Benedict which was absolutely the best I've ever had. The "pomme rissole" – a heavenly crust of crisp, golden potato ribbons – proved to be the perfect improvement over the commonplace "English muffin". Needless to say, the hollandaise was perfectly executed. But enough of the Eggs Benedict…
The real standout was the $28 burger. The portions are generous so Matt was happy to give me a quarter of his. One mouthful told me that this was no ordinary burger. It is served with a house made mayonnaise flavoured oh-so perfectly with truffle oil. Chef Hurley knows how to lavish a dish with a decadent touch without overdoing it. The Kobe beef was cooked to perfection. Alongside the burger, the Asiago chips – Hurley's trademark – beckoned me. I threw caution to the wind, and indulged. The burger rested on pretzel buns from the same bakery that supplies Chef Hurley's Seattle restaurant, Coupage. I loved that burger! And, apparently, so did many others. In answer to my question, our server shared with me that the burger was their most popular item so far.
The ever-helpful staff answered all my questions with ease; they are clearly involved and knowledgeable about the new items on their menu. My incessant foodie questions didn't faze them at all.
I couldn't help but notice that everyone else in the restaurant seemed equally sated and happy. What a great place for brunch!
Barbara
Spring Resolutions
Like many people, I have always made ambitious New Year’s resolutions, vowing to be better, do better, and live better. And like many, by about March, I’ve sort of forgotten about my initial goals. This year however, I had an epiphany- what about making a Spring Resolution, to mark the first day of spring and all things fresh and new? So this year, on March 21st, the first day of spring, I renewed my vows to do better and eat better by starting the 100 Mile Diet. This is not a typical diet; it’s an effort to eat food that comes from within 100 miles of your home. The idea is to reconnect with your food, your local farmers, and the seasons. By supporting local, sustainable agriculture, you learn about the area around you, the great artisan products that you might be missing, and skilled craftsmen that make or grow them.
So much of our food now travels an average of 1,500 miles before ending up in our kitchens. Globalization of the food supply has a tremendous impact on the environment, our health, our communities and our taste buds. The apple that you ate with breakfast most likely came from Chile- but what about the bounty of apples growing in Hood River? Many of us do not think about them at all.
Rather than obsessing about every single detail and product that I use in the kitchen, I’m going to try the 80/20 rule- 80% of ingredients will be within the 100 mile radius, while the other 20% can be carefully selected from anywhere. As excited as I am about the Eat Local challenge, I’m not quite ready to give up my morning coffee.
For me, the Eat Local Challenge is more of a way to enjoy the harvest of each season and celebrate Oregon’s Bounty. At In Good Taste, we have an “Oregon’s Bounty” series of classes that do just that. Each class has a seasonal menu based on local ingredients from sustainable farmers and purveyors.
I look at this like a great scavenger hunt- how fun is it to research food and find the best and most interesting ingredients from around the Portland area, and then create a fantastic menu? It’s like a Mystery Basket challenge, but with a much bigger basket.
-Josie Ross
So much of our food now travels an average of 1,500 miles before ending up in our kitchens. Globalization of the food supply has a tremendous impact on the environment, our health, our communities and our taste buds. The apple that you ate with breakfast most likely came from Chile- but what about the bounty of apples growing in Hood River? Many of us do not think about them at all.
Rather than obsessing about every single detail and product that I use in the kitchen, I’m going to try the 80/20 rule- 80% of ingredients will be within the 100 mile radius, while the other 20% can be carefully selected from anywhere. As excited as I am about the Eat Local challenge, I’m not quite ready to give up my morning coffee.
For me, the Eat Local Challenge is more of a way to enjoy the harvest of each season and celebrate Oregon’s Bounty. At In Good Taste, we have an “Oregon’s Bounty” series of classes that do just that. Each class has a seasonal menu based on local ingredients from sustainable farmers and purveyors.
I look at this like a great scavenger hunt- how fun is it to research food and find the best and most interesting ingredients from around the Portland area, and then create a fantastic menu? It’s like a Mystery Basket challenge, but with a much bigger basket.
-Josie Ross
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