Nothing like NY

No matter how much alike we are, there are real differences between people from the West Coast and East Coast. The accent, for one thing, is noticeable. But of course, I look at food before anything else. There are very different attitudes towards food between the two. East Coasters are crazy about delis. I can say this because I’ve witnessed it. My dear friend Sue is from the East Coast and introduced me to true New York deli food. While we were living in California, she would order legitimate NY deli food to be overnighted to her. Bags of New York style bagels, boxes of sliced meats and cheeses would arrive on the doorstep, packed in ice. It was like Christmas year around. I miss her (and I miss having all that yummy food around). While I do not fully understand the deli meat fetish, I do understand general food biases and obsessions. Such as my unwavering loyalty to Dungeness crabs (I’ve been eating and catching them myself my whole life). I love fresh Dungeness crab, and feel strongly that it is the only crab for crab cakes, (but it is just one of the requirements for perfect crab cakes- which is another post entirely).

Since she moved back to the East Coast, she has been able to satisfy her East Coast cravings without the assistance of FedEx.

If you too, are stranded on the West Coast, without access to great New York style bagels, find a solution at Michael Zusman's New York Style Bagel Class on Sunday, October 19. You'll learn how to make the quintessential East Coast bagel, including variations on the plain version like pumpernickel and poppy seed. After you've learned the secrets to spectacular bagels, you can feast on a bagel spread complete with lox, cream cheese, and all the other bagel fixings you desire. After that, you can start your own mini bagel factory in your kitchen, and feel like you're back home on the East Coast. The feast begins at 1:00 pm.
-Josie

Terriffic Tarragon

I recently rediscovered tarragon. It’s a quintessential ingredient in fines herbes, goes well with chicken and egg dishes, and it makes béarnaise sauce, béarnaise sauce. But for whatever reason, I’d stopped cooking with it. I hadn’t made a béarnaise in ages, and just about forgotten about fines herbes altogether. Then I saw some beautiful fresh tarragon at the market last weekend. Something prompted to buy it, which ended up being the beginning of my renewed love of the herb. I find myself using it more than ever before.
Tarragon is a perennial herb. It is somewhat related to sage and mugwort. The leaves are dark green, long and slender, with an aromatic, licorice/anise smell. The taste is a bit bittersweet and herbaceous.
It complements mushrooms, chicken, peas, spinach, greens, zucchini, corn, potatoes, eggs, and pasta. It makes an excellent addition to salads, in vinaigrette or just mixed with the greens. I’ve used the vinaigrette for grilled fish, as a marinade for chicken, and as a dressing for potato salad too- it’s amazingly versatile.

Happy Cooking!-Josie

Quick Tarragon Vinaigrette
In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar with ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper. Whisk in 1/ 2 cup olive oil. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves. It goes beautifully with butter lettuce and radishes, or with steamed new potatoes.

Discovering the Lobster Mushroom

For a mere minute this fall, lobster mushrooms are available and delicious. The Lobster Mushroom gets its name from the bright red color of the mushroom. This mushroom is a great addition to dish, not only because of its beautiful color, but also for its firm texture and delicate flavor.
Because the mushroom is so firm, it’s considered to be very “meaty”, even more so than a Portobello. Between September and November, they are harvested in the mountains in the Pacific Northwest.

I worked at restaurant once that served a lobster- mushroom salad. The description below the title was, “sautéed mushrooms, warm vinaigrette, wilted greens.” Eventually, the menu had to be changed because guests kept complaining when they were presented with the dish: apparently most people expected a salad of mushrooms and lobster, not a pile of sautéed lobster mushrooms in warm vinaigrette with grilled bread and wilted greens.

I’ve found that I really like flavor of Lobster Mushrooms with eggs, like in an omelet or a quiche. A simple sauté of lobster mushrooms, lightly glazed with Marsala, and served over grilled or toasted bread is an easy and elegant starter for any fall menu.

-Josie

Sautéed Lobster Mushrooms with Marsala

1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1.5 lbs lobster mushrooms cut into 1/3 inch slices mushrooms, halved if large or left whole if small
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 oz minced garlic
½ cup Marsala
3 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
2 teaspoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Place a large skillet over high heat. Heat the olive oil and when it’s hot, and then add the mushrooms in a single layer. When the mushrooms have begun to caramelize, stir the mushrooms quickly and add a pinch of salt. Continue to cook for about 5 minutes, tossing or stirring occasional, until well browned.
Add a bit of pepper and the garlic. Cook 2 more minutes, or until the garlic has browned and the mushrooms have softened. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate, and add the butter to the skillet. When the butter has melted, add the Marsala and bring to a simmer. When the liquid has reduced and thickened, return the mushrooms to the pan, toss with the glaze and the herbs, and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with toasted or grilled bread.

Two days, Three Classes, A Lot of Good Food

It seems like no matter what we end up doing this weekend, there will be good food that will fill every craving. At our Lake Oswego location on Saturday, Barb Randall will be teaching a Hands on Hearty Harvest Feast, using only local ingredients. In fact, some of the ingredients are from her own garden. In the Pearl location on Saturday, Michel Stroot journeys to Vietnam with classic dishes like Rice Paper Rolls with Crab and Salmon, Sweet –and- Sour Fish Soup, and Shrimp and Green Papaya Salad. Then on Sunday, Maya Klein will teach a Hands on Sushi class in the Pearl. You’ll enjoy Miso Soup, Rolled Sushi and Pressed Sushi. With all that’s going on here, there’s no reason not to eat well. two days, three classes, and a lot of cooking! With all the new ideas and recipes you’ll have after a weekend of culinary classes, the menu for the week ahead will look awfully good!

Happy Eating!

-Josie

Good Evening Vietnam

Even though I really don’t mind the rainy season, it takes some getting used to. I’m not quite through the adjustment period of shorter days, colder weather, and being wet.
If you’re having the same weather adjustment problem I am, look to sunnier climates for warmer flavors and fresh flavors. Michel Stroot, who served as executive chef of The Golden Door Resort and Spa for over 30 years, is bringing Vietnam, and the Golden Door Spa, to In Good Taste. The Belgian-born chef combines classic French techniques and European sensibilities with the freshest foods at the market. As a chef, Michel has helped to define a bold style of cooking that is at once light and luxurious. He’ll prepare a mouthwatering spread of classic dishes, including Sweet and Sour Fish Soup , Imperial Rice studded with shrimp, scallions and cilantro, Shrimp and Green Papaya Salad, Spring rolls filled with salmon, shrimp and crab, and Candied Crème Brulee. Michel has a wonderful teaching style and years of experience to share. Spend the evening with Michel Stroot and travel to warm, tropical climates, bright flavors, and delicious Vietnamese recipes.
The class will be held Saturday October 11 at 6:30 PM.
-Josie

Ways to Escape the Rain

It was raining when I woke up yesterday. (And when I went to bed). All I wanted to do was curl up inside. But, as a native Oregonian, I know I'll adjust (but boy, the first couple of weeks are hard!) One thing that always helps take the chill off is a warm and hearty meal. There's nothing like sitting down to a steaming bowl of beef stew, or a tasty pot roast on a cold, rainy day. I was lucky enough to enjoy Molly Steven's class on braising yesterday. Just in time for the coming of the fall season, her cozy menu included Osso Buco alla Milanese, Butternut Mashed Potatoes
Lemon-Roasted Green Beans with Marcona Almonds, and a Dark Chocolate Tart with Gingersnap Crust. Really, it was so good, we didn't notice the weather.

Inspired by Molly, I'm making a braised pork shoulder for dinner tonight. By the time it has cooked for 6 hours, it will be fork tender and falling off the bone. It is filling the house with delicious aromas as I write.

For more ideas to help you adjust to the change in weather, try some of our warming upcoming classes. Barb Randall will be teaching a Hands on Hearty Feast at our Lake Oswego location on October 11, featuring Oregon Black Cod Bundles, Warm Grilled Fennel, Broccoli Custard, and Baked Stuffed Hood River Pears. Or, come to our Hands on Tuscan Feast on October 13th, when you'll savor a tasty White bean soup, Stuffed Pork Roulade, White Truffle Potato Puree, and a Citrus Olive Cake.



I'm definitely ready for dinner now! Happy Eating!

-Josie

An End and A Beginning

I love summer. A large part of is due to the weather, but the whole truth is that the produce has almost as much to do with it. I get endless pleasure from going out to my garden and harvesting a bounty of fresh and delicious food. The basil and tomatoes are my favorites, but I also have a fondness for the peppers and zucchinis and beans…. (and everything else really). I’m almost sad to see it coming to an end. I try to follow the locavore philosophy and eat in season, no matter how difficult that is. It means no more tomatoes until the spring. The only basil I’ll have is from a greenhouse or my freezer. And the squash will be of the winter variety. Which brings me to my point. Winter squash is starting to creep into the market. With all end-of-summer lamentations aside, the fall harvest is delightful in its own right. Root vegetables of every variety, fall corn, lots of apples and pears, hazelnuts, fall greens, onions, Brussels spouts, broccoli and (and my absolute favorite)- mushrooms! I will say this for the wet and soggy Oregon fall- it is the ideal place for mushrooms. And that, in itself, almost makes up for all those days with wet commutes and matted hair. In addition to modifying our grocery lists and menus, it’s time to modify the cooking methods. While the summer is ideal for quick sautés and constant grilling, fall brings on the braising, slow cooking, and stewing. It may take longer overall to cook with these methods, but the “active” time is pretty minimal. You can start it, walk away for an hour (or more) and not worry about a dish in a slow cooker or stock pot. The more I think about it, the more I’m looking forward to the rich and hearty fall flavors. To get your fall food focus, try Pork Chops with Tapenade. Pork, rosemary and olives blend together in a flavorful dish that needs little more than a side of pasta tossed with olive oil.

For more ideas on fall flavors and cooking methods, join Molly Stevens Sunday October 5th for A Hands on Braising class. Molly has a wealth of knowledge and experience to share, as well as a delightful menu of slow cooked deliciousness. The menu includes Wild Mushroom Ragout on Crispy Polenta with Comte Cheese, Tuna Steaks Braised with Radicchio, Chickpeas & Rosemary, Flank Steak Involtini with Prosciutto & Pine Nut Filling, Braised Pork Chops & Creamy Cabbage, and Veal and Ricotta Polpettone Braised in Tomato Sauce over Hand-made Pasta. The class will begin at 2:00 PM.

-Josie