Guilty Pleasures

Everyone has a comfort food- something they crave when they have a bad day or are under the weather. "Guilty pleasure" foods are entirely different; guilty pleasures are foods you love, but may not readily admit to. Chefs often consider their childhood favorites as such. They secretly love things foods like Marshmallow fluff, Wonder bread and Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. Prompted by the recent question about comfort food, I asked our staff about the foods they eat behind closed doors. Reluctant to share at first, it took a bit of persistence to finally get them to confess. I have to admit that as much as I love innovative culinary creations and interesting condiments, there's nothing like ketchup. French fries aren't complete without ketchup, and I can't do without it for my scrambled eggs. But don't tell.
-Josie

Ryan- "Spam. In a Fritatta, with melted cheddar cheese."
Rachel-"Biscuits with lots of honey.
Sue- "Chocolate chip cookie dough."
Pam-" Crunchy peanut butter."
Barbara-" Cream scones with jam."
Rodrigo- "Hostess cupcakes."

Comfort me with.....

Even if spring is here and the flowers are blooming, the sniffles still linger. For those days when you’re feeling slightly under the weather, comfort food is on the menu. I think that soft white foods in general are soothing. For me, the foods of my childhood are mashed potatoes, preferably served in a conical mound with a pat of butter oozing down the sides like lava from a volcano. Or really fluffy buttermilk biscuits and lots of good jam and honey. Our staff members wanted to share some of their favorite comfort foods. I’m hungry just writing this…..
-Josie

Pam- “Ice cream. Any flavor.”
Melanie- “Cinnamon toast and hot cocoa.”
Joseph- “A grilled roast beef sandwich with sautéed mushrooms and provolone.”
Jen- “ Saang paneer.” (Indian cheese)
Barbara- “Bread pudding” - pictured above
Ryan- “Chocolate mousse”
Maya– “Sushi”

Risotto Revealed

Basic risotto is a delicious and comforting dish consisting of sautéed rice, wine, good stock, and fresh parmesan cheese. Beyond the basics, whatever vegetables or meats that you have available can be added. Risotto is just waiting for seasonal improvisation. Instead of zucchini, try asparagus tips. If you can’t find smoked salmon, you could use sautéed rock shrimp. The true keys to good risotto are quality of ingredients and technique. In her upcoming class on May 20th, award winning Chef Linda Carucci, reveals those secrets in an in depth “Risotto Workshop.” The class covers the basic Risotto Milanese, luxurious Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Risotto with Smoky Sausage and Clams, and Northwest Smoked Salmon and Dill. Everyone in the class will have the opportunity to prepare risotto themselves before sitting down to an afternoon repast of delicious dishes. With a few tips and techniques from Linda, you’ll never be intimidated by risotto again!
-Josie

Improving with Improvisation

Cooking is like jazz in many ways. It has its own rhythm, flow, and timing. They are both completely individual, subject to the composer’s personality and whim. Music and cooking can be meditative activities, practiced alone, or as social gatherings, with friends and family. What you get out of your music and cooking reflects what you put into it. Play and cook with love and enthusiasm and you will live well (and eat well too!) Innovation and inspiration come from within in both the kitchen in music. I think that improvisation though, is where cooking and jazz are most similar. Improvising on a whim makes whatever you are doing better; it makes it more individual, more unique, and fresh. And no matter how hard you try, most likely you’ll never do it the same way twice. Improvising is also a good way to customize recipes to you preferences. I like to substitute as many local ingredients in recipes as possible. Recipes that are easily adaptable are pastas, stir fries, and even risotto. As long as you are pleased with the final product, there’s no reason you can’t bend the rules a bit.
-Josie

What's Better than Bacon?

What’s better than bacon?Really, not many things are. But lately, I’ve loved Pancetta. Pancetta is an Italian form of bacon that is not smoked. It is pork belly that has been cured in salt, then spiced and dried for three months. Each part of Italy produces its own type. In our kitchen the other day, Chef Michele Knaus made a fantastic dish featuring local asparagus, sautéed with pancetta and pine nuts. The smell of the pancetta permeated the entire store, distracting me from my work and luring me to the back, where I happily sampled a plate of the bright green spears. They were lightly salted from the pancetta, with crispy bits of meat and crunchy pine nuts. The combination of textures and flavors was perfect and just goes to show you that the best ingredients and simple techniques are sometimes the most satisfying.
--Josie

Eating Green

Recently on epicurious.com, there was an article about progressive restaurants and their eco- friendly practices. The article pointed out that while you can’t control how a restaurant operates, you can choose where to eat. The same goes for stores, and even cooking schools. Portland is a great city to for those that want to be environmentally conscientious. Eco- friendly programs for recycling, composting, commuting and shopping are all fairly accessible.
I was excited to read about all of the restaurants and companies that are starting to think about the impact of their practices. Fortunately, it’s becoming easier to find “green” businesses. Portland is a great example of a city that is thinking “green.” And with the opening of the farmer’s market, fresh foods from small farms are that much more accessible. This weekend, we’ll be celebrating earth day by shopping at the farmer’s market. The menu sounds wonderful; herbs and lettuces are in season, as are asparagus, radishes, morel mushrooms and more. Our purchases will be part of the Oregon’s Spring Bounty Dinner with Chef Nancy Forrest on Sunday, April 22. Her seasonally inspired menu features Seared Scallops on local Baby Greens, a velvety Asparagus soup, Herb Crusted Halibut, and Painted Hills Skirt Steak.
To give you an idea about where our ingredients come from, I thought I’d mention a few of our favorite producers. It’s also a way for us to say thank you to all of the businesses that we rely on.
For hazelnuts, we like Freddy Guys Hazelnuts They have Oregon filberts, farm direct. (For personal snacking, I like the chocolate covered version).
Our beef is Painted Hills Natural Beef. A great local meat market, just up the street, is Viande Meats. The pancetta is excellent and the sausages are made daily. City Market, which houses Viande Meats, is also home to Newman’s Seafood. They have very fresh fish and carry sustainable seafood.
Williamette Valley Cheese Company produces farmstead specialty cheeses like gouda, jack, fontina and havarti.
With such a wealth of natural resources and conscientious purveyors, selecting local, organic and sustainable ingredients is easy. Eating well can be good for you, and for the earth too.
--Josie

Edible Accidents

Sometimes, the best discoveries in life come from “failures.” This is true for the kitchen too; an over baked cake can be transformed into a delicious trifle. The dry cake layers can be cubed, tossed with simple syrup or simply layered with custard and whipped cream. A magnificent dessert from a potential disaster. A chef friend of mine was hosting dinner for 10 at his home one evening. In his rush to get dinner prepared, he left a gallon of vanilla ice cream on the counter. Voila- instant sauce for his homemade shortcakes. Yorkshire pudding is a British specialty, in which, a batter, similar to that used for popovers, is poured into a shallow pan containing the fat from cooked roast beef, and cooked in the oven. Originally, the batter was placed in a pan beneath the roast to catch the drippings while it cooked.
Popovers can be sweet or savory. They are traditionally filled served with butter and jam, but can also replace gougere pastry in appetizers when filled with crab salad, or warm cheese. When I was playing with the recipe for basic popovers, it occurred to me to fill the warm puffs with fluffy scrambled eggs and goat cheese. I sprinkled the finished dish with chives and settled down to enjoy a delightful breakfast on a cold April morning.
--Josie

See Breakfast Popovers with Scrambled Eggs and Chevre

Speaking of Cheese …

I've just returned from Chicago where we attended the 29^th IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) annual conference. It was a wonderful event (more later) and I was delighted to meet Paula Lambert, past-president of the IACP and founder of the Mozzarella Company, a small cheese factory in Dallas. We have used her cheese cookbook for years and it's long been a favorite resource for the staff. Now we have her brand new book, Cheese, Glorious Cheese, to refer to.

Paula will come and teach at In Good Taste this summer (August) so look out for her class.

She has posted some of her delicious recipes on her website at http://www.mozzco.com/

- Barbara

The Glories of Cheese

Ah cheese…. Such a glorious ingredient. Perfect alone as a tasty nibble, or incorporated into recipes to elevate dishes from everyday to luxurious. It can transform plain bread into an oozing mouth watering sandwich, or simple pasta into a creamy gratin. The addition of cheese to vegetables convinces many children to take just one bite. As a topping, cheese is almost synonymous with pizza, one of the most popular foods in the world. Cheese gives names to cities, such as Roquefort and Epoisses. I had a French teacher once that had grown up in Roquefort. She waxed on about the many applications for the odiferous blue product, claiming its smell permeated the city and that eating it each day ensured longevity. People everywhere love cheese.
When I was growing up, there were only one or two artisan cheesemakers in the Pacific Northwest, and maybe 20 in the US. Now, there are over 300 specialty cheese makers across the country, with over two dozen in the NW. The Willamette Valley is one of the prime dairy regions in the country. While making award winning cheese may take years of study and practice, making basic cheese isn’t hard at all. With basic instruction and a simple technique, anyone can make delicious, fresh milk cheese at home. You don’t even need fancy equipment.
Since I love cheese so much (and in pretty much any form), I recently signed up for Michele Knaus’ Hands on Class on Artisan Cheesemaking. This coming Wednesday, April 18th, Michele will lead a class on making your own cheese. The class will cover ricotta, mozzarella, and mascarpone. At the end of the class, we’ll feast on our masterpieces, and even get to take some home. What a way to impress your family! I can’t wait. To inspire you to take the class and make your own cheese, I’m adding some of my favorite recipes using cheese. Basic pasta is coated in a simple sauce of creamy ricotta and spring vegetables. You can change the vegetables depending on the season and your preferences. Make your own ricotta using locally produced milk, buy seasonal vegetables from the farmer’s market, and pasta from Pastaworks, and you’ve met your Eat Local Challenge and created a beautiful meal!
-Josie
Farfalle with Baby Spinach, Ricotta and Walnuts

Raise Your Glass to Cooking with Beer

Last weekend was busy for Portland foodies. The farmer's market opened on Saturday, and the 13th Annual Spring Beer and Wine Fest took place Friday and Saturday at the Oregon Convention Center. Portlanders had a chance to mingle with artisan brewers, vintners, distillers, and cheese makers, listen to great music from local bands, and eat great food. The cheese selection was impressive, with products from local vendors like Willamette Valley Cheese Company. Forty different brewers, each with two varieties of beer, were on hand to offer samples and pairing advice.
There were lots of tips about types of food to pair beer with, but I was really thinking about types of food made with beer. With the exception of beer bread, which I make frequently to go with hearty soups, I don't use beer in my food very often. It's a great ingredient that adds a lot of flavor dimensions, plus, with so many great brews to choose from in Oregon, the possibilities for use are endless.
Author and culinary instructor Sheila Kaufman will be teaching a class on Cooking with Beer at In Good Taste on June 12. Her class on beer sounds like the perfect way to spend a summer evening- sip artisan beers, snack on delicious food, learn about cooking with beer....the thought itself warms me up. The menu for the class offers 8 different dishes, all of which features beer as a star ingredient. From Beer Boiled Shrimp to a Guinness Stout cake, Sheila will share tips on incorporating beer in your food, as well as in your menu. I hope to raise my glass with you in celebration of cooking with beer this summer!
-Josie

Eat Local Update

The Eat Local Challenge just got easier for Portlanders- the Portland Farmers market opened this last Saturday in the park blocks. The sun peeked through the clouds and the rain held off just long enough for the crowds to gather and marvel at spring’s newest developments. There were fiddlehead ferns, asparagus, morel mushrooms, radishes, arugula, herbs, broccoli, spring onions and more. In addition to all of the fresh produce and raw materials, including delicious goat cheese and honey, there were vendors selling warm, crusty bread, yummy burritos, pastries and chocolates. Despite the slight chill in the air, the atmosphere was happy and festive- everyone was excited for the start to the spring season of open air shopping. Walking around the market place, my head filled with ideas as fast as my basket did. Recipes for creamy soups showcasing wild mushrooms and crunchy toast from the local bakeries, or a warming pasta with broccoli and goat cheese…. The best part about all of the goods available at the farmer’s market is that I can happily indulge, knowing that it all came from within 100 miles of my house.
--Josie

Fenouil Spring Dinner at In Good Taste

The French call April 1 “Poisson d’Avril”, or April fish. French children sometimes tape a picture of a fish on the back of their schoolmates, crying out, “poisson d’avril” when the prank is discovered.

I don’t usually think anything of April 1st, but this year, I was reminiscing fondly of the succulent halibut that I enjoyed during the Fenouil Spring Dinner Menu with Pascal Chureau. Pascal’s upscale brasserie, Fenouil, has a fantastic menu that is clearly influenced by his French and Moroccan heritage; it features the best of both cuisines. On Friday, March 30th, Pascal taught a fabulous Hands on class featuring spring ingredients and classic French flavors. The class used seasonal, organic ingredients and showcased the best products from local area producers and farmers.

As we entered the store, ready to begin our “lessons” for the evening, we were greeted warmly with sparkling wine and friendly servers. Barbara gave a wonderful introduction, and then Pascal began instruction. He started with a thorough introduction of the recipes, techniques, and ingredients we would be using. After we were comfortable with our tasks, the group of students divided up the recipes and set to work.

The atmosphere was lively and fun, filled with laughter and happy chatter. Pascal circled around the room, helping out wherever he was needed and offering advice. He was assisted by Cheryl, one of the wonderful chefs at In Good Taste. Both of them provided everything we needed and made the cooking process seem effortless. Because of the small class sizes at In Good Taste, all of the classes are very intimate. Guests get to know one another, interact with the chef, and contribute to each recipe. I was able to assist in the preparation of the fragrant Steamed Clams with Pernod and Grilled Baguette, the Watercress Salad with Goat Cheese and Truffled Croutons, as well as the Grilled Halibut with Morel Mushroom Hollandaise and Bacon and Asparagus Fricassee. The spectacular Tarte Tatin that was served for dessert with a hard cider crème fraiche was also prepared in class, but I opted just to watch. Cheryl and Pascal made sure that everyone was enjoying themselves and learning, without feeling overwhelmed or burdened.
When the meal was well on its way to being served, the guests had the opportunity to relax for a few minutes, shop for gastronomic treasures, sip wine, and chat with Pascal. The aromas filling the store were mouthwatering- I couldn't wait to sample our masterpieces!

Servers poured a lovely white wine and began to serve our first course- the salad. The goat cheese had been warmed in the oven and oozed over the salad greens, creating an unctuous sauce that coated my mouth. The happy chatter ceased as everyone began to eat. It was replaced with sighs of pleasure and little exclamations. “Oh my gosh! That is so good!” “Wow!”
While we ate, Pascal finished the clams. Our plates were cleared and replaced with steaming bowls of aromatic broth, redolent of Pernod. While I would have been happy to stop there, it only got better.

They say that hunger is the best sauce. I’m pretty sure that the guests at In Good Taste that night would argue that Pascal’s Morel Mushroom Hollandaise is better. He served the exceptional sauce over a perfectly cooked halibut steak. The fish was moist and juicy- a perfect foil for the delectable sauce. It was accompanied by an asparagus and fingerling potato fricassee with smoked bacon. The smoky flavor gently permeated the vegetables without being overpowering. (Everything really is better with bacon.)

Finally, when we thought that nothing would top the halibut, there was the Tarte Tatin. Crispy pastry filled with sautéed apples in a light caramel sauce was smothered in pillows of hard cider crème fraiche.

Once all of the plates had been cleared, the guests remained at the cozy oak table, sipping coffee and enjoying the company of the chef. All in all, it was an evening of opulence, education, and excellence.
--Josie

In Season, and with Sake!

At work the other day, I found myself distracted by the new cookbook by Nobu Matsuhisa, “Nobu West.” The phenomenal book provides a thorough exploration of modern Japanese cuisine. The photographs and recipes reminded me of the upcoming Kaiseki dinner with David Padberg.
David, who is the chef de cuisine at Park Kitchen, recently returned from Japan where he studied traditional Japanese cooking. Since his return, David has hosted several traditional Japanese meals. His dinners are a great opportunity to learn about Japanese culture and experience Japanese ceremony, food and sake first-hand.
Japanese and Pacific Northwest Cuisine share many things; simplicity, ingredients, and a focus on seasonal ingredients. In particular, “Kaiseki” dinners are known for their delicate presentation and seasonal focus. David’s creative menus reflect the harmonious blend of cooking styles that he has developed through his travels. Dishes like Tuna Tataki with Asparagus and Duck Breast with Sesame and Spinach reflect both Japan and the Pacific NW. I'm so excited to try learn more about this traditional food, and to enjoy some of the dishes (complete with sake pairings!).
There is a Japanese proverb-“if you can capture the season on a plate, then you are the master.” Truly, David has mastered the art of presentation and seasonal cuisine ; let him help you become a master too, on Sunday, April 15th at 6:30 pm.
-- Josie

Give Thai a Try

My friend Emily loves Thai and Vietnamese food. Summer rolls, pad Thai, sugarcane shrimp and Thai Iced tea are her favorite foods. She orders them, anxiously awaiting their arrival, and watches them appear at her side complete with elaborate garnishes sweet and spicy dipping sauces. Yet she never makes these dishes at home. Anytime we get together for dinner, she always requests that I make her Vietnamese food. I asked her why; “Because it’s too hard. There are too many ingredients and I don’t really understand them.” This from someone who has almost as many cookbooks as I do! As I reflected on her puzzling response, it occurred to me that she probably wasn’t the only cook to be intimidated by SE Asian cuisine. It’s true- there are a lot of ingredients, and they are foreign to most Americans.
At In Good Taste this Saturday, April 7th, Chef Robert Carmack will be visiting all the way from his home in Sydney, Australia to teach a class on Authentic Thai and Vietnamese cooking. The class will begin with fundamentals like making condiments and curry pastes. There is a stellar menu featuring Spicy Noodles with Prawns and Red Curry Chicken with Sticky Rice. Before the class, there is an optional tour to an Asian market, where students will get a complete store tour, shopping guide and a hands on product tasting. The first step to authentic SE Asian cuisine is authentic ingredients, and where better to learn about them than at an Asian market?
Robert Carmack is a seasoned traveler and cooking instructor. In addition to running frequent tours to Thailand, Vietnam and Burma (see www.globetrottinggourmet.com), he recently published two books. Through his years of experience, Robert has learned how to demystify Thai and Vietnamese ingredients, techniques, and recipes. In his class, he provides an in depth glossary of ingredients, including their origins, tips on how to use them, and shopping information. A comprehensive overview of each cuisine and diet, with cultural explanations is also explained. Chef Carmack even offers advice for using traditional equipment, like a fire pot, as well as potential alternatives so that you don’t have to stock a full Thai kitchen to make good Thai food.
“Thai and Vietnamese Cooking” with Robert Carmack is the chance to learn quick, easy, delicious recipes that you can make at home. Armed with the information provided by Chef Carmack, Emily will never have to order take out again, and I can finally rest.

-Josie

A Modern Love Story

As if he wasn’t interesting enough already, Chef Joseph Carey has another chapter to add to his life story. After living all over the United States, running a professional cooking school in Memphis, and cooking for celebrities like Tom Cruise, he recently moved to the Portland area. In what seems to be fairy tale, Joseph Carey reconnected with his high school sweetheart, Alice. Forty-two years ago, Joseph and Alice dated while attending high school in the Midwest. Although they were not in the same class at school, they continued their relationship on to their separate colleges, until Joseph went to war. Time passed, and neither of them returned to their Midwest hometown. Each developed new friends and interests, and moved on.
But life has a funny way of leading you where it wants you to go. In 2000, it led Joseph Carey to a small art gallery in Amity, Oregon. The art gallery’s webpage featured a work of art called “Invention of Music; Rattle, Kithera, Handpipe” created by Alice.
A Google search for the word “kithera” to complete a crossword puzzle yielded a much greater treasure- a chance to meet an old friend. Joseph contacted the art gallery and eventually Alice, and after emails and phone calls, the two finally met again. As in fairytales, the relationship bloomed again and Joseph made the decision that time he wouldn’t let Alice go. Just two weeks ago, Chef Carey transported his wealth of knowledge and years of experience to Portland.
He’ll begin this new chapter with a four week series of classes at In Good Taste on the fundamentals of cooking. The classes will cover the basic cooking techniques, and will explain how to build a repertoire of recipes off of just one method. Each Hands on class will provide thorough instruction, as well as a delicious meal. Highlights from the various menus include Pan Seared Scallops with a Ginger Buerre Blanc, Blanquette de Veau, Baked Alaska, Leg of Local Spring Lamb, and Crème caramel. If you’ve ever wanted to understand the basics of cooking and learn to cook without a book, this is the series for you. Students have the option of taking any of the classes, or the entire series. Those that take the entire series will receive the gift of a copy of Chef Carey’s new book, “Chef on Fire.”
Get fired up for the classses with Chef Carey at his book signing, this Sunday, April 8th at In Good Taste. The event begins at 12:00 pm.

In Good Taste
231 NW 11th
(503) 248-2015

-Josie

Spring Desserts

Spring desserts….. lemon always seems to fit the menu. Berries signal summer, pears suggest fall, and cranberries are a sign of winter. Lemon desserts are bright and tangy, and take advantage of the season’s best citrus. Every year around Easter, my grandmother makes her famous Coconut Cake with Fluffy White Frosting and Lemon Cheese Filling. It’s a tradition in the family that we all look forward to. As much as I love her cake, I was looking for something a little bit different and wanted to start my own edible Easter traditions. I knew I wanted to stay with the lemon flavor, but didn’t want to make the 7 minute frosting with coconut. In the end, I made a luscious lemon cake with a tangy and sweet glaze that was just enough, without being overpowering. I started with her basic yellow cake recipe, and added lemon juice. Instead of the lemon cheese filling and coconut frosting, I filled the cake with pillowy whipped cream. I used a simple powdered sugar glaze that added a bit of crispness once it dried. As soon as I bit into the crunchy glaze, it melted in my mouth and gave way to the pleasant lemony flavor.

Recipe - Luscious Lemon Layer Cake

-Josie